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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 30, 2019, 3:43 am 
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This part will bolt to the diff on the ring gear holes. It's going to be part of my "cush" drive. The sprocket will have some pie shaped holes and I'll cast some rubber bushing for it. I'm planning on putting plates and a ring of UHMW plastic for everything to slide on.


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cush_drive_base1.jpg
cush_drive_base1.jpg [ 184.29 KiB | Viewed 238 times ]
cush_drive_base2.jpg
cush_drive_base2.jpg [ 219.12 KiB | Viewed 238 times ]

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PostPosted: November 30, 2019, 1:13 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
You have a very nice build, and a very interesting one too.

What is the material in the machined part in photo cush_drive_base1 above. It looks like aluminum most of the time, but steel other times.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 30, 2019, 10:08 pm 
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Yup, aluminum. Here's a render without the outer cover plate or the outer UHMW plate.


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cush_drive_03.jpg
cush_drive_03.jpg [ 76.5 KiB | Viewed 206 times ]

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PostPosted: December 1, 2019, 6:39 am 
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Looks good. That must have taken a few days! I don't know if it is finished but you may not want to take any more material out of the base. If the bottom plate is too thin, the blocks can act as a lever and crack out of the base.

Have you decided on the durometer? Maybe an additive to prevent splitting/cracking of the inserts?

You can re add the lost pics by finding the same image name and leave or remove the old pic id with the number of views.

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PostPosted: December 2, 2019, 2:07 am 
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The base thickness is about .200" where the lugs come out. I'll also have another 1/8" plate on the other side bolting into those lugs. Hopefully it'll have an ok fatigue life. I should have maybe finished that bottom corner with a BEM (radius).

And the milling wasn't as bad as I thought, a lot of material removal. 1/4" cutter, .070" dp, around 30 IPM. Although the machine did make some interesting new noises! Those high speed machining videos make me so jelly!

I'll use the rest of the urethane I used for the arm bushings and motor mounts. I think it was a 70. Once cured it is very tough. I have a little bit of an interference fit on the rubber parts, it seemed like the right thing to do (more engineering jargon).

I'll see if I can figure out how to re-add my old pics, without deleting the view count.

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PostPosted: December 5, 2019, 4:25 am 
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Diff getting there.

Motor is a 2004, harness is a 2006 or 2007. Silly engineers decided to flip the connectors on the VSS. (vehicle speed sensor.)

Anybody got any clue as to the bare minimum of wiring I need to get it running right?

It's got an exhaust servo that operates a plate valve, which I don't have.
There's an intake solenoid, and maybe one other air intake valve.

Ideally I don't think I want any of that unless it needs it to run correctly.

The stuff I would assume I need is the MAP (manifold air pressure), CAM position sensor, Crank position sensor and air temp in the airbox.


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diff_getting_there.jpg
diff_getting_there.jpg [ 188.62 KiB | Viewed 99 times ]
VSS.jpg
VSS.jpg [ 205.48 KiB | Viewed 99 times ]

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PostPosted: December 7, 2019, 3:03 am 
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On a whim I stopped at the local parts/paint store and they sold me this for priming:

nason Ful-Poxy 491-16.

I cleaned up a couple arms and went for it. I have a little gravity feed paint gun with 1.0mm tip, the store recommended 1.5, but oh well, it seems to have worked.


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arm_primer1.jpg
arm_primer1.jpg [ 193.52 KiB | Viewed 36 times ]

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