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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 30, 2020, 11:27 pm 
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Ah. That's a good idea. That might have worked in my case. I could get the edges up, so I might have been able to work water in from the edges. The upside of this experiment is I've increased my claw hammer skillz by a factor of 3 or 4. There was also an electric chainsaw involved.

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PostPosted: September 16, 2020, 9:59 pm 
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Well, now it's a party! I finally plunked down for tires. It looks sooo much better like this. It's almost done right? :lol:


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F1000_Sept_20_A.jpg
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F1000_Sept_20_B.jpg
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F1000_Sept_20_C.jpg
F1000_Sept_20_C.jpg [ 276.43 KiB | Viewed 1892 times ]

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PostPosted: September 17, 2020, 9:18 am 
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Almost!
Your project makes me want to get back to mine. I do need to fix the broken lumps in the garage first though. Soon.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2020, 7:55 pm 
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Very cool!

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: September 19, 2020, 12:50 am 
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This is awesome motivation, looks great!!!!


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PostPosted: December 13, 2020, 7:54 am 
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Location: Malmö Sweden
Any updates on this build ?


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PostPosted: December 14, 2020, 3:58 am 
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Unfortunately not much, some medical issues with an elderly relative have my free time locked up. Going to be slow progress for awhile.

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PostPosted: February 18, 2021, 12:10 am 
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No actual progress, I just dusted some snow off of it.


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PostPosted: March 10, 2021, 12:13 am 
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Made some "rotisserie" attachments front and rear. Should have done that earlier. But it should make finishing up welding easier. It's a bit top heavy, when I remove everything hopefully it will will rotate freely.

Also I'm changing course on the rear axles. I was originally planning to use Chevy Colorado cv axles and try to lengthen the axle. Disassembling them was tough and I've heard that welded axles don't hold up well. So I started looking into the "VW" type of axles. I plan to modify the Colorado inner and outer axles to be "stub flanged axles". I've cut the outers down and had success turning them true. Then I'll need to make the "flange" part with 6 mounting holes and weld those to the cut down axle stubs.

One upside of trying it this way is I can get the same length axle to work (despite the offset diff) on both sides by leaving one of the diff outdrive cups long. So that satisfies my symmetric OCD ;)


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vw_cv_option.jpg
vw_cv_option.jpg [ 217.25 KiB | Viewed 625 times ]

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PostPosted: March 12, 2021, 6:10 pm 
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Johnsinski wrote:
That also led me to the ugly details of how exactly am I going to get reverse in this? I had bought another CBR1000RR starter motor and had determined that the spline on it was actually a mod 1 gear. So I got to looking for a mod 1 spur in a 50 to 60 tooth but they were all pretty expensive and then I had the brilliant idea of just getting the starter shaft from, say, a CBR1000RR! 15 bucks shipped, 60 tooth, score!

My thought was to put a small 8 or 10 tooth sprocket on that shaft and that would give some good low gearing, about 10 MPH max freeload speed as near as I can guess. I tried to spin the starter up to figure out how fast it is, couldn't find my tach, so I tried to slow motion capture it and it seems to be about 7000 RPM at 12v.

I was trying to think of a good, not overly complicated way to engage the sprocket/motor assembly with the chain. Either a straight slide (downish) or rotation would be fine, but I kind of want it to "lock out" like a toggle, so whatever mechanism I use to move it isn't going to see the force (try to disengage) trying to spread the sprocket and chain. (english 101 fail)


The starter motor has another gear between it and the gear you have to reduce speed and provide more torque to turn the cbr1000 over without stalling and overheating the starter. You could use an automotive ring gear removed from a used flywheel or flex plate, to fit your own light ring that bolts to the sprocket but is spaced away an inch or so (depends on the starter nose design you use). The ring gear is heated to slip on then cooled to a interference fit but you can also tack a few spots or drill and add small roll pins along the mating line so it can't slip. Then all you need is a button control versus linkage or cables with springs. Just another consideration. Seat looks great.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2021, 4:14 am 
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I decided to look into aluminum sheet to cover the floor and lower sides. I bought a 4x8x.125 sheet locally. I assume I want to bond it to the frame as well as rivet or screw it so it's mechanically fastened.

I think it's probably done with rivets normally. I have this urge to use 10/24 cap (I meant button) head screws. I did tap one hole in the bottom of the frame just to test if it might work. I think with loctite the bolt should stay but button heads will stick up a bit, I suppose I could use countersunk bolts and get them close to flat.

Alternate methods welcome.


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floor.jpg
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Last edited by Johnsinski on March 23, 2021, 1:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: March 23, 2021, 7:45 am 
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Are you using 16ga tubes? I don't like the idea myself because you would have slightly less than 1-1/2 threads in the steel. That is, if you can start the the tap and get a good thread cut at the start of each hole. Somewhere in the back of my mind I am thinking 3 threads minimum. Switching to 10-32 screws would still get you only ~2 threads penetration. Than I would ask, if the bonding material is doing its job, it would prevent you from ever removing the floor in the future. If it doesn't, then I don't think the bonding material is doing what you hope it to do.

IMO rivets are the best solution for an aluminum floor. And yes, they can be removed almost as easily as screws.

If you insist on going with screws, you might consider using button head cap screws. Their heads don't stick out as far as traditional cap screws.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2021, 8:06 am 
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Chuck beat me to it.

6061 sheet? Don’t bond if you ever want to take it back apart again. The strongest sealer I would consider is loctite urethane roofing mastic. There is not sufficient wall thickness in the tube for the #10 threads but you could use well nuts and silicone for easy removal later.

For riveting, use clecos to keep everything aligned while you drill all the holes, remove and debur, paint the frame, then caulk seam sealer, roofing mastic, silicone, etc over the holes and place the panel with the captive, steel stem rivets in all the holes, then start popping from the center out in a star pattern like tightening a head gasket.

If you do not have sealing rivets, wipe some sealer into the stem holes, then come back later and use acetone on a rag to wipe the surfaces for cleanup.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2021, 1:10 pm 
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Do you just drill out the rivet to remove it? Say I use a 1/4" rivet, would I use a slightly smaller drill to remove it?

Don't you end up with rivet remnants clunking around in the frame?

I'm not sure why I'd ever want to remove it.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2021, 1:50 pm 
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Use a larger diameter drill as it originally was, maybe 2-3x. You are just trying to separate the rivet head from the shaft. Stop drilling when the head pops off. There will be little to no damage to the aluminum. Certainly nothing that would prevent you from using the floor again.

Yes, the ends will be left in the frame. If you think you will hear them rattling around, wait a minute while I stop laughing......... :cheers:

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