LocostUSA.com

The ECU is an issue. That thing is wired into the whole system. Think Ford F350 PowerStroke 6.4 than 7.3. Torque limited in the first two gears, traction control, two drive modes all linked together into the engine ECU.

Maybe the better choice would be the non-DCT version. The power numbers seem perfect for a locost. 145 hp/81 lb-ft shaft drive (although on the wrong side). Seems like a nice narrow package to get the same results as an FJR1300 engine. (20 ft lb more torque but at a higher RPM and inline 4 width shaft still on the wrong side)

The more I look at building a BEC, and I am not looking for a track day animal but something a bit more useful, I keep getting pointed at the GL1500/1800 motors with the reverse or a K-series BMW.

The nice thing about the BMW is there are race series with that engine in it. So clutch and bellhousing arrangements are available. (BMWs have a separate clutch and transmission unlike a normal bike engine)

Or I could go completely crazy and rear mount a V-twin sideways and build a box where the engine goes for a frunk.

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Engineer: noun en·gi·neer \ˌen-jə-ˈnir\ - Someone who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data provided by those of questionable knowledge. (See also: wizard, magician, sorcerer, witch, miracle worker)

Don't some of the GoldWings also have a reverse gear? They won't be the screaming lightweight Hyabusa builds for sure, but...

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

I may be wrong on this (and probably am) but I always thought Bikes with with drive shafts on the left rotate the wrong way for a normal diff. Yes you can flip the diff but you run into oiling issues and noise. Bikes with the drive shaft on the right rotate the proper direction to use a standard diff. Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

GL1500's and 1800's have reverses that run off the starter. (with the exception of the cost down Interstate model) I gives you 0.5 mph reverse. Not fast but hey it is better than nothing.

The Valkyrie is a performance version of the GL1500 but the reverse has been removed. Swapping the heads and intake from a Valkyrie to a GL1500 gives you reverse and the bump in HP.

Although none of it will come close to the big bore sportbike powered cars (GSX1300R, ZX14, R1 ect) it gives a nice compact package that eliminates alot of issues with the build.



I was thinking about this today. The issue with flipping a diff is running the wrong side of the hypoid gear cut. Makes lots of noise.

So my solution would be the Front diff out of a 4 runner/Tacoma or less of an option the front diff out of a Lexus IS250 or Infiniti G35/37x.

All are plenty available new or used/Junkyard cheap (ebay right now for less than $300.)

None are controlling the awd (standard transfer cases so nothing to weld up or bolt together), all are semetrical in the axle stub area and are not special order parts anywhere.

The toyota has a bonus of a plethora of aftermarket gear sets and traction aids (air lockers, trac-loc, ect.)

Seems like a solution.

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Engineer: noun en·gi·neer \ˌen-jə-ˈnir\ - Someone who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data provided by those of questionable knowledge. (See also: wizard, magician, sorcerer, witch, miracle worker)

Solution to the torque problem: Triumph Rocket 3 engine.

They've been around for awhile and a few years ago there were quite a few wrecked ones (some drivable) available from the online wreckers.

And IMO they sound much nicer than a 4 banger.

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Noah

Hey, this is my first post on the site. Been through the thread, and didnt notice mention of the W model GSX-R1100. I happen to have a complete 1994 liquid cooled 1100 here that runs excellent. Been considering a build and since I already have a donor engine I was wondering if anyone had experience with using this particular engine?

Rated at 155HP so in the realm of a first gen R1, and it makes more torque at a lower RPM as well. I realise the GSXR engine is quite a bit heavier but not enough to be an issue. Any need to baffle the pan????

As mentioned in another thread, the "Backward" shaft drive is not a serious issue if you go REAR engine.
Just use a modified 4Runner front axle center section.
Probably most likely to apply to cars originally intended for VW bug power but with many bike engines light weight they should work fine.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

I'm pretty set on having an FJR1300.
Several on feeBay but nothing local.
This will be unusual in that it is going to be REAR mounted.
If it works well I know some other cars that may get similar engines.

Need some details from those who know.
Oiling mods needed?
How many miles are too many to buy the engine?
Most of the decently priced engines seem to be 04 - 06, newer are double the cost.
Of course every engine I find is stripped, no intake, exhaust, ECU, wire harness, gauges.
Starter, alternator, and clutch may or may not have been removed.
Am I missing anything from my list above that I will need?

'Busa engines get sold as kits but FJR's are not recognized as suitable for BEC conversions by the salvage yards.
So by the time I get a complete set cost is about double.
Too bad all the on-line bike salvage operations seem to be scams.
Even if the bike "Sells" for reasonable money their "Registration" and sales fee's are a rip-off.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

Surely the solution to the torque problem (and the reverse, and the short gearing) is to use a car engine?

It seems strange to find people saying that they want to base their selection of a bike engine on a desire to see something that is more useful than a high revving track special... that's what bike engines do - if you don't like it, save yourself a whole lot of grief and used a car engine.