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A Arm intrusion. Actually you are correct on the intrusion. I do plan to put a cross bar to minimize the issue of spearing my feet!

As far as the rear length of the car I wanted 100" wheel base. Often on rear engined cars they bias too much rearward on weight. My push is to have more 50 / 50 weight bias therefore the longer rear section.

The under body will have a diffuser starting around the roll bar and exploit the rules that I'm building the car to.

The shock location is a little up for debate on its performance..... this will be a wait and see. In race mode the wheel travel will be only 1.25"

You make some good points, I wanted to keep the rear frame a little longer to support the rear wing etc. There is a ton of loading on the element I'm using It has a deep cord length so I want the frame to take the load not the body.
Also mounting the diff forward is keeping weight bias forward where I want it. Honestly there is very little weight aft of the differential.
It was also imperative to keep the drive shafts at an angle to the wheels as when they are straight on they develop a wicked vibration.

More to follow... been taking a week off the project to stop me from burning out.
Linz

I'm sure you're aware, but there is an easy way to address this with your build. Since the arms are rigid and the distance between the front and rear mounts will never change, you can add a tie-bar directly to base mounting points of the the a-arms themselves. In the event of a mounting point failure, that bar would collide with chassis bracing bars and should keep the a-arm out of the passenger area. Adding extra vertical bars near the suspension mounting points specifically for the a-arm tie-bars to collide into takes that protection a step further.

As I said before, great looking build.

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.. in the world

Just wanted to say beautiful work on that car. Heck I'd use a Busa these days, I'd never come close to what you have quality wise. So are you using all the Suzuki injection computer and all that or a aftermarket like a megasquirt? This thing will be off the hook turbo'ed or supercharged even without it, it should scream bloody murder. Excellent work man!

Regards,

Don

thank you... yes plan to use all stock Busa ECU wiring etc. I plan on reflashing the ECU as I have a Lamda that hooks up to my data acquisition system. I have a super charger for it, but I think I'll hold off and run the hot rod head I have that is 5 axis cnc ported with cams. I will eventually as the pocket book allows, doing a big bore kit for it. Here are a few more pics/
Cheers
Linz

Some pics of the Aero Tunnels

That is totally insane. I like it. Very nice work.

Holy damn! your build is beautiful and you're in town!

To everyone on the ride heights way earlier in the thread. I'm running 2-2.125" front with the sump about 5/8" lower and I've yet to bottom ANYWHERE and that includes a lot of suspension travel on bumpy autox courses. with the amount of spring you'll be running to keep your aero working I don't think you'll run into any issues. If you aren't using your skid plates you're not low enough, right?

your uprights look very nice, especially with the integrated camber shims and it looks like you're using the same on all corners? very nice for spares

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My Build thread: F20C powered Autox & track toy

Buy my car! - F20C Race car

Yes the uprights are the same for all corners. Castor is controlled by spacers where the lower A arm attaches.
Camber is controlled by shims where the camber plate.
Bearings are late model VW.

I am enjoying your build and appreciate you sharing with the community.

I'm curious. Where can I buy those wheels? I've searched the Interwebs and so far have not found anyplace. I realize these are race wheels, but I have not yet decided on a street or a race build.

Thanks!

Thanks to the compliments. The wheels are OZ center locks. 8" front 10" Rears. The prob is going to be getting road rubber.
Hoosier make a DOT R6 radial (which is on my car) To call them DOT is a stretch as there is no cross tread. That said if you need to you can sype in some grooves with a hot knife. Avon does offer a road tire with a proper DOT tread in these sizes, but you're gonna pay for them.

Check out the follow web site. They come up for sale often at very reasonable prices. Both my sets have been $600 and $800, the later with a set of rain tires already mounted. I believe the off sets are 5.5" front and 6" Rear.... don't quote me on that though.

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=66

Hope this helps.... let me know if you need more assistance.
Cheers
Linz

Tunnel and floor bonded together.

Have you found zero-droop suspension to work? Or I suspect, are its short-comings overridden by the benefits of tunnels?

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Well that is a draw back for the road most definitely. For the track is a complete moot point as the aero under body will define the car's ride height. There is a little droop built in on my suspension.... but for the road it certainly is a compromise.

On goes the floor.... having the floor cut in two pieces and all mounting holes cut with a laser sure makes assembly easy!