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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 9, 2013, 6:55 pm 
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Joined: October 21, 2010, 2:01 am
Posts: 140
Location: Portland Oregon
Here is my build that I have been working at for a month or two.
Cheers
Linz


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Last edited by kiwimanz on May 23, 2013, 1:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 9, 2013, 9:46 pm 
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Location: Glendale AZ
Cool! Gotsom FF in it and looks like maybe a bike motor? Well done! :cheers:

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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 10, 2013, 2:11 am 
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Location: Portland Oregon
Going with a built 05 Busa. 1397cc kit, ported head with cams. I do have a super charger for it, but I think I will see how it goes with out it.
I am setting it up with Pro Shift paddle shifter assm. Auto blip on down shifts etc. The car will also be raced so some compromises must happen to reduce the ride height from 3" for road use, to 1.5" for track. Still working on that part.
The car now has the steering rack, shaft and wheel installed with pedal assm.

More pics to follow
Cheers
Linz


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 10, 2013, 2:14 am 
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Joined: October 21, 2010, 2:01 am
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Location: Portland Oregon
more pics


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 10, 2013, 5:33 am 
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Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
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Location: Oregon, usually
kiwimanz wrote:
The car will also be raced so some compromises must happen to reduce the ride height from 3" for road use, to 1.5" for track.
Easiest way would be to select street tires that are 3" greater diameter than your racing tires (I'm presuming you'll have different wheels for different uses).

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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 10, 2013, 10:42 am 
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Location: Glendale AZ
More photos!!!!
Some of the uprights,front and rear?
Who's diff? :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 10, 2013, 6:45 pm 
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Joined: September 3, 2012, 10:48 pm
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Location: Hamden CT.
you will be hating your car if you plan on running 1.5 inch of ground hight . my F1000 and my D-sports cars run more than that at 2.25 .
i tried running them at 1.75 and the cars bottom all the time every were . because of the suspenion travel being 3" then with stadic ride hight bring it to 2.75 then with balancing out the car it dropped it to the 2.25 .

you have to remember to low is to slow ! there is the balance of wanting to use the most of all your suspension travel and not bottoming out the car that will put you into a spin . then you have aero down force that will push the car even lower to the track .
in many cases it's about .25 " so if you do that and your running any wings your only going to have 1.25 of ground clearance .

then many will try to up there spring rates as to not have the car bottom . as you know that does not work because you have to use the springs match to the running weight of the car . in my cars i have deferent set but they start at 250 and top out at 325 with each dampener valved to each spring rate .

at the end of the day you will bottom the car and put your self into a spin .


there is also one other thing to think about and that is the tires you want to use for the track .
i tried running the A and R 6's for just track days . one car being 803 lbs and the other at 926LBS they could not build any heat at all . they need to be at 200 degress to work any thing less than say 160 and it's like driving on ice i tried lowering the pressure down to 17 front and 18 rears and still no good the out side and inside temps were still only 139 at it hottest and the centers were only at 124 and it was still like driving on ice . that was with the A6's the R6's were even worse . when i talked to kevin at hoosier he said there is no way to make them work they are a tire made for cars over 1900 LBS . i ended up running just for track days the R35A's and i have used them on the car for two years and 17 two day events now and they still have life in them . the tires i use for wheel to wheel racing is a hole other matter they are so sort i only get two events out of them .

just some thing to think about with very light weight cars .


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 11, 2013, 12:46 am 
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Joined: March 26, 2012, 1:53 am
Posts: 227
Location: Mountain View, CA
very nice

are you going to add braces to the roll bar so it doesn't just fold over front/backwards?

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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 11, 2013, 2:08 am 
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Joined: October 21, 2010, 2:01 am
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Location: Portland Oregon
I have been running a full Aero D Sport for a number of years so Im very familiar with ride height etc.
Bear in mind when the car goes to the track it will be running Hoosier R25 slicks. You may want to try lower tire pressure to get your R6's to bite. We run 12 / 13 lbs front and rear! This car will be a full length tunnel car with diffuser and front wing/ diffuser.
Running some early CFD's places the car with more than 1800lbs of down force at 150mph.
The ride heights you are running would not allow any under body aero to serve the purpose it was designed for.



962porsche wrote:
you will be hating your car if you plan on running 1.5 inch of ground hight . my F1000 and my D-sports cars run more than that at 2.25 .
i tried running them at 1.75 and the cars bottom all the time every were . because of the suspenion travel being 3" then with stadic ride hight bring it to 2.75 then with balancing out the car it dropped it to the 2.25 .

you have to remember to low is to slow ! there is the balance of wanting to use the most of all your suspension travel and not bottoming out the car that will put you into a spin . then you have aero down force that will push the car even lower to the track .
in many cases it's about .25 " so if you do that and your running any wings your only going to have 1.25 of ground clearance .

then many will try to up there spring rates as to not have the car bottom . as you know that does not work because you have to use the springs match to the running weight of the car . in my cars i have deferent set but they start at 250 and top out at 325 with each dampener valved to each spring rate .

at the end of the day you will bottom the car and put your self into a spin .


there is also one other thing to think about and that is the tires you want to use for the track .
i tried running the A and R 6's for just track days . one car being 803 lbs and the other at 926LBS they could not build any heat at all . they need to be at 200 degress to work any thing less than say 160 and it's like driving on ice i tried lowering the pressure down to 17 front and 18 rears and still no good the out side and inside temps were still only 139 at it hottest and the centers were only at 124 and it was still like driving on ice . that was with the A6's the R6's were even worse . when i talked to kevin at hoosier he said there is no way to make them work they are a tire made for cars over 1900 LBS . i ended up running just for track days the R35A's and i have used them on the car for two years and 17 two day events now and they still have life in them . the tires i use for wheel to wheel racing is a hole other matter they are so sort i only get two events out of them .

just some thing to think about with very light weight cars .


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 11, 2013, 2:09 am 
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Joined: October 21, 2010, 2:01 am
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Location: Portland Oregon
Yes of course, I have purposely left them off till I sort out their final position


NoahKatz wrote:
very nice

are you going to add braces to the roll bar so it doesn't just fold over front/backwards?


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 11, 2013, 2:34 am 
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Joined: October 21, 2010, 2:01 am
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Location: Portland Oregon
The uprights are custom CNC machined. The camber and castor can be changed by shims to toe in/out does not change when camber and castor dimensions are changed.
The diff is an OBX torsen style that has been adapted from oil bath to greased. Had to modify the diff to seal it up. Its for a Golf GTI as well as the drive shafts.

The hubs are VW, the center lot is a bittlet machine 4130 heat treated shaft that is threaded on to the out board axle threads. There is a supporting flange to spread the load and it is pins to stop it from backing out. The whole design it rock solid!


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 11, 2013, 2:37 am 
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Joined: October 21, 2010, 2:01 am
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Location: Portland Oregon
more pics


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 11, 2013, 8:56 am 
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Joined: March 19, 2011, 2:05 pm
Posts: 50
Nice chassis, top notch build quality thus far.

My only niggle/change would be adding some braces on the rear box, where the UCA pickups intersect the vertical member partway up, rather than at a node to better distribute the forces it sees into other members rather than into bending. It looks quite lightweight and will drive circles around most anything out there regardless, I can't wait to see it progress. :cheers:


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 11, 2013, 12:39 pm 
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Joined: September 3, 2012, 10:48 pm
Posts: 336
Location: Hamden CT.
kiwimanz wrote:
I have been running a full Aero D Sport for a number of years so Im very familiar with ride height etc.
Bear in mind when the car goes to the track it will be running Hoosier R25 slicks. You may want to try lower tire pressure to get your R6's to bite. We run 12 / 13 lbs front and rear! This car will be a full length tunnel car with diffuser and front wing/ diffuser.
Running some early CFD's places the car with more than 1800lbs of down force at 150mph.
The ride heights you are running would not allow any under body aero to serve the purpose it was designed for.



962porsche wrote:
you will be hating your car if you plan on running 1.5 inch of ground hight . my F1000 and my D-sports cars run more than that at 2.25 .
i tried running them at 1.75 and the cars bottom all the time every were . because of the suspenion travel being 3" then with stadic ride hight bring it to 2.75 then with balancing out the car it dropped it to the 2.25 .

you have to remember to low is to slow ! there is the balance of wanting to use the most of all your suspension travel and not bottoming out the car that will put you into a spin . then you have aero down force that will push the car even lower to the track .
in many cases it's about .25 " so if you do that and your running any wings your only going to have 1.25 of ground clearance .

then many will try to up there spring rates as to not have the car bottom . as you know that does not work because you have to use the springs match to the running weight of the car . in my cars i have deferent set but they start at 250 and top out at 325 with each dampener valved to each spring rate .

at the end of the day you will bottom the car and put your self into a spin .


there is also one other thing to think about and that is the tires you want to use for the track .
i tried running the A and R 6's for just track days . one car being 803 lbs and the other at 926LBS they could not build any heat at all . they need to be at 200 degress to work any thing less than say 160 and it's like driving on ice i tried lowering the pressure down to 17 front and 18 rears and still no good the out side and inside temps were still only 139 at it hottest and the centers were only at 124 and it was still like driving on ice . that was with the A6's the R6's were even worse . when i talked to kevin at hoosier he said there is no way to make them work they are a tire made for cars over 1900 LBS . i ended up running just for track days the R35A's and i have used them on the car for two years and 17 two day events now and they still have life in them . the tires i use for wheel to wheel racing is a hole other matter they are so sort i only get two events out of them .

just some thing to think about with very light weight cars .


yes i lowed the pressure but not that low when Kevin from hoosier and i were talking about it he did say that in no way will the A or R 6's every work at any pressure . as you know once your at a point were the center of the tires heat is much lower that the out side temps your at to low of a pressure to ever get the tires to work and build the needed heat into them .
as you know because of F1000 and D-sport rules we can not run a total tunnel car .

that's great you can get a car to work at a 1.5 " ride hight !
my self as a chassis engineer and the owner of a chassis shop i'm a little jealous you can get a car to work with very little suspension travel left and running a car so low that it does not bottom and skate .


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 Post subject: Re: New Build
PostPosted: January 11, 2013, 4:21 pm 
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Joined: October 21, 2010, 2:01 am
Posts: 140
Location: Portland Oregon
Well I will say to run 1.5" ride height on the front required 1200lbs springs at a 1:1 wheel / shock ratio. It made for a rough ride but when using a full width front Stohr WF1 diffuser it was completely necessary.

I can get away with full tunnels as the car will fit into C Sport rule category. Honestly being that I'm building the car for the road / track it's full of comprises and will be fun but it will never run at the front of the pack.

I think my inspiration to build the car came from talking myself out of buying a Corvette to tool around in on the weekends. Every one has one so they never turn heads. I wanted to build a Corvette killer / head turner for under $20K and it looks to be right on track.

All the chassis was designed in Solid Works as well as the body. I have all the tubes CNC router cut by VR3 Engineering in Canada. Those guys did an amazing job and were super professional to deal with.... very price competitive too!

Also, please know that I am yet to insert more gussets and cross members to stiffen high load areas. It is far from being a complete chassis. Next is pedal box install then the engine.


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