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PostPosted: June 1, 2015, 7:14 pm 
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Joined: June 1, 2015, 6:49 pm
Posts: 5
Hi guys and gals,hi my names Fabo and I'm from Australia...
I'd like to ask some questions bout some engines,zx14,R1,cbr1000rr etc..
Now long story short I have raced a 64 beetle for a few yaers in hillclimbs and super sprints then crashed it then just finished building another on and on my third track tuning day threw a leg out of bed so now my dak dak engines dead.and to tell you I have been Lovings BEC's is a understatement.so I'm very likely going to motor bike power my new car,mid mount like the z car minis etc.BTW hope you don't mind me posting on a locost forum!!!
So I've been considering the busa,zx14 motors in NA form or the R1,cbr1000rr in turbo.

Now everyone likes the busa,but they are exy and a lot of people say dry sump etc which is another $3000 on top.so poop to that...

Zx14 engine for my 700kg car?? I have read it doesn't need a dry sump setup etc.sounds good to me as far as $$ go's...

Or DIY turbo a R1 or cbr1000rr ,nothing outrages just a mild amount of boost to help with the less HP and torque of the smaller motor.these engines are a lot cheaper and I think if it goes bang its cheaper to replace then the busa etc.....

So feel free to give me some good advise..

Thanks..

Below is a quick video of my old beetle...
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&sour ... u1bHjxIX2w


Last edited by cnfabo on June 2, 2015, 4:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2015, 9:03 pm 
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Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
Posts: 3160
Location: Oregon, usually
Welcome, Fabo,
cnfabo wrote:
So feel free to give me some good advise..
For starters, tell us what you're building. Knowing what kind of car you're planning may help us be better advisors. Second, not many of us speak Strine, so if you're going to use colorful phrases like "threw a leg out of bed" include a parenthetical note of translation (connecting rod failure, right?). Also, there is loads of info on these engines in this very forum, so read the BEC build logs and see how (and why) happy (or not) BEC builders are with their choices.
cnfabo wrote:
Below is a quick video of my old beetle...
Or perhaps an old video of your quick beetle. Either way, I was impressed, and you clearly have your heart in the right place--I think* you'll fit right in here.

*I think you'll fit right in here, but I reserve my final opinion 'till you tell us what you're building.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2015, 11:53 pm 
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Joined: December 4, 2011, 6:19 pm
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That beetle looks like it's got some grunt but as soon as the video started I saw a problem with the car....you assembled it backwards. You put the steering wheel on the wrong side. :? Welcome. looking forward to hearing more about your engine swap.

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PostPosted: June 2, 2015, 7:02 pm 
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Joined: June 1, 2015, 6:49 pm
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Thanks for the funny replies.

I have already built another track beetle and on my third track tuning day I had a oil pressure issue and didn't realize till to late then bang...so I'm thinking I would like to put a bike engine in it mid mounted like the z car mini's etc....as to what engine I'm not sure.busa's out because of the prices and the extra in dry dumping etc,so I'm down to zx14,R1 and cbr1000rr but turbo the litre engines to gain more power as my car will be around 700kg.yet to weigh it without the T1 engine in.
Any one with experience with the above mentioned engines,hurdles,wiring etc.any problems that may arise etc??
The wiring is what will play with my head and propably the only thing I'm concerned about..

Thanks
Fabo


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PostPosted: June 2, 2015, 8:18 pm 
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Joined: March 1, 2012, 6:40 pm
Posts: 159
Location: Garner NC
Save yourself a lot of time (and money) and buy a whole bike. Wiring is easy when you have everything together to see what controls what. You can then part out what you don't need on eBay or the like.

I can't speak for the other motors, but Honda makes it pretty easy for you with the computer neatly arranged on top of the air box.

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PostPosted: June 2, 2015, 8:22 pm 
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Put a giubo between the trans input and the bike output, leave it in fourth on a longer track and third if it's a gymkhana. Then you even get a reverse. :)

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PostPosted: June 2, 2015, 8:46 pm 
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Joined: March 1, 2012, 6:40 pm
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Location: Garner NC
oldejack wrote:
Put a giubo between the trans input and the bike output, leave it in fourth on a longer track and third if it's a gymkhana. Then you even get a reverse. :)


He'll have to flip the trans or find an old 901 box if he wants to go mid-engine though.


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PostPosted: June 2, 2015, 10:27 pm 
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Joined: October 29, 2013, 5:15 pm
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cnfabo wrote:
busa's out because of the prices and the extra in dry dumping etc,so I'm down to zx14,R1 and cbr1000rr but turbo the litre engines to gain more power


Rilltech racing makes a baffled low profile wet sump pan for the Hayabusa motor (and the GSXR1000) that's good for 3+ lateral g. Their website doesn't list prices, but I seem to recall reading that they were in the US$700-800 range. Not cheap, but a damn sight better than a dry sump system.

Between the other three, I'd say go with the R1. If you aren't going to spend the money on an aftermarket oil pan the R1 has a big advantage over the red bike and the green bike in that it comes from the factory with a low profile oil pan. The other two have deep sumps which means that the R1 motor can sit about ~50mm lower in the chassis.


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PostPosted: June 4, 2015, 10:05 pm 
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Location: S. Florida
cnfabo wrote:
Thanks for the funny replies.

I have already built another track beetle and on my third track tuning day I had a oil pressure issue and didn't realize till to late then bang...so I'm thinking I would like to put a bike engine in it mid mounted like the z car mini's etc....as to what engine I'm not sure.busa's out because of the prices and the extra in dry dumping etc,so I'm down to zx14,R1 and cbr1000rr but turbo the litre engines to gain more power as my car will be around 700kg.yet to weigh it without the T1 engine in.
Any one with experience with the above mentioned engines,hurdles,wiring etc.any problems that may arise etc??
The wiring is what will play with my head and propably the only thing I'm concerned about..

Thanks
Fabo
I have a long series of articles (with lots of pictures) of my GSXR-1000 Locost build on my website that may interest you. And the wiring is one of the big pains with any fuel injected engine. But at least a track car doesn't need all the fancy headlights etc. Having the factory shop manual with schematics is a necessity.

How to get the clutch to work in a car is another time consuming task. I used a hydraulic master/slave setup and I have details how I did that too on the site. On the GSXR-1000 about 0.040" is the total in/out of the clutch push rod on the engine.

~1500 lbs is going to be a lot of weight for a bike clutch but for racing it might last OK. The locost weight would be a good bit less than that since the GSXR-1000 engine AND transmission weigh about 160 lbs.

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PostPosted: June 6, 2015, 8:47 pm 
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Joined: June 1, 2015, 6:49 pm
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Thanks guys, I've got some engine quotes off high rush.any other wreckers suggestions etc....I'll start looking for wrecked bikes also here in Australia.


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PostPosted: March 26, 2016, 1:13 am 
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Joined: June 1, 2015, 6:49 pm
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Hi guys. I ended up getting a 2006 zx14 motor for my bug and currently puting it in...I'll try put some pics up but don't count on me because me and puters don't get along....

Now,is there really much gain vs $$$ going from the std headers to a 4-2-1 system ??...I've thought bout it and jeez there is a bit of work to build a new system where I could just modify the std system and use one aftermarket muffler instead of two.....

Sumps, who has had a crack at making their own baffled sump and it's lasted racing without a accusump?? I have been told the std sump will be fine with a accusump and I have spoke to someone here in OZ who has done the dry sump thing etc but took it off to save weight and now runs a modified std sump which is as deep as std but full width across with baffles,no accusump and is fine.in a open wheeler too....but he had no photos for me :-\ :-\ . I'm not interested in buying one as I like saving money where I can and enjoy making things myself that work,most of the time lol...

Is there anyway I can make a normal monster tacho work..I plan to put the bike dash under the passenger side dash just if a error code etc pops up I can c it without hooking up those computer thingies....

Enough questions for now.
Thanks
Fabo


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PostPosted: March 26, 2016, 1:14 am 
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