LocostUSA.com

Thank you!

Yes I don't think this color would work on a lot of cars but it seems right on this one. I have read through most of your N600 build and you did some fantastic work. If this car turns out half as cool I'll be thrilled!

--Thank you Roadhouse

Cinna- I don't mean to threadjack roadhouses build, but briefly, you can do this in CA, but not with a 'modern' car (late model mini)-- you gotta stick with the old stuff out here, as you can't smog a production car as a bike (they won't allow a bike engine in a car for street use)...

I had a recent BEC project to title in CA, and here's what I learned that some other people's uncle's brother's friend's cousin's have been known to do.. Title your pre-1975 car (post 75 and all bets are off) as whatever it is, running or not.. just get the title/registration/insurance cleared and done with the car in stock trim.. THEN, pull the OEM lump and stuff your bike motor as you wish.. CA has no provision for a bike engine to go into your 'production' car , but they also have no provision to ever look at it, or even question it once it's titled/tagged properly (read no safety or smog inspections to pass) ..

Title; build; enjoy


--ccrunner

_________________
Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

It's been about a month since my last update. My wife and I welcomed our first child to the world on 9/1 so we have been a little busy with her for the last few weeks

As far as the car, it's still at the body shop waiting to have all the body parts assembled on the shell. I did receive confirmation today that the Lynx R1 kit shipped (only 13 weeks after I paid) so I'm looking forward to checking that out soon. That's about it...just playing the waiting game right now.

And here's another picture of the shell just because

The "I want to build a bike-engined car" starter kit. 14 weeks later, the Lynx kit has finally arrived. I hope to inventory the contents and make sure it's all there and in good condition sometime this week. Now I just need a car so I can start putting these parts on it.... nothing moves quickly.

I was able to spend some time this evening tearing into the Lynx delivery. The engine cradle looks fantastic and I'm pretty pleased with the headers as well. Nice welds on both and powder coat on the cradle survived the journey with no blemishes. There were some items that ended up damaged, however. The shift knob is pretty badly scratched/pitted, the radiator shroud is badly cracked in multiple spots, and the radiator fan has a broken blade. Overall I suppose these aren't major issues but still a little disappointing. I'm glad the most important parts are blemish free.

The shipping damage is frustrating, but considering the journey all those heavy, bulky items made in the same box, it's probably not surprising .. Maybe just turn down the knob a bit to get it back?.. The shroud looks like fiberglass? (plastic?) Either way something you can remedy.. A bit of epoxy on the fan blade?... just too bad that for the $$ you're in that you have to do anything other than just bolt it up

Keep us posted-

--ccrunner

_________________
Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

Completely agree. I emailed them about these issues and one part that was missing so we'll see what they say. Stuff happens, although it complicates things when shipping from another country.

I broke down yesterday and ordered the Barnett clutch spring conversion kit. My original plan was to just use an extra stock spring but I decided to just do it right the first time and not have to mess with it. I have new factory clutch discs so hopefully I can wrap up the clutch next week and install new gaskets and have the motor ready. I also broke down and ordered new genuine front and rear subframes for the car. RIP my wallet. The subframes that came with the car were in ok shape after I straightened them out but I decided the shell was going to be too nice now to put those back on it. And after further inspection, the front subframe was a wet suspension setup. That wasn't going to work. Sigh...buy once cry once.

Starting to come together now

Spent a little time on the R1 engine this last weekend. Pulled the stator and oil pan covers and installed new gaskets for both. I also learned that I will need to cut the oil pan baffle to clear the oil level sensor. Not a huge deal. Some people just make a block-off plate for the sensor but I would prefer to keep it. New clutch springs arrived so maybe I can get that wrapped up this weekend. This engine really needs a thorough cleaning once I get it all put back together. I even found what appears to be plastidip on some of the covers. blegh







Slowly but surely we are getting closer to a completed shell. Sliding windows are back on the car. Apparently these are pretty crappy to work with? Just take my money...

Front and rear glass are in. Body shop is going coat the underside of the car and tidy up a few things over the next few days, then I'm scheduled to pick her up on Saturday. Can't wait!

Welp, the little mini finally made it back home yesterday. Very happy with the color and work performed by Andy's Hotrods and Restoration. Good bunch of guys over there if anyone needs some work performed in Tulsa. After this they are now "experts" on classic minis lol.

I was a little nervous about strapping the finished shell down on the trailer but it ended up being ok. There were some attachment points on the front of the shell and then we went through the doors and around to the back. All while the shell was only resting on its rolling cart. I swear I went about 35 miles an hour all the way home but we made it with no issues!

A few body issues still remain...I need to add the rubber trim to the rear flares, mount the rear license plate lamp holder, adjust hood struts, and figure out the door key issue. You can only open the door with the key in one position but in that position you can't take the key out. Otherwise the door is always locked. Kind of strange...

Anyway, thanks for following along so far. I suppose now the real work can begin.





Sorry- some of these pics are a little dark. whomp

Looks Gorgarriffic!

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Very nice!

_________________
Larry in Seattle

Looks great.

Did you guys add the chrome trim or is it a Cooper shell?

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

I was talking to an owner of an R1 powered Mini this summer and he too installed heavier clutch springs. Now the car is almost undriveable on the street since the clutch is now like a switch, either on or off. Playing with lever ratios on the linkage had only slightly improve the situation. Bike engine cars with essentially no flywheel mass take a bit of getting used to when starting from a standstill and the stronger springs just exacerbate the problem.

Peter