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| CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19392 |
Page 11 of 19 |
| Author: | Johnsinski [ November 30, 2019, 3:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
This part will bolt to the diff on the ring gear holes. It's going to be part of my "cush" drive. The sprocket will have some pie shaped holes and I'll cast some rubber bushing for it. I'm planning on putting plates and a ring of UHMW plastic for everything to slide on. |
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| Author: | Lonnie-S [ November 30, 2019, 1:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
You have a very nice build, and a very interesting one too. What is the material in the machined part in photo cush_drive_base1 above. It looks like aluminum most of the time, but steel other times. Cheers, |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ November 30, 2019, 10:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
Yup, aluminum. Here's a render without the outer cover plate or the outer UHMW plate. |
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| Author: | Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ December 1, 2019, 6:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
Looks good. That must have taken a few days! I don't know if it is finished but you may not want to take any more material out of the base. If the bottom plate is too thin, the blocks can act as a lever and crack out of the base. Have you decided on the durometer? Maybe an additive to prevent splitting/cracking of the inserts? You can re add the lost pics by finding the same image name and leave or remove the old pic id with the number of views. |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ December 2, 2019, 2:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
The base thickness is about .200" where the lugs come out. I'll also have another 1/8" plate on the other side bolting into those lugs. Hopefully it'll have an ok fatigue life. I should have maybe finished that bottom corner with a BEM (radius). And the milling wasn't as bad as I thought, a lot of material removal. 1/4" cutter, .070" dp, around 30 IPM. Although the machine did make some interesting new noises! Those high speed machining videos make me so jelly! I'll use the rest of the urethane I used for the arm bushings and motor mounts. I think it was a 70. Once cured it is very tough. I have a little bit of an interference fit on the rubber parts, it seemed like the right thing to do (more engineering jargon). I'll see if I can figure out how to re-add my old pics, without deleting the view count. |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ December 5, 2019, 4:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
Diff getting there. Motor is a 2004, harness is a 2006 or 2007. Silly engineers decided to flip the connectors on the VSS. (vehicle speed sensor.) Anybody got any clue as to the bare minimum of wiring I need to get it running right? It's got an exhaust servo that operates a plate valve, which I don't have. There's an intake solenoid, and maybe one other air intake valve. Ideally I don't think I want any of that unless it needs it to run correctly. The stuff I would assume I need is the MAP (manifold air pressure), CAM position sensor, Crank position sensor and air temp in the airbox. |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ December 7, 2019, 3:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
On a whim I stopped at the local parts/paint store and they sold me this for priming: nason Ful-Poxy 491-16. I cleaned up a couple arms and went for it. I have a little gravity feed paint gun with 1.0mm tip, the store recommended 1.5, but oh well, it seems to have worked. |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ January 2, 2020, 5:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
I got it fully suspended! I took a wheebase measurement. The CAD measurement is 95.58", I'm either incredibly skilled or incredible lucky. Picture is measured edge to edge. |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ January 2, 2020, 5:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
And me jumping up and down on it. Seems about right. I think the clicking is due to nothing really being bolted and tightened together yet, just bolts loosely sitting where they go. Embedded link not working so: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFv6GF9ohSU |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ January 2, 2020, 6:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
And the cush drive is coming together. |
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| Author: | Bent Wrench [ January 3, 2020, 4:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
I've always wondered if the gains from less unsprung weight of an inboard brake is better than being able to use the brake torque at the wheel to assist the rear suspension? Nice work! |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ January 3, 2020, 6:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
Yea, I'm not sure I even thought about the forces on the upright and what it would do to the suspension. Hopefully the inboard rear brake will work, the uprights are still able to have brakes mounted to them for plan B. I don't know what happened to the youtube video, it was showing when I posted it, but then it went away, hmmm. |
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| Author: | Bent Wrench [ January 3, 2020, 8:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
I had a 3 link car once that had rotating caliper mounts with link going forward and angled to plant the wheel and it also eliminated wheel hop I believe. Through A arm pivot angles you can get the same anti-dive effect as in the front. (also anti-squat which is the opposite) |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ January 5, 2020, 6:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
My arm mount brackets can adjust the dive and squat. Well adjust isn't the right word, I can make different brackets to adjust that. |
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| Author: | Johnsinski [ February 28, 2020, 11:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: CBR1000RR BEC, F1000ish design. |
Pedal box, seems like this is something you should buy... But...I've started building one anyway. For the bias bar I've got a 7/16 threaded rod (cut off bolt), some jam nuts and a spherical bearing I bought. It's range is about +- 20% bias based on 2.5" centers for the master cylinders. I put 5/8 holes in my fabed yokes to fit the 5/8 barrel nuts I turned. I turned the brake bias tube ID to about .910", the bearing measures about .907". Do you think that supposed to fit in a 15/16" (.9375) bore? It seems like that would be a bit too much slop. Of course, it distorted after welding, so I need to bore it out a bit. Should those washers be like a belleville washer? |
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