Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Geo,
A more car like clutch application is the opposite of needing more throw at the engine. If after adjusting, the car lurches forward when you engage first from neutral, more swing travel of the pedal is needed and/or you must settle for the pinch bolt location (use a clevis) for the cable (for practical reasons). An inline ratio adjuster could be made but that is more complicated. I would not alter the engine arm to change the pin location.
Does the pedal UP stop allow the pad to come back even with the brake pad? If not, you might consider removing the UP stop bolt on your pedal for a wrap around UP stop like this one and also an MK Indy. Just a 2x1/8 strip of aluminum or steel bent and drilled with a piece of rubber (like fuel hose) split and placed over the edge to cushion.
Pictures and vids are always helpful.
Yesterday I removed the pedal, drilled a hole an inch above the pivot point, routed the cable under the pivot point, secured it to the new location, and lost 50% of the lever travel at the motor. I pulled the pedal full stop towards the driver, made a pedal stop on the firewall, and moved the cable back to its original position, and it's much better than it had been, a few Trys of take-off, and no stalls. I'm going to order the adjuster, MK cable, and have adapter fabricated and try to fix it the correct way. The lever at the motor looks original according to video's on youtube, and my Haynes manual. I'll report back once I get everything completed.
I was thinking about a rod setup but needed to figure out how much lever travel at the motor I need to achieve engage disengage, but as I said, can't find it. It seems to be working well at the moment, so I'll measure the travel and take that as correct and continue to ponder how to do a rod setup. It's a good exercise for an old man's brain cells...LOL