Moving right along on my 920 Virago 3-wheel tilter. I got a transmission output shaft on ebay for the extra U-joint required for the other end of the added drive shaft. And whaddya know, I found that I can mix the u-joints, that is swap ends so that I have identical splines on the engine end, allowing me to weld driveshaft extension tube to a spline end that matches, and do the same on the back end.
That added transmission shaft with its bearing is a perfect spot to add PTO sprocket for my hydraulic pump/motor, which will create pressure for the tilter cylinder AND power the car in reverse. A custom-made valve and a sprocket engager have to be built for this but they are pretty simple. Since in pumping mode I need 2:1 reduction, while in reverse motor mode I want 1:5 going the other way, I will use V-belt for one and roller chain for the other drive, on the same pair of shafts. The larger sprocket on the main drive shaft has to freewheel so as not to spin the driven sprocket up to 25,000 rpm. It is only engaged for reverse; shift is done at a dead stop, zero shaft speed. I estimate that the hydraulic pump/motor may draw (or produce) around two HP, so the single belt drive should work OK. It will need a tensioner pulley to let it slide while in reverse. Pics after I get some cutting and layout done.
I started on a 1/8 scale model to brush out any kinks ahead of time, plus get a good visual for style. I'm hoping to come out with a Bugati look. The front cylinder of the engine will protrude though the bonnet on the right side, and I will spend some time getting the body to adapt to this without looking gawky or haphazard. The lines of course must be fair and pleasing. I'll go with a straight bonnet with gentle slope downward ending with a classic Bugati radiator. I had hoped to get a water cooled V-twin which mounts transverse (one cylinder sticking out each side a la Motoguzzi) but I had to settle for the virago fore&aft air cooled motor. At least this one has more displacement. 2 chrome pipes out one side - yeeehaaa.
Last night I was able to set up the model frame to pivot around the roll axis, and I found that I have 30 deg. tilt each side, which is excellent. I need no more than that to keep balance in "normal" driving, which is all I expect to do. See, wide track isn't required for stability on this rig. The 2-seat portion is four ft wide, but I slanted up the outer six inches to get more tilt without cutting back much volume & comfort.
Right now I plan to lay up most of the body with epoxyglass. The bonnet can be made of steel or aluminum or fiberglass since it has no compound curves. It is two pieces, louvered, hinged down the middle. I am thinking of grinding a punch tool to make the louvers in metal; doubt that such a tool can be found for sale or rent. But then the other alternative is to build a mold including the louvers and lay it up, trim each louver with clippers and sandpaper. Any advice here is welcome. Oh and the forward cowl and faux radiator will be fixed to the front axle, NOT tilt. So there will be rotation between front end of bonnet and the cowl. Would be nice if that joint were circular centered at the point of rotation, but it would spoil the lines.
More later as it happens. Maybe I should start a build log on here?