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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 22, 2011, 3:48 pm 
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Joined: July 14, 2008, 9:07 pm
Posts: 228
Location: SW FL
There always seems to be a lot of discussion on this site about metal cutting options; bandsaw, abrasive chopsaw, hack(how appropriate)saw. During an off topic project, my wife heard me complaing. Well this past Christmas, she gave me a 7-1/4" circular ferrous metal cutting blade. (Very thoughful woman :D )

This past week I unpacked it and chucked it up in my ancient, all metal, direct drive, Skil brand circular saw. This thing cuts angle, tubing, bar and strapping easier and quieter than a 24 tooth carbide blade in the same saw cuts 2x4's!

It is a Tenryu brand, Steel-Pro blade, part number PRF-18548 BW. It is 48 tooth carbide, 5/8" arbor rated for 5800 rpm (my saw is 5200 rpm). This particulr blade says "Recommended for up tp 0.125 wall thickness", though I did cut some 3/16" strap. She found the blade at a local construction tool supply company (Tropical Construction in Pt. Charlotte, FL) on the advice of a contractor friend of ours.

I can't begin to describe how easy this blade worked. Cross cuts on tube, etc., were a piece of cake. I needed to slice off one side of 2x1/8" angle as well, leaving only a 2" tongue on the other side. I clamped the angle in the vise and eyeballed a line 1/8" from the edge. The cut was SO smooth, it even shaved down the area where angle iron gets slightly thicker on the inside of the angle. I highly recommend adding one of these blades to your bag o' tricks!

In several different threads over the years, I've seen builders that have done mock-ups in wood prior to cutting metal. I say go ahead. Use wood to determine your cut angles, THEN put the blade on metal.

Hope this is useful to everyone,
Mikey Bynum


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PostPosted: May 22, 2011, 5:40 pm 
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Joined: July 26, 2010, 10:37 am
Posts: 752
Location: Tennessee
thanks :cheers:


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