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shear/break http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=17524 |
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Author: | sen2two [ August 8, 2015, 5:04 pm ] |
Post subject: | shear/break |
I'm looking for a low budget break and shear that will work with at least 11 gauge aluminum. Which is about .090" thick. I seen harbor freight has a 3 in 1 30" slip roll, break, shear. But is only good for 20 gauge. Which is almost 3 times thinner than what I need it for. The 52" seems much more stout, but will take up to much space. I do all my work in my garage. Which is already over crowded and hard to do anything in. 30" is about the right size for me. Anyone know if the HF 30" one can be upgraded to work with 11 gauge 5052 aluminum? Or a low buck DIY design to build my own? Ps... I've had no luck finding used equipment. Craigslist has seemed to have died off. Sad, there were always so many good deals. |
Author: | KB58 [ August 8, 2015, 6:24 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
In building two cars, I never once needed to bend wide thick material. I did bend annealed 0.125 aluminum brackets using an I-beam, clamps, and a hold-down bar. However, the vast majority of the bending was of material that was 0.050" or thinner. If you need to bend something really big, consider sucking it up and taking it to a local shop. That way you don't have a big piece of equipment in your garage that you use about twice. |
Author: | bob [ August 8, 2015, 7:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
I built a press brake about 20 years ago from scrapyard hydraulics and heavy steel plate. It will bend 1/2" thick steel plate, its about 18" long in the bed. Really simple things to build and comes in really handy when making things like engine mounts because more folding means less welding. Its red rusty now but still operational, will take some pics of it tomorrow. Bob |
Author: | sen2two [ August 9, 2015, 9:05 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
^I'm interested to see it. I did see a bunch of DIY breaks on Google. Pretty simple to make. I'll just go that route. I often wind up cutting and welding things together like fuel cells and intake manifolds because I have no break. These parts would come out a lot nicer and be twice as easy to make if I could bend most of the shape out of one flat pattern first. Also, I'm looking to make my seat now as well. Doing this without a break would really be a pain in the ass. |
Author: | sen2two [ August 9, 2015, 4:20 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
That's probly the coolest home made tool I have ever seen. If you weren't an entire ocean away, I'd be trying to buy it from you! |
Author: | bob [ August 11, 2015, 2:56 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
As you can see from the chassis`s the folding cut down on heaps of welding , it also made the chassis jigs a lot more straight forward and user friendly. Without the folder all of those smaller brackets would have to be made as sub assemblies. Bob |
Author: | turbo_bird [ August 11, 2015, 4:05 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
Never mind the brake, now I want to see what you were building the chassis' for that you needed 20 of them. Kristian |
Author: | bob [ August 11, 2015, 4:59 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
Nothing exciting Kristian. A very good friend of mine used to own Eagle/Dutton cars who made a few kit based vehicles one of which was a cj jeep look alike that was based on 4x4 range rover running gear. To cut a long story short he fell ill and I purchased the body molds and chassis jigs. I was never supplied a chassis and the jigs he gave me for making the chassis`s were atrocious. I also noticed from the cars I had seen finished that there were far too many bits left for the home builder to try and fabricate themselves , many of which made me feel ill to look at Anyway I made a new jig and included all the bracketry on the revised chassis which left the home builder an easy basic spanner job to complete . The chassis`s were made to accept left and right hand drive I also had them galvanised at the same time so they could be batch made and stacked outside giving them a shelf life . It must have been good because one guy had his car on the road in a week, a fair few were sold but life got in the way and other work commitments took priority. That said a few a year still go out. They make a serious off roader weighing in at a ton which is under half the weight and double the power to weight of the doner car. They also have serious brakes Bob Attachment: mb-9Xi2evsRsr4Su3y-ISnw.jpg Attachment: YI527GD0H_457d9f9c-b0a5-47bb-b170-707d8c3228d4_Cars-Land-Rover-Land-Rover-Range-Rover_large.jpg Attachment: $_1.JPG Attachment: $_1.JPG
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Author: | sen2two [ August 16, 2015, 2:05 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
The more I look into it, the more I think a press brake is the way to go vs. A finger brake. I found this. Looks like a great option. http://www.swagoffroad.com/40-Universal ... _p_43.html |
Author: | raceral [ August 16, 2015, 10:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
I haven't purchased that particular item but have purchased other items from them and I have never been disappointed with their products. Very friendly and helpful. Al |
Author: | sen2two [ August 19, 2015, 12:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
So i'm just going to build the entire press break from scratch. There isn't much to it. I drew up an A-frame press break. should be just a days work to get it all done. But with my schedule, it will be more like a week. For material, I have these 6" tall x 4" wide aluminum I beams. They have .190" web with .280" thick top and bottom flange. Would this be strong enough to use for the A-frame structure? I doubt I will bend anything thicker than .125" steel with mostly everything being .0625" and .090" aluminum. Maybe in a very rare case I would bend pieces of .250" steel. probley only a few inches wide. My total bending capacity will be 36" wide. |
Author: | bob [ August 19, 2015, 1:41 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
I was thinking about this the other day and cant see why a beam cannot be mounted between channels that crops on the down stroke and has a v block that could fold on the upstroke. Just needs some thought on some power up/down methods. Bob |
Author: | sen2two [ August 19, 2015, 10:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: shear/break |
I don't follow about folding on the upstroke. Can you elaborate some? |
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