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 Post subject: shear/break
PostPosted: August 8, 2015, 5:04 pm 
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Joined: July 24, 2008, 9:18 pm
Posts: 224
I'm looking for a low budget break and shear that will work with at least 11 gauge aluminum. Which is about .090" thick.

I seen harbor freight has a 3 in 1 30" slip roll, break, shear. But is only good for 20 gauge. Which is almost 3 times thinner than what I need it for. The 52" seems much more stout, but will take up to much space. I do all my work in my garage. Which is already over crowded and hard to do anything in. 30" is about the right size for me.

Anyone know if the HF 30" one can be upgraded to work with 11 gauge 5052 aluminum?

Or a low buck DIY design to build my own?


Ps... I've had no luck finding used equipment. Craigslist has seemed to have died off. Sad, there were always so many good deals.

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 8, 2015, 6:24 pm 
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Mid-Engined Maniac

Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
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Location: SoCal
In building two cars, I never once needed to bend wide thick material. I did bend annealed 0.125 aluminum brackets using an I-beam, clamps, and a hold-down bar. However, the vast majority of the bending was of material that was 0.050" or thinner. If you need to bend something really big, consider sucking it up and taking it to a local shop. That way you don't have a big piece of equipment in your garage that you use about twice.

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 8, 2015, 7:08 pm 
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Joined: August 19, 2014, 5:17 pm
Posts: 685
Location: England
I built a press brake about 20 years ago from scrapyard hydraulics and heavy steel plate. It will bend 1/2" thick steel plate, its about 18" long in the bed. Really simple things to build and comes in really handy when making things like engine mounts because more folding means less welding. Its red rusty now but still operational, will take some pics of it tomorrow.

Bob

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 9, 2015, 9:05 am 
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Joined: July 24, 2008, 9:18 pm
Posts: 224
^I'm interested to see it.

I did see a bunch of DIY breaks on Google. Pretty simple to make. I'll just go that route.

I often wind up cutting and welding things together like fuel cells and intake manifolds because I have no break. These parts would come out a lot nicer and be twice as easy to make if I could bend most of the shape out of one flat pattern first. Also, I'm looking to make my seat now as well. Doing this without a break would really be a pain in the ass.

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 9, 2015, 12:26 pm 
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Joined: August 19, 2014, 5:17 pm
Posts: 685
Location: England
Excuse the state of it, its in a sweaty old shipping container in the yard , its still in use but I cant justify it cave space. I got some thick steel plate from a scrap yard and a few lengths of channel steel ( new :) ) . the hydraulic ram came from a big digging machine, the hydraulic motor/tank combo was an industrial unit form ebay 50$ . The hydraulic control valve 20$ is both hand and foot operated which is handy because 99% of the time you need your hands free. Its my own design , it uses the upright channels to sandwich the heavy plate that has the tooling bolted to it,the rollers that you see on the side are kept tensioned on the center section with the use of the threaded rod you see going from side to side top and bottom of the machine. The pressure guage 10$ is a great telltale of when you are close if you are doing repeat bends that are not 90 degrees.It would not be hard to make some tooling to convert this type of press into a shear with some bolt on tooling. Its an ugly beast but as said it will fold 1/2" plate :cheers:

I think it owes me about 350 of your $, I think I owe it a clean up and a coat of paint :(

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Bob

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Last edited by bob on August 9, 2015, 12:48 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 9, 2015, 12:30 pm 
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Joined: August 19, 2014, 5:17 pm
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Location: England
I built about twenty off road chassis`s using this bender and from memory there was about 5 meters of weld saved per chassis. Most of the bent plates on here are 10mm or 12 mm thick

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 9, 2015, 4:20 pm 
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Joined: July 24, 2008, 9:18 pm
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That's probly the coolest home made tool I have ever seen. If you weren't an entire ocean away, I'd be trying to buy it from you!

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 11, 2015, 2:56 am 
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Location: England
As you can see from the chassis`s the folding cut down on heaps of welding , it also made the chassis jigs a lot more straight forward and user friendly. Without the folder all of those smaller brackets would have to be made as sub assemblies.

Bob

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 11, 2015, 4:05 am 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Never mind the brake, now I want to see what you were building the chassis' for that you needed 20 of them.
Kristian

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 11, 2015, 4:59 am 
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Location: England
Nothing exciting Kristian. A very good friend of mine used to own Eagle/Dutton cars who made a few kit based vehicles one of which was a cj jeep look alike that was based on 4x4 range rover running gear. To cut a long story short he fell ill and I purchased the body molds and chassis jigs. I was never supplied a chassis and the jigs he gave me for making the chassis`s were atrocious. I also noticed from the cars I had seen finished that there were far too many bits left for the home builder to try and fabricate themselves , many of which made me feel ill to look at :roll: Anyway I made a new jig and included all the bracketry on the revised chassis which left the home builder an easy basic spanner job to complete . The chassis`s were made to accept left and right hand drive I also had them galvanised at the same time so they could be batch made and stacked outside giving them a shelf life . It must have been good because one guy had his car on the road in a week, a fair few were sold but life got in the way and other work commitments took priority. That said a few a year still go out. They make a serious off roader weighing in at a ton which is under half the weight and double the power to weight of the doner car. They also have serious brakes :cheers:

Bob



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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 16, 2015, 2:05 pm 
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The more I look into it, the more I think a press brake is the way to go vs. A finger brake.

I found this. Looks like a great option.

http://www.swagoffroad.com/40-Universal ... _p_43.html

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 16, 2015, 10:50 pm 
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Joined: June 24, 2007, 6:04 pm
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I haven't purchased that particular item but have purchased other items from them and I have never been disappointed with their products.
Very friendly and helpful.

Al

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 19, 2015, 12:06 pm 
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So i'm just going to build the entire press break from scratch. There isn't much to it. I drew up an A-frame press break. should be just a days work to get it all done. But with my schedule, it will be more like a week.

For material, I have these 6" tall x 4" wide aluminum I beams. They have .190" web with .280" thick top and bottom flange. Would this be strong enough to use for the A-frame structure?

I doubt I will bend anything thicker than .125" steel with mostly everything being .0625" and .090" aluminum. Maybe in a very rare case I would bend pieces of .250" steel. probley only a few inches wide. My total bending capacity will be 36" wide.

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 19, 2015, 1:41 pm 
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I was thinking about this the other day and cant see why a beam cannot be mounted between channels that crops on the down stroke and has a v block that could fold on the upstroke. Just needs some thought on some power up/down methods.

Bob

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 Post subject: Re: shear/break
PostPosted: August 19, 2015, 10:03 pm 
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I don't follow about folding on the upstroke. Can you elaborate some?

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