LocostUSA.com

so, in preparing for my locost build, I'm reviewing my equipment on hand. I have a welder I love, and that I don't suck with. yes, its a cheapie harbor freight flux core, but it has always done everything ive asked of it, and my metal has never failed to stick together.

ive never done frame or suspension work.

I also have access to my fathers gas equipped Lincoln, but have never had as good an experience or quality of a weld with it. I honestly think my harbor freight does a better job on everything ive used it for, except for cleanliness of welds.

I have no issue grinding welds and splatter.

so, why is it recommended almost everywhere to use a gas equipped mig when building a locost frame? why is flux core a bad idea?


thanks
Michael

Well, as one Michael to another, let me put my $.02 in. Please bear in mind, I haven't actually started my build yet (Soon, very soon), but I have been welding a good long time. As you mentioned, the primary problem that the guys have stated is the 'dirty' weld quality. Lets face it, a flux core welder is basically a 'Stick' welder with a very, very loonngg stick! I too have a F/C welder for use here around my little hobby farm, but I plan to convert it to MIG for my Locost project. I have worked with MIGs in the past, and the clean weld quality makes them very attractive. If your F/C is convertable to gas, the actual process shouldn't cost much more than about $85 + the cost of a gas bottle. More conversion info here; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjPLTpl04j0 This vid refers to a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 which is what I have, but applies to pretty much all convertable F/C welders.

Take this as you will. Just one old mans opinion!

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

BTW, I just read your post from a few years back regarding a Locost based Track-T. Have you looked a stingers "T" build? You may find it interesting. http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=18035

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

His build was cross posted over on grm. Which is what got me motivated again. That, and a locost that showed up at our last autocross.

The c4 Suspension is really intriguing. I'm going to have to study his pictures much more.

So really the only reason not to use flux core is the ugliness of the weld, if I'm reading your response right. Correct?

Cosmetics seems to be a common thread whenever the flux core vs MIG discussion comes up. Hopefully, one of the guys with more experience will chime in here. The MIGs that I've used don't produce a particularly attractive weld, but the welds are clean so further time spent in cleanup is reduced. For a REALLY good looking weld, TIG is the way to go. Anybody else like to give a little input here?

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

Disclaimer: I'm not a welder, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once.

I have read that welding thinner sheet, say 16 or even 18 ga, is much easier with gas. There are (reportedly) fewer burn throughs. I can say that I went with C25 gas AND 0.023 wire and have welded down to 20 ga. sheet. I very seldom need to break out the grinder except fro when I forget to turn on the gas I don't even bother with the heavier 0.030 wire anymore. It is easier for me not to have to change out wire depending on the job. That being said, (and again I hear that....) if you happen to be welding outside, the flux core is preferred.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

You can make acceptable quality welds with flux core, with gas, TIG, stick, or oxy-acetylene. You can also make garbage with any of these processes.

Practice, get your settings right, cut up some welded samples to be sure you're getting good penetration, then start building using whatever makes you happy.

One caution about the HF flux core if it's the small one that you can't convert to gas. Shop around and see if you can find a good quality liner for the torch. Mine wore through and smoked the little machine.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

I find flux core much more practical, but then I'm carrying it around and using it outside for various things. Usually the welds are no more than a foot in length so not much cleanup, and I'm using 110vac from an extension cord so the available amps limit the capability less with flux than with the cooling effect of a shielding gas. Get the most amps you can afford to live with.

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I have the small flux cored welder from harbor freight as well.

I love it, I've got probably 600 hours on it. it can do some stuff well above its pay grade, and if you're patient with it.. and prep your surfaces well, it can leave some nice welds.

That being said, my Hobart blows it out of the water. absolutely no comparison between the two. I am currently using flux core for tacking the entire frame. Its nice because I can leave the doors open and not have to worry about the cool breeze, or position, or lugging a car around my table.. etc.

If you are going to stick with the HF unit, upgrade the ground clamp, use a good (not HF) wire and feed tip. it makes a big difference.

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Tucker

While you're there, get the 1/2" bandfile (Chicago Electric Power Tools - item#92158) for $33, then go online and buy some really good quality sanding belts (the HF ones break almost immediately when you're sanding more than styrofoam). It's much better to use when you're taking garbage off of your welds in tight areas (and can't quite get the $15 hand grinder in there).

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.