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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 4:52 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Does anyone know of a source for hex and flange bolts where the thread length can be specified, or is shorter than standard? I'm using some longer bolts in shear, going through some bearings and sleeves where I need longer than standard shank length. The industry standard for SAE J429 bolts is shown below on a 1/2", grade 8 flange bolt. They are typically designed for adequate strength to resist bolt pull out.
Attachment:
Std-Grade8-Flange-Bolt.jpg


However, I only need about 3/4" of thread, but need the smooth shank for strength, and to prevent galling of the bearings and sleeves over time by the threads. I've found two companies who will make bolts to spec, but they sell them by the thousands when they do, and I only need a few. The bolts used in high-rise construction are more like what I need, but the steel (ASTM spec) is wrong for automotive applications.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Lonnie


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Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 5:12 pm 
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Lonnie,
I use AN hardware in all shear applications; typically the thread length is adequate for the nut plus a washer, and the shank should protrude about 1/2 of the washer thickness for proper seating. That can sometimes be shimmed with more washers or half thickness washers. AN hardware is closer to Grade 5, as it is more ductile than Grade 8.
http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/menus/ha/bolts.html

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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 5:21 pm 
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I buy grade 5 based on the unthreaded shank and cut off the excess with the hand held band saw and the bolt clamped in a vice, then radius the cut end on the grinder.

Why not design for box store hardware? It should be very little weight difference.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 6:09 pm 
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Why not design for box store hardware? It should be very little weight difference.


Well sometimes you can't get the length of shank you need to be unthreaded.Only AN hardware allows you to specify that.

I don't see anything wrong with MV8's method when you can get a suitable bolt to modify.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 10:51 pm 
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mgkluft wrote:
Lonnie,
I use AN hardware in all shear applications; typically the thread length is adequate for the nut plus a washer, and the shank should protrude about 1/2 of the washer thickness for proper seating. That can sometimes be shimmed with more washers or half thickness washers. AN hardware is closer to Grade 5, as it is more ductile than Grade 8.
http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/menus/ha/bolts.html


They may work, Martin. I'll have to educate myself a little (I have zero experience with AN hardware), but they clearly have a huge variety of grip lengths and that's what I need. The shear strength should be adequate too, but I'll have to dig a little on that. They're pricey, but I only need a few of them.

Thank you for the tip.

Cheers,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 10:55 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I buy grade 5 based on the unthreaded shank and cut off the excess with the hand held band saw and the bolt clamped in a vice, then radius the cut end on the grinder.

Why not design for box store hardware? It should be very little weight difference.


I don't trust the products at the big box stores. I have a local hardware store that carries U.S. made grade 5 and grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers, so I use them. Their sizes are all the standard ones, so don't fit this particular application.

Thanks, though.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: April 14, 2016, 12:17 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I buy grade 5 based on the unthreaded shank and cut off the excess with the hand held band saw and the bolt clamped in a vice, then radius the cut end on the grinder


This is what I do except I use plated Gr8 NF bolts with plated washers and plated Stover Grade C NF lock nuts. Stover Grade C lock nuts are a lower profile lock nut than a nylock nut, and heck just look sexier.
I measure the length of shank I need, figure in the washer and nut thickness, allow for 2 thread exposure. I then thread on a sacrificial normal nut and use a zip disc to cut off the excess threads. I then grind a chamfer on the bolt. Then I off thread the nut, when it starts to bind on the end threads just whack the nut on the vise while rotating whole assembly 1/4 turn each time, unthread some more, whack and rotate some more, soon the nut threads off by hand. Whacking the nut sets any burred threads back to normal.
And now you know why we whack our nuts...................
My job is done.

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PostPosted: April 14, 2016, 8:17 am 
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I have always used the nutty company

https://www.nutty.com/

They are local to me, and if they don't have it they can find it. I wouldn't try and navigate their website. I would call them, they are much better on the phone than their helter-skelter website.

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PostPosted: April 14, 2016, 9:09 am 
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Find your local Fastenal.
You will be able to get Allen Socket screws with long shanks/short threads, and they are high strength. You can buy one or a box of 50.
Dave W


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PostPosted: April 14, 2016, 4:11 pm 
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I love AN hardware. It's only complicated because they come in 1/8" length increments, so there's a lot of numbers involved. You can't specify thread length, but it's always close to half an inch or so, which usually works if you specify the length right. I go to Aircraft Spruce for AN hardware because they give you the sizes in inches. Although they are a little pricey.


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