LocostUSA.com

I'm building using chromoly round tube. I have a full size Bridgeport Mill. But i do not really want to to use this. I would much rather use a tube notcher that uses a drill or sits under a drill press.

Anyone here used one and have a good reccomendation?

Also, did you just use a hole saw? I have never liked these for cutting anything. But end mills are much more expensive and wear faster in this case. I'm looking for a best bang for the buck in this scenario.

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Plans: Single Rotor turbo sub 1000lb machine!

My preferred method is to just use and angle grinder. Its a little more fiddly but I have had zero luck with hole saws especially trying to cut at an angle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbK4QGJ8ZSU

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

I'm a little spoiled these days. I have cut V and ground it out many times before. Using different methods. It's just not how I do things these days.

I've read the Eastwood are hit or miss on quality. But are very cheap at around 80 bucks. I would love to get the JD2 Notch master. But at 270ish, I'm not sure I would use it enough to justify the cost. I have their JD2 bender, which is very good quality. But it holds my welding jacket up most of the year...

I priced out making one myself. Not really worth it at that point. Ideally, I would love to find an older used one.

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Plans: Single Rotor turbo sub 1000lb machine!

I went through the exact same thought process regarding getting tubes bent. I could have bought a bender for what I paid to have them bent, and ordinarily would have gone that way. The thing about a bender is, like the above, it's something very specialized and therefore hardly ever used in most of our garages. Then there's that I simply don't have room to store all the stuff I used once then set aside.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

For a quality fit, you won't beat your milling machine. Eastwood depends on which Chinese vendor they stick their name on this week.

For simplicity nothing beats a cutting torch or angle grinder.

You can also get dam fine results with a chop saw if you know what you're doing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHBanmfn_CA

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

Try software like this to make a pattern of the fish mouth you need
http://digitalpipefitter.com/ (free download)
then use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to rough it out and finish with a die grinder (large burr).

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

That's nice. We had to learn to do math in pipefitting class. Divide a pipe into 8 sections and do 4 calculations, 6 if it was an odd angle. Transfer the setbacks onto the pipe and freehand the curve with soapstone.
You can get remarkably good at cutting a 45 degree bevel over a sweeping curve with a bit of practice using nothing but an oxy-acetylene torch.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

I'm definitely not doing it by hand. Those days are over for me...

I might just have to go big time and spend the money on the JD2. I'm sure it will last my lifetime.

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Plans: Single Rotor turbo sub 1000lb machine!

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

I bought from Aircraft Spruce - again not cheap. It worked well with ordinary bi-metallic hole saws, but as Kurt suggests, it hasn't had much use in a long time.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=12812

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

I have the Harbor Freight version of what Warren has (http://www.harborfreight.com/pipe-tubin ... 42324.html). It works well enough. Long pieces are a challenge, but easier if you have an assistant. You often need to do some finish work by hand using files, or you can use a Dremel Tool with burrs attached. The latter is a much better approach, but it's easy to go too far if you use double cut burrs on 16 gauge material.

For $45 it isn't much of a gamble. Just get good quality hole saws like Lennox or similar and lubricate them when you cut. Harbor Freight hole saws will fail almost immediately.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

For roll cage tubing I like a hole saw in the drill press and some sort of device to hole the tube (tube notcher, vise on drill press, etc). The table tilts so I can make it whatever angle it needs to be.

For thinner stuff a bench grinder does just fine. Its rarely worth dealing with a hole saw since its going to require some fitting anyways.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Ive had a Pro Tools HSN-501i for 20 years and have built hundreds, yes, hundreds of rollcages for SCCA, NASA, Rally America and others competitors cars. Hole saw notchers are fantastic if you get a good unit and use it correctly. One standard Lenox hole saw will do an entire rollcage with ease!

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Dan Lipperini Jr
www.RaceLabz.com

i use hole saws in my bridgeport. I buy the hole saws with the built in arbor, then machine the arbor (in the lathe) to fit in a collet. Usually only have to take a little off and it really squares it up nicely. I don't use the drill bit. Then i use an angle finder and clamp it in a vise. Kinda like a giant notcher. Just feed slowly to avoid tearing the teeth off.

Well, I did buy a tubing notcher... it saves so much time to have one as far as I'm concerned it paid for itself.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/