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 Post subject: Re: Coping tube (Round)
PostPosted: February 13, 2017, 11:37 pm 
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The voice of reason
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Joined: January 10, 2008, 4:47 pm
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Location: Massachusetts
I bought the JD2 notcher. I bought one that will allow you to make the notch offset in the tube, don't remember the model name. It's a very good unit and it will make the hole saw do just what you want. The sprint car guys think they get stronger joints when they partially notch thru a tube like the upper rail when the roll bar goes to the floor. That way neither tube is completely cut thru and you get the same amount of weld...

One thing to remember is that hole saws are not really completely round, they tend to have a small flaw where the blade is welded. There will be one or two teeth there that cut a bit wider than the others, this is where you cut will be when it's done. You can put a tube into the jig and recut it if it's too long, even just taking a very small fraction of an inch off - this unit became a milling machine for me almost. But you need to find the one tooth that is widest and realize it will do the cut.

It's worth getting a quality tool like this and the bender. You can resell it on this forum and get most of your money back. I like the idea of the tools going from builder to builder...

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 Post subject: Re: Coping tube (Round)
PostPosted: February 13, 2017, 11:49 pm 
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Joined: July 24, 2008, 9:18 pm
Posts: 224
Sean in CT wrote:
i use hole saws in my bridgeport. I buy the hole saws with the built in arbor, then machine the arbor (in the lathe) to fit in a collet. Usually only have to take a little off and it really squares it up nicely. I don't use the drill bit. Then i use an angle finder and clamp it in a vise. Kinda like a giant notcher. Just feed slowly to avoid tearing the teeth off.


This is what I've done so far. I have a set of tall jaws and various V blocks. Combined with a digital angle finder, it's worked quite well. But I feel like it's a lot of abuse on the quill. It's much cheaper/easier to replace a whole tube notcher than repair the head on my Bridgeport. Seems to be a lot smoother when I've used end mills instead of a hole saw. But a HSS 1.5" end mill dosnt last long cutting chromoly tube. And a Carbide cutter can be the cost of the tube notcher alone.

Ok... you convinced me. JD2 Notcher it is. Lol...

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 Post subject: Re: Coping tube (Round)
PostPosted: February 13, 2017, 11:51 pm 
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Joined: July 24, 2008, 9:18 pm
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horizenjob wrote:
I bought the JD2 notcher. I bought one that will allow you to make the notch offset in the tube, don't remember the model name. It's a very good unit and it will make the hole saw do just what you want. The sprint car guys think they get stronger joints when they partially notch thru a tube like the upper rail when the roll bar goes to the floor. That way neither tube is completely cut thru and you get the same amount of weld...

One thing to remember is that hole saws are not really completely round, they tend to have a small flaw where the blade is welded. There will be one or two teeth there that cut a bit wider than the others, this is where you cut will be when it's done. You can put a tube into the jig and recut it if it's too long, even just taking a very small fraction of an inch off - this unit became a milling machine for me almost. But you need to find the one tooth that is widest and realize it will do the cut.

It's worth getting a quality tool like this and the bender. You can resell it on this forum and get most of your money back. I like the idea of the tools going from builder to builder...



Sell me yours! :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Coping tube (Round)
PostPosted: February 14, 2017, 3:05 am 
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The voice of reason
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Joined: January 10, 2008, 4:47 pm
Posts: 7532
Location: Massachusetts
Sen2two, it's hard for e to imagine anything your hole saw can do will be hard on your Bridgeport. Isn't the quill 4 or 5 inches in diameter?

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SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.


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