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PostPosted: August 2, 2010, 11:26 pm 
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Joined: July 26, 2010, 10:12 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Barrie, Ont, Canada
dhempy wrote:
I was doing a bunch of sanding and grinding on my wife's scooter last night, prepping for paint. Found a tiny little crack, so I grabbed the welder. Flipped down my face shield, pulled the trigger, and :shock: realized :shock: in :shock: 0.010 :shock: seconds :shock: that I was still wearing my clear face shield, not my welding mask.

-dave " 8) " hempy


I cannot tell you how many times I've done that.

Or tried flipping my mask down when I'm not actually wearing anything on my head. Ad started to weld.

Or, Tried flipping my mask down when it's already down.


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PostPosted: August 3, 2010, 12:44 am 
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Always Moore!
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
I'm guilty of the ever popular "oops the trigger finger slipped" (originally performed by John Travolta in Pulp Fiction) while lining things up. Nothing gets the heart going like unintended sparks.

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PostPosted: September 27, 2010, 12:22 am 
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Joined: September 21, 2010, 8:43 pm
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Location: NORTH VANCOUVER, B.C.
never in my 45 years in the steel fabricating and welding business have i ever seen anyone with a work light over their shoulder. maybe i didn't get the joke, this is a joke isn't it????????

look ma , no caps


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PostPosted: October 9, 2010, 12:22 pm 
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Joined: September 25, 2010, 8:40 am
Posts: 19
Location: Arkansas
colvindesign wrote:
Why should Flux Cored welders be avoided?


It does not appear as though this question has been answered and I am wondering the same thing. I read other discussions where someone mentions using flux wire and no one panics or otherwise brings the wrath of Colin Chapman :D . So, is flux ok or not (and i ask this from a safety/strength of build aspect)?

Thanks

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PostPosted: October 9, 2010, 1:17 pm 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
It's messy. That is all.

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PostPosted: October 9, 2010, 2:35 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Flux core is messy alright. For long runs, where you start and stop often to limit warping, the flux residue should be cleaned before the adjacent pass is made. The flux core alos spatters much more. You will be spending time removing that too. It also uses heavier wire. Using the .023 wire (no-flux) and Argon/Co2 gas is just right for 16 ga steel. At least, that is my limited amatuer experience.

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PostPosted: October 9, 2010, 3:13 pm 
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Flux core is expensive, smokey (health hazard), requires weld cleanup, and was developed to allow MIG welding in outdoor/drafty environments. Try it and compare to gas shielded. It takes a little extra care to deliver quality welds due to reduce visibility (my opinion), otherwise strength is not a problem.

You can stick weld 16 ga also. MIG (gas shielded) is just faster and more easily controlled.

I still have some flux core remaining from my first small spool. I'm in the middle of my second 33-lb solid wire spool.


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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 12:58 pm 
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Joined: September 8, 2009, 3:37 pm
Posts: 22
Just a comment regarding auto-darkening welding helmets....

I've got the HF one, it's useable. But, not long ago, one of my guys picked up a Miller Pro-Hobby helmet from the local weldind supply shop. Wow, what a difference between the two. With the HF, I was always loosing track of where I was, clarity just wasn't there. The Miller was much better.

After that experience, I ordered a Pro-Hobby for myself. If you shop around they can be found for ~$125 (vs the $200+ for the one the company picked up at my local supply shop, but it did have a cool Bald Eagle design on it). I'll say it again, it made a really significant improvement in vision clarity.

I know it's not exactly LoCost, but its a tool and safety gear, so it's easier to justify to SWMBO.

'JustDreamin'


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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 1:10 pm 
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Here's the cheapest I could find the ProHobby
http://store.cyberweld.com/miweheprohos3.html

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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 1:11 pm 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
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Another tip (at least for TIG welding) is to get the work really close to your face. I ended up picking up some reading glasses so I can really get in there and watch close up. (Of course on the car it seems like we never can get as close to the weld as we'd like, but that's another story.) Anyhow, when you can get really close to a weld, they can come out really nice:

Image

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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 1:57 pm 
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RacerDan wrote:
Here's the cheapest I could find the ProHobby
http://store.cyberweld.com/miweheprohos3.html

That's where I ordered mine from.

The black helmet is a few bucks cheaper. Not as pretty but a $15 savings can be worth it.

http://store.cyberweld.com/hobhoodblac.html

'JustDreamin'


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PostPosted: November 21, 2010, 12:39 pm 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
'JustDreamin' wrote:
RacerDan wrote:
Here's the cheapest I could find the ProHobby
http://store.cyberweld.com/miweheprohos3.html

That's where I ordered mine from.

The black helmet is a few bucks cheaper. Not as pretty but a $15 savings can be worth it.

http://store.cyberweld.com/hobhoodblac.html

'JustDreamin'

I got the fancy flames one from my local welding supply shop a couple years ago for $150 Canadian. So far I like it a lot. I've seen a few pipeline welders using the same helmet, so it must be reasonably durable too.
Kristian

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PostPosted: December 10, 2010, 11:02 pm 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
Posts: 1231
Location: Connersville, Indiana
To those who are having a problem with their work light triggering the lens to darken, I have found that fluorescent lights do not do that. Curiously, neither does the sun!

Bill


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PostPosted: December 11, 2010, 7:57 am 
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Location: Cave Creek, AZ
Both flourescent light and sunlight trigger my helmets. Hmmm I wonder if I have them set too sensitive or something?

Tom

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PostPosted: December 11, 2010, 10:10 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
Posts: 1231
Location: Connersville, Indiana
Tom, I can look directly at the sun with my cheap HF helmet and it does not darken. I thought the damn thing was broke. Maybe that sensitivity is the price you have to pay if your go first class!

Bill


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