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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 7, 2019, 9:37 pm 
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Joined: October 13, 2011, 9:19 am
Posts: 1291
Location: Denver Co
So an update....

I got the whole clutch thing figured out I think. I just rebuilt the master cylinder and it seems to work.

Now I am getting ready to take the whole car apart, do a few more welds (like reinforce the arm mounts) and get her powder coated. Then redo some wiring and put her back together. Not sure if this new oil pan is doing the trick or not with oil starvation.... not sure how to check either. I probably need more time driving her too to really tell.

While the car is apart I plan on sending the computer in for an upgarde... then I can run ethanol, num num num.

Then paint some body work and call her done.... but probably not. Hahahaha.

Having a lot of fun with the new M235i in the mean time.... it stayed stock for 1mo. :D
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Also survived an accident in the bosses car.
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PostPosted: February 5, 2019, 7:05 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
Start my new job at SPC Monday! Its gonna be sweet!

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You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.


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PostPosted: February 6, 2019, 6:19 am 
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Congratulations! They make some interesting parts.

Replace the oem liquid oil cooler with a thermostat controlled sandwich and air type oil cooler. Put the cooler close to the engine to keep the lines and pressure drop low. This will be much more effective than the liquid type that will only cool to whatever the coolant temp is.

On the clutch hydraulics, does the pedal effort go away or increase when the clutch does not release?I'm guessing you have have braided hose between the master and slave like everything else. It could be the hose is not compatible and is swelling internally, pinching off the flow but this would be a hard pedal. You also may have cooked the slave with the old exhaust routing, boiling the brake fluid which could also damage the slave seals so they are breaking down, making black fluid. Change the seals with a rebuild kit. Add a steel shield above the slave. Flush the lines both ways to ensure there is no debris within that can sometimes block the flow back and forth but again, a blockage would be an increase in pedal pressure.

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PostPosted: July 8, 2019, 8:31 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
So some updates since I finally had some time to work on the car.

First off I noticed I had a broken motor mount (my crappy welds, I was trying to make them really small so that the mating bolts sat flat) so the guys at work lazer cut a new plate and welded it up.
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Once in there I noticed that the turbo housing is right up against the roll tube support bar.
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That sucks and is caused by two things. 1) the B18 has a taller deck height than the B16. 2) the new motor mount is clocked slightly off.

I am able to remove the rear mount and rotate the engine slightly to compensate and it gains me a little. So I guess that will have to do for now.
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Long term I need to figure out what to do with that bar....

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PostPosted: July 8, 2019, 8:40 pm 
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I also took your guys advice and started looking at the radiator mounting for better cooling.

Current
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Maybe new position
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I will need to modify the nose cone mount so that it doesnt go over the radiator and modify the inner nose cone since it hits the radiator end tanks.
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I dont think this will necessarily fix the issue but I wont hurt either. I still need to seal off the bottom of the nose cone and block the upper corners to better force air through the radiator

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