LocostUSA.com

Hi All


I'm about to finish my 3rd Locost this one for youngest son (27) First was built some 15 years ago and i believe was one of first in UK. So have been looking around for new project, and seem to be really taken with the At-om style have read Proximacentauri`s and JonW's along with a few others build logs over and over for last few days, BUT dose any one have any drawings, plans, blueprints, Dimensions, CAD, etc or know where I could download any as I'm not particularly artistic and could spend a awful lot of time and money making scrap

Thank you for any help in advance


Ps sorry if i submit this twice

Steve

HI
found JonW posted some Jig Dimensions at

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=4599&start=0

file is at

download/file.php?id=4710


please help one of the words is lost on me perhaps it dose not travel across pond well the word is "WINTERHALTER" please can someone translate into uk for me please

sorry to appear a half wit its taken me 55 years to get this bad

Steve

That strange 12 letter word is my surname of Germanic origin. The significance of it in that spreadsheet is to show my measurements versus the ones given to me by a gent in Vancouver. We both scaled from photos and came up with reasonably equivalent dimensions.

Sorry, but I would rather build than learn CAD. Proxi has smoved on to more fun things at university (Stanford). He had a CAD file for his car.

Thank you Jon, I was reading more into it, Ameicans and English people have different names for same things, Im a engineer, and could not think what it ment for life of me, will go back to your build posts again and see if i can squeese any more information out of them. If you should hear from Proxi, please could you ask him for me if he still has any Drawings- information that could be of use I could get my hands on, please

Thank you

Steve

Did you want At-om copy specific or an Exoskeleton car?

I'm happy to offer "in my opinion" my easier to build dimensions if the latter, the important ones to get you the bulk of the car underway.

I feel mine is simpler because the 4 main spars are merely 2x 20ft lengths, halved, rolled in a continuous curve (top and lower are different radius though). Add your angle braces, simple Xmembers and bulkheads and you're there.

The rest of the car is then built around that structure to your own design.

Hey Cheapracer

Thank you That would be real kind of you, and a great help, greatly appreciated, I have access to a real nice roll bender, sitting unused after a friend bought it for me to make a garden arbour to grow weeds oops plants over

Steve

Ok, give me a couple of days.

There you go, wife wasn't home tonight, you got lucky and i didn't!

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=12756&p=127080#p127080

Hope it helps

LOL Thank you, all info helps, and sorry you lucked out maybe tonight

I have a set of 60mm rollers in steel for that tube roller so will get started as soon as i find some thinner 60mm tube 2.5 is a little on the heavy side .... shame realy i have 10 6mtr lenghts here

Steve

I don't think 2.5 is that big a deal unless you are going racing and desperate for weight. Look at the advantages, solid feeling, vibration absorption, suspension shock absorption, no doubt about welds, smoother rolling curves etc. as well as it's going to hold together for 20 years. I think you are convincing yourself for the wrong reasons.

On rolling which I do myself, I weld a 25mm tube 'T' piece on the end of each tube and set it to the horizon and keep it there by eye through the process steering like a motorcycle to prevent twist, works well. I always thought you could sit a spirit level on the bars too and watch the bubble but haven't tried it as my rolling machine has a nice easy to see horizontal edge to line up the handlebars with as the tube rolls through.

This is bender i have access to will go so rollers are flat too so no juggeling with tube in air

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/lleskam/DSCF1256.jpg

and the 2 locosts awaiting finishing

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/lleskam/DSCF1260.jpg


Steve

I find plenty of oil helps a lot, especially stops metal pickup from either the tube or the rollers (I learnt this the hard way). I use a paint brush and paint 20 weight machine oil (engine will do) all up and down the tubing and all over the dies. Messy but I wouldn't do it dry again.

I do it in about 8 passes going a 1/4 turn each time but that depends on your thread pitch, too much and can get the dreaded inner radius crinkles and of course putting the tube weld seams to one side helps avoid that too.

Those 2 flat guide rollers are a good idea, may have to add them to my old agricultural unit!

made some 7` arches with mate he did them in 4 passes 180 degrees, in my photo pucket are more pictures of toys i have made, cheapracer, do you have drawings for front and rear subframes by any chance?


steve

As I had a unique suspension arrangement so only some of the front layout will help you, I'll draw it up over the next few days. It also depends if you followed my main spa layout how high and what angle you decide to use that at.

As I mentioned, easiest would be to just lay your engine and seats on the ground and build a floor pan plan around them while deciding about your lower control arms although I strongly recommend a DeDion for the rear.

My floor pan was out of 30mm x 30mm x 2mm box tube main rails and 25mm box for seat runners, bracing etc.

I'll take some helpful photos for you soon.

Is it soon yet??