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PostPosted: July 31, 2018, 11:01 am 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
I originally had issues with my cooling system too. In my locost I've got a radiator cap on the radiator as well as one on the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing is my high point, so I ran a tube from there to my overflow tank. On the radiator I blocked the overflow fitting and put a higher pressure cap, thinking it would never vent or or suck air from that one. Turns out I was wrong on that. I kept losing coolant and having to top it up until I got smart and ran both rad cap overflows to the overflow bottle. Now it actually sucks coolant back in to the engine when it cools off instead of just sucking in air. If I did it again I would arrange things a bit differently. The way my radiator sits it's almost impossible to get all the air out of the system.
Kristian

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PostPosted: July 31, 2018, 7:56 pm 
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Joined: July 30, 2015, 9:05 am
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Location: Mooresville, NC
Saying that it's getting hot in the garage, does this mean as it up to t-stat temp (as that's normal) or it starts overheating?

Have you drawn vacuum on the system to burp it? Have you verified pressure in the system? Do you have any high points that could trap air?

High points in the system was actually an issue we initially had on the GT car. Had several bleed points but now we're getting into race car cooling systems which differ from what you'd want on a toy/street car.

Also for the ducting, watch your cross sectional areas but a good overview on shaping:
http://www.glasairproject.com/GlasairI/ ... stems2.htm

I would absolutely have a flat bottom in that nose. I'd seal around the radiator so that you can for the high pressure area in front of the radiator and keep it there. I'd then potentially look into putting slight scoops leading further towards the nose for nostrils you have. This will keep the high pressure in better, and keep it from bleeding out and around the car.

The next big thing is to get air in, you have to get air out. If you have crap flow downstream of the radiator, it isn't going to get good airflow through it.

Do you have any CAD model section views of what you have in the nose of the car?

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PostPosted: July 31, 2018, 9:20 pm 
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Joined: October 13, 2011, 9:19 am
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Location: Denver Co
The car will warm up to about 195-200°c before I can actually see the thermostat open by watching the radiator temp sensor. Once the rad and engine temps match, I can get both to go higher by running the car above 3k.

The header tank is the highest point in the system.

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PostPosted: July 31, 2018, 11:10 pm 
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Homemade WRX wrote:

Also for the ducting, watch your cross sectional areas but a good overview on shaping:
http://www.glasairproject.com/GlasairI/ ... stems2.htm



That article & drawing keep referencing WING. I see where that could be the shape of the bottom of the duct work, but since it's for a plane could it be the plane's wing? But the plane's wing is no where near the radiator duct.

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PostPosted: August 1, 2018, 1:20 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
In my experience working with cooling systems from ~85HP to ~3000HP engines you should see around a 20 degree drop across the radiator. Some will say there is only a 10 degree drop across a radiator. Do you have a temp gun? Shoot the inlet and out temps, the outlet should be around 20 degrees cooler than the inlet.
Are you running a 50/50 coolant mix?
What is the pressure of your coolant system? 1 pound should increase boiling point around 3 degrees, a 12lb rad cap increases boiling point to 238F

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PostPosted: August 2, 2018, 10:53 am 
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Joined: July 30, 2015, 9:05 am
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Location: Mooresville, NC
mjalaly wrote:
The car will warm up to about 195-200°c before I can actually see the thermostat open by watching the radiator temp sensor. Once the rad and engine temps match, I can get both to go higher by running the car above 3k.

The header tank is the highest point in the system.


Surely you mean 195-200°F

So where is the temp sensor in reference to t-stat. T-stat should be opening at it's rated temp.

My point in asking about high points is that they can hold bubbles. If it goes down, then back up, and then back down, there is a chance to hold air. This is why I asked if you've drawn vacuum on the system...or to ad bleeds.

If you're getting high temps with RPM, you might also want to check pressures or see about adding an electric pump to help circulate.

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PostPosted: August 4, 2018, 8:18 pm 
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Joined: October 13, 2011, 9:19 am
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Location: Denver Co
Still working on the overheating... meaning I haven't had time to drive it.

I did get the new headlights reprinted with my new design and they are strong. No issue with them breaking now.

Attachment:
20180731_054042-2016x1512.jpg


Attachment:
20180804_174950-2016x1512.jpg


New fender mold is also done!!

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PostPosted: September 23, 2018, 4:22 pm 
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So I tried taking the car out the other day (first time since the last failure) and I got just a few blocks before the clutch pedal when soft again. The reservoir is full but black and no visible leaks which the black fluid would indicate. Any thoughts on what it might be? Main cylinder, slave cylinder or something else?? I can try the bleeding the whole thing but that's what I did last time.

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PostPosted: September 23, 2018, 5:06 pm 
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To me, black fluid says the brake fluid is attacking the cylinder seals, either M/C (most likely) or at the slave cyl. If no leaks can be found, for sure it is m/c IMO.

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PostPosted: September 23, 2018, 10:23 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
I bought a rebuild kit for it and one of the brake cylinders since it is also black. Why would they both fail? They are not old and are barely used.

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PostPosted: September 23, 2018, 10:28 pm 
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Are your seals compatible with the brake fluid you are using?


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PostPosted: September 23, 2018, 10:56 pm 
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I'm using standard DOT 3 so I dont see why that might be an issue. Could be so I will do a bit of research.

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PostPosted: January 7, 2019, 12:27 pm 
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Joined: March 15, 2018, 6:03 am
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Hi mjalaly
I've been working through your build log for a few weeks and, first, want to offer my support that your engine woes will soon be over - you have a great build there.
I wonder if I might crave your indulgence as I'm working on a rear-engine design as well and am worried about the aesthetic proportions. If you have a few spare minutes could you look at my drawing and let me know how my dimensions compare with yours, please...?

Attachment:
Mangpong-pr.gif


I don’t need accurate figures, because I'm not trying to copy your design - I only have three wheels, and the body is a different style and will be (I think) much longer than yours.
I am particularly interested in the red dimensions, ‘A’ - ‘F’

Sorry if this catches you at a busy time - your work should come first.

Many thanks, Mangpong.


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PostPosted: January 7, 2019, 7:11 pm 
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waltj wrote:
Are your seals compatible with the brake fluid you are using?


The only "incompatible" I ever ran into was from British cars. At least, an Austin and a Triumph. Ordinary DOT3 fluid would turn the rubber bits to jelly.


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PostPosted: January 7, 2019, 9:25 pm 
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MangPong wrote:
Hi mjalaly
I've been working through your build log for a few weeks and, first, want to offer my support that your engine woes will soon be over - you have a great build there.
I wonder if I might crave your indulgence as I'm working on a rear-engine design as well and am worried about the aesthetic proportions. If you have a few spare minutes could you look at my drawing and let me know how my dimensions compare with yours, please...?

Attachment:
Mangpong-pr.gif


I don’t need accurate figures, because I'm not trying to copy your design - I only have three wheels, and the body is a different style and will be (I think) much longer than yours.
I am particularly interested in the red dimensions, ‘A’ - ‘F’

Sorry if this catches you at a busy time - your work should come first.

Many thanks, Mangpong.


My car is in my neighbors garage at the moment until the guys finish removing the rafters in my garage for a lift. Once I put it back I can get you rough measurements.

It looks nice over there....


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