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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 3:08 pm 
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i will let you know what I find in a few hours. Either way i think it is time for a Canton/Moroso Oil pan and Accusump. 

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 7:32 pm 
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All bad news


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PostPosted: September 6, 2017, 7:41 am 
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Well the GOOD news is.
I would say you shut it down soon enough, looking at the pictures posted that a .010 under crank grind should clean things up.
I have never send a bearing with a square burnish mark in it. Is there $hit under the bearing shell or is there an embedded piece in the bearing?
Dave W


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PostPosted: September 6, 2017, 9:19 am 
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davew wrote:
Well the GOOD news is.
I would say you shut it down soon enough, looking at the pictures posted that a .010 under crank grind should clean things up.
I have never send a bearing with a square burnish mark in it. Is there $hit under the bearing shell or is there an embedded piece in the bearing?
Dave W


I'm not sure which pic you are referring too but several bearings had bearing material on them. The bad news is that the crank has already been turned to its max so it is toast. With that being out of the pic, the rods and pistons too need to be replaced since they were custom to that crank... mainly the pistons. It the rods are good, i can use them on another engine build. The B18.

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PostPosted: September 6, 2017, 9:27 am 
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Man this has to be oil starvation considering I built that bottom end my self, mic'd all of the journals and bearings and then had a buddy of mine verify all of the plasti-gage measurements with me just to be sure.

Attachment:
20170203_142259.jpg

Attachment:
20170203_142321.jpg




Like my tuner said, "how hard are you cornering?!" I replied "have you seen my car?! I corner like a boss".

I think at this point, i am going to toss in a cheap (if i can find one) stock block. Then add an accusump, a larger 6 door oil pan, oil pressure sensor (maybe 2) and see if it happens again.


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PostPosted: September 8, 2017, 2:39 pm 
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Looks like I will be ordering a new block today from 4pistonracing. My "sponsor" will be paying for it.
http://www.4pistonracing.com/bshortblock-street

On top of that I will be adding the larger oil pan and the accusump. Anything else I should try?

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PostPosted: September 8, 2017, 4:18 pm 
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Make really sure that the pan will work - I recommend seeing what others have found that works.

I had and didn't like the Accusump. It has no defense against oil aeration, which effectively lowers the density of the oil, potentially to the point that the insulating "oil wedge" between the bearings and crank can get squeezed out. Really, the only right way of doing it is a dry sump. If you can't or won't go there, really look into what road-racing K24 or B18-engined cars use.

FWIW, Honda sells a K-series engine to the sport-racing crowd and it uses a dry sump. There's a reason for that.

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PostPosted: September 8, 2017, 4:25 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
Make really sure that the pan will work - I recommend seeing what others have found that works.

I had and didn't like the Accusump. It has no defense against oil aeration, which effectively lowers the density of the oil, potentially to the point that the insulating "oil wedge" between the bearings and crank can get squeezed out. Really, the only right way of doing it is a dry sump. If you can't or won't go there, really look into what road-racing K24 or B18-engined cars use.

FWIW, Honda sells a K-series engine to the sport-racing crowd and it uses a dry sump. There's a reason for that.


Yeah the dry sump is just too much $$$. Most of the road race guys say with the larger trap door style pans, they are fine. Most are fine with a baffled pan like mine and over filling it.
https://www.ek9.org/index.php?threads/l ... ing.57818/

I posted something on the honda road race forum but like others have said, they may not be pulling turns as hard as me.

I can always monitor it and stop if something scares me. What i would really like to find is an accelerometer that i can data log along with oil pressure in hondata.

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PostPosted: September 8, 2017, 5:19 pm 
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Your tablet should have an IMU in it, which you can datalog with an app. The orientation would need to be calibrated, but some apps allow that. Otherwise, you can run the math on the logged output to get true lateral G-force out of it.

If not, how many analog inputs do you have with hondata? A 0-5V 3 axis accelerometer breakout board is cheap to come by, and could be situated wherever you wanted.

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PostPosted: September 8, 2017, 10:28 pm 
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300D50 wrote:
Your tablet should have an IMU in it, which you can datalog with an app. The orientation would need to be calibrated, but some apps allow that. Otherwise, you can run the math on the logged output to get true lateral G-force out of it.

If not, how many analog inputs do you have with hondata? A 0-5V 3 axis accelerometer breakout board is cheap to come by, and could be situated wherever you wanted.


Yeah I don't know how much I trust the tablet but I do have a few 3axis accelerometers lying around that I can try.

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PostPosted: September 9, 2017, 3:47 pm 
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That's terrible news, sorry to hear that.

What weight oil have you been running? We just talked about this with regards to Wrightcomputing's engine. I think you need an oil temp gauge. Maybe you also need an adjustable oil pressure warning switch. Something that you can set for 30 lbs. or something like that. You should be able to see an oil pressure light even while your cornering. Might be harder on an open air car though.

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PostPosted: September 9, 2017, 4:16 pm 
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I was running Lukas break in oil which i had planned on changing after 500mi.

The oil temp is pretty well regulated with the built in oil cooling on the motor but a temp gauge woulnt hurt I suppose.

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PostPosted: September 9, 2017, 8:28 pm 
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I'm mostly concerned with how quickly the oil warms up. If you can just rig up a temporay sensor and see how long it tkaes to warm the oil idling in the driveway that will give you an idea. You might have something from a lab that would work while standing still. I have one in my formula car and it takes a lot longer than the coolant to warm up. If you are using thicker oil ( the viscosity is what I was wondering about ) the pump may not be able to pull it up the pickup tube fast enough before it warms up. That was the thing my engine builder used to lecture me on...

I think Wrightcomputing runs a Honda motor too.
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=19033

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PostPosted: September 9, 2017, 9:59 pm 
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Thanks for the link. Based on what was said here and from a bit of research I am going to skip the accusump and do the following


• Canton large capacity trap door oil pan
• Ported oil pump
• Oil pressure sensor that I can datalog in hondata with an adjustable dummy light (I might actually be able to rig the theft prevention function to the oil pressure switch so that the car won't start until a set pressure is achieved)
• Oil temp sensor
• Add an accelerometer to data log against oil pressure

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PostPosted: September 10, 2017, 1:16 am 
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The Borg Warner S4201 is good from 0-135 PSI.
0-5V output, 5V input.
They run about $25.00 from the auto parts store, and are fuel/oil rated. The connector is the same as GM TPS, and a Pico 5643PT pigtail will work.

Take the output voltage, subtract .5V, then multiply by 30, and you get PSI

Major savings over some of the aftermarket options.

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