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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 12, 2016, 3:53 pm 
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they said the pistons are junk too because of the scoring around the ringlands.


Well one thing here is that the machine shop is not in the business of selling you pistons, so there opinion may not have that kind of bias. Can't hurt to get the opinion of the piston MFG...

Good luck...

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PostPosted: December 14, 2016, 4:52 pm 
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Pistons are on their way to Arias. I ended up paying $82 on the other block and i cant even use it... ; ( but that's $82 with a piece of mind i guess. My tuner is trying to track down another good block to work with.

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PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 4:09 pm 
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UPDATE:

Pistons checked out fine by arias and i have the back with a new polish, rings and spirol locks.

I also have a good engine block. The shop said the line hone was good but the bores were .020 over so they are going to re-sleeve it and bore it to spec. It should be done this week

So now i just need to pick up a ring compressor, ring filer, bearings and plastigage.

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PostPosted: January 31, 2017, 12:02 pm 
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for an update. I built kind of a paint booth in the garage to do some spraying on a mold and it worked out rather well. It just kept all of the crap out of my garage ; )

I also semi completed the engine cover plug. I need to packing tape the center, add a flange and pull a mold.

Lastly the engine block is back and pretty. All the parts are are balanced and are here so I am going to start building her up! Additionally, I picked up a dial bore indicator to make sure everything is right on the money and I will double check that with the pastigage.


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PostPosted: February 1, 2017, 10:01 am 
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about to get started. wish me luck!


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PostPosted: February 1, 2017, 4:04 pm 
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Shiny!!

Good luck, be sure to have all the torque specs handy. I'm sure you got this.

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PostPosted: February 1, 2017, 6:25 pm 
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Got all the rings done and assemblied the pistons and rods. I ended up making a fixture to precision grind the rings to size under a scope. I wasn't stoked about the $70 filler I bought.

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PostPosted: February 6, 2017, 10:48 am 
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got more of it done with my helper.

I pulled the old engine to transfer a few things and now I just need to torque the head down, install the cams, covers and timing belts.


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PostPosted: February 6, 2017, 11:45 pm 
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Looking good, hopefully this one lasts a bit longer.
Kristian

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PostPosted: February 8, 2017, 3:08 pm 
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turbo_bird wrote:
Looking good, hopefully this one lasts a bit longer.
Kristian


right!!!

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PostPosted: February 9, 2017, 1:58 pm 
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Also, any other changes you guys would make to ensure the bearings survive?

I did pick up a PLX temp sensor to monitor the intercooler temps a bit better.

PS.... and i am thinking about removing the resinator right after the turbo and just doing a straight 2.5" pipe. Thoughts? Sound vs Power? I really would like to keep everything as quite as possible (and not have some funky drone). You can see if in this pic


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PostPosted: February 11, 2017, 7:27 pm 
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I worked on the shock cover the past few days. I didn't come out so well since there were two little pin holess in the mold but this was my test piece so no big deal. Since I sprayed a 2k in the mold before doing the layup, the pin holes are trapped below the surface (3rd pic). Again no biggie I am just not sure if I want to do an IMC with the nice CF.

The only thing I don't like is how it terminates over the dash. Open for suggestions here (1st pic)


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PostPosted: February 11, 2017, 10:25 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
...The only thing I don't like is how it terminates over the dash. Open for suggestions here (1st pic)

Space it up 1/8-1/4", call it a feature and move on.

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PostPosted: February 11, 2017, 10:31 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
mjalaly wrote:
...The only thing I don't like is how it terminates over the dash. Open for suggestions here (1st pic)

Space it up 1/8-1/4", call it a feature and move on.


I dont follow. I figured I would trim some for each of the curved corners so that it sits down a bit and blends into the dash cover.

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