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Hey Mo,

Check these guys out for Moly and Mild : http://www.cmironmetalco.com/ ...... Nice guys and Drag racers to boot.

This company in Aurora sells tubing and they have a TruLazer Tube 5000: http://www.tubeservice.com/

I also know individuals who can do all or part of your chassis or if you do it yourself then I've got a HF Tube Roller and a steel welding table for sale ......PM me if your interested.

Mo, As long as your having fun and progressing w/ the project, then no worries.

Sweet. I am familiar with the first place but not the 2nd place, thanks! Know of any good cnc benders in the area? I am having no luck with finding any.

Cool get it. it may kill the looks but if it makes it stiffer then that weights a lot.

well, you have to experiment with FEA and see where you have most flex..
You will probably have most problems with the driver/passenger area.. as you have a big open space... Side structure (check my build), or really large top tubes will give you more torsional stiffness..

Regarding frame FEA, it might not make much difference int results, but maybe see what happens when using the bare minimum number of constraints. To do so you I would typically restrain one rear node in the vertical, lateral, and longitudinal directions, the other rear node in the vertical and longitudinal directions only, and one of the front noes in the vertical direction only. Then apply the load to the other front node. To the best of my knowledge, anything more than this is technically over constraining the system which can potentially cause less accurate results.

*deleted*

Its over - let it go.

I too want to hear about these projects. If they flop and nothing happens, fine. But if they succeed and they result in a great build, with interesting info, I sure as hell want to be able to read about it here!

There definintely is a certain sense of irony when the topic of "ego" is brought up as an insult on this forum...

This company in Aurora sells tubing and they have a TruLazer Tube 5000: http://www.tubeservice.com/


Man O man. this company could pump out enough cut "7" frames in a day to satisfy the entire world. Sweet machine!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for posting. Russ

I dropped the lower curved tubes down like you said... but i am not sure i can live with the looks. Any other thoughts to add torsional rigidity? I think the At-om uses the bucket to add slight rigidity as that would seem logical but i am not sure.

No FEA yet, it is having issues with a mirror and trim that i cannot seem to fix. Stay posted for those results.

Suspension Pics




Front Lower Control Arm


Lower Control Arm Spherical Brearing housing (Aurora High Missalignment Bearing HBT-8T)

So, to make this i need to fixture it and interpolate the post for the carbon tubing. My buddy suggested that i press stainless pins in instead but i cannot find a pull out force equation that would make me confident that it would work. Has any one ran across something like that before?? The other option would be to pin the pin from the side by drilling it after it is pressed in. Open for suggestions.



Working on something like this with a tbar anti roll design. It would save a lot of packaging issues and it would be much more simple if i want to change the spring rate. My opt K licence expired so i need to find anther way to finish the layout. Maybe Susprog3d??

For the bolt that holds the LBJ to the upright, will you be threading the bolt directly into aluminum?

Its hard to tell from the rendering - is the shoulder that the spherical rests against at the top or bottom of the spherical housing?

As I recall, for the pull out force it is simply the surface area of the bond (assuming a properly controlled bond gap ) times the shear strength of the adhesive (Hysol perhaps). IF I'm understanding your question correctly. I can check with the carbon guys at work.

Correct, the bolt (with safety wire hole) will be threaded into the upright. I may put a helicoil in there for added strenght but that may not be necessary right now. The other design change i was considering was to add more room for conical spacers for a higher missalighment angle.

A.moore does this pic clarify your question?

the shoulder should be on top..