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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 9:36 am 
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mjalaly wrote:
I did try that... it was #3 blown engine.

I just drained the oil and I am measuring about 206in^3 or 3.5 quarts so not a ton, if any, was lost. So it's not like the main seal blew and it ran out of oil. 

oil also looks good and when I ran a magnet through it, not a single piece of metal cams out but that doesn't mean it's not stuck in the pan but you would think something would have come out.

I am wondering if some type of pressure force the main seal out....

I have been checking for leaks, blow by etc after everydrive and nothing has shown up. 


Do you have a catch can? Just a vent? Adding a turbo to a non-turbo engine can add pressure to the crank case via the PCV system. Sorry if it was already covered, I looked through a bunch of the build but didn't see it. Great build btw.


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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 9:46 am 
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Car Sick wrote:
mjalaly wrote:
I did try that... it was #3 blown engine.

I just drained the oil and I am measuring about 206in^3 or 3.5 quarts so not a ton, if any, was lost. So it's not like the main seal blew and it ran out of oil. 

oil also looks good and when I ran a magnet through it, not a single piece of metal cams out but that doesn't mean it's not stuck in the pan but you would think something would have come out.

I am wondering if some type of pressure force the main seal out....

I have been checking for leaks, blow by etc after everydrive and nothing has shown up. 


Do you have a catch can? Just a vent? Adding a turbo to a non-turbo engine can add pressure to the crank case via the PCV system. Sorry if it was already covered, I looked through a bunch of the build but didn't see it. Great build btw.


yes there is a catch can.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 9:51 am 
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Do any of you guys know where I can send the bearings and other parts to be analysed?

I am wondering if the engine being stoked is causing problems... i really dont know at this point.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 11:18 am 
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mjalaly wrote:
Dunno. I was out on the highway with the wife and all of a sudden it started to loose power. Coolant temps were fine right before that... around 190. Once I stopped her i noticed oil coming out of the main seal, fuel pressure was really high and smoke from the catch can so I'm pretty sure a bearing went...

High fuel pressure is really puzzling. I assume the regulator uses MAP as reference? Assuming the regulator didn't fail outright, it means MAP shot upward - somehow - so a lot more fuel would be injected into the engine, making it run poorly. If you were cruising when it happened (drawing a vacuum in the intake) and the regulator hose came off, MAP would increase, fuel would increase, and it would run bad.

You don't need to the bearings analyzed to know if they caused the problem - if they did they'd be blue from oil starvation. How about posting up pictures.

Sounds like the engine's already torn-down(!) but a compression test would have been very helpful.

FWIW, my catch can vent always smokes a little, so that doesn't seem like a problem assuming it's not a *lot* of smoke.

You know, based upon what you've found so far, there's a chance that there's nothing wrong with the engine.

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Last edited by KB58 on September 5, 2017, 11:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 11:23 am 
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KB58 wrote:
mjalaly wrote:
Dunno. I was out on the highway with the wife and all of a sudden it started to loose power. Coolant temps were fine right before that... around 190. Once I stopped her i noticed oil coming out of the main seal, fuel pressure was really high and smoke from the catch can so I'm pretty sure a bearing went...

High fuel pressure is really puzzling. I assume the regulator uses MAP as reference? Assuming the regulator didn't fail outright, it means MAP shot upward - somehow - so a lot more fuel would be injected into the engine, making it run poorly.

You don't need to the bearings analyzed to know if they caused the problem - if they did they'd be blue from oil starvation. How about posting up pictures.

You know, based upon what you've found so far, there's a chance that there's nothing wrong with the engine.


yes you are right. I have no clue why the hell the fuel pressure gage was pinged. That doesn't make sense.

I plan on removing the oil pan later and looking at things.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 11:24 am 
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Read my post again - you quoted it just as I was adding more stuff.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 11:28 am 
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all I have done so far is to remove the oil.

I cant do a compression test it the motor wont move which is what was happening when i tired to start her up a second time.

The catch can smoke was a bot more than normal but not like the last time i blew the motor and smoke was pouring out.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 11:31 am 
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Engine won't move as in seized? If so, that indicates rings or bearings. If it's the rings, the failure typically generates so much friction and heat that it instantly vaporizes the coolant and a coolant line explodes (seen it happen), so that seems unlikely.

Inspect the sparkplugs, that can tell you a lot.

With them still out, put a wrench on the front pulley and attempt to turn the engine. If it's stuck, unfortunately it means the engine's done and either the rings or bearings are seized.

Did you do any hard cornering since installing this engine? Honda K-series engines get into trouble in hard left turns because the oil sloshes to the right - toward the front pulley and cam chain, where the chain acts like an elevator and lifts a bunch of oil up out of the pan, leading to starvation in long turns. Either an Accusump or dry sump is the right way around that (or maybe a properly baffled pan).
I realize there's not much point in mentioning this now though...

Yeah, pop off the main caps and check the bearings, but not having anything in the oil is promising.

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Last edited by KB58 on September 5, 2017, 11:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 11:52 am 
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KB58 wrote:
Engine won't move as in seized? If so, that's usually due to the rings or bearings. If it's the rings, the failure typically generates so much friction and heat that it instantly vaporizes the coolant and a coolant line explodes (seen it happen).

To rule out a starter issue, put a wrench on the front pulley and attempt to turn the engine. If it's stuck, unfortunately it means the engine's done and either the rings - or more likely the bearings seized up.

Did you do any hard cornering since installing this engine? If so, there's a strong likelihood that oil starvation in a turn could have initiated bearing failure. At this point however, yeah, pop off the main caps to check the bearings.


As far as I can tell, yes the engine wasn't turning when i hit the start button. The starter just clicked. When i pulled over she shut down and wouldn't start again so that is why i am thinking a blown motor. I know to put a wrench on and check, i just haven't got that far.

Yes I did some hard corning but the pan is baffled. If corning caused it to fail then it would have failed once I stared to corner her hard so its moot right now. Only thing more I can do to resolve that is a dry sump which is stupid expensive. Not sure if an accusump would help at this point.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 11:58 am 
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Again, I keep editing my post and adding more, see above.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 12:09 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
Again, I keep editing my post and adding more, see above.


haha

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 12:13 pm 
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Though unlikely, it's remotely possible that the transmission seized, but with the clutch in and increased smoke from the breather, seems unlikely.

Just removing the pan and looking at the tops of the caps will probably tell you. If it seized, the friction generates so much heat that one or more will be blue.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 12:29 pm 
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correct, pretty much like how my old rods looked. :BH:

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 12:41 pm 
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If this also happened on the dead-stock engine, that tells me it's oil starvation, probably due to cornering. Short of outright failure, the bearings can get overheated and undergo accelerated wear and failure days or weeks later. Of course it could also be the engine builder using overly tight clearances, which should be on the build sheet.

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PostPosted: September 5, 2017, 12:58 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
If this also happened on the dead-stock engine, that tells me it's oil starvation, probably due to cornering. Short of outright failure, the bearings can get overheated and undergo accelerated wear and failure days or weeks later. Of course it could also be the engine builder using overly tight clearances, which should be on the build sheet.


I built this on by hand.

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