gregk wrote:
The big problem with the "backwards drivetrain thing" is the torque split of the center differential. 4WD and AWD truck transfer cases, afaik, all have torque splits of between 40f/60r and 35f/65r. Once you turn them around you have a torque split in in the neighborhood of 60f:40r in a car with rearward weight (read: traction) distribution. The end result is going to be power induced understeer all over the place.
Offroad vehicles with backwards drivetrains like the Baja Boot, or any number of Ultra4 buggies use a selectable transfer case with no center differential at all. That's a wonderful thing if you're offroading, but it's unacceptable in a road going car with sporting pretensions.
To do it properly you'd need a custom transfer case, or a Lamborghini donor car.
For a different approach, you might want to check out this thread. This one has a 50/50 torque split, but it's probably around a 35/65 weight distribution.
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17516That approach, but with a FWD+haldex style drivetrain (with a programmable controller) probably has the most potential, assuming you can find one that's suitable.
Not necessarily true, the Subaru, Nissan and Honda automatic transaxle systems normally operate at 90/10 F/R, which when flipped around would give you a 90R/10F till needed.
The Subaru manual transaxles are all 50/50 split, with torque appropriation between 20/80 and 80/20, as there is no way to fully lock the center diff.
I once heard rumors of a set up like this.. with a B20B manual driveline from a 98 CRV, and an F20C, but the guy used straight cut gears in his transmission, and I'm not sure what he did for the now front, rear end.
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Tucker
Driven5 wrote:
Forced Induction + Magic Spinning Doritos = EMod