LocostUSA.com

I have been researching for the past 6-8 months of how to build a locost type car and have come to the conclusion that I’m going to try building a mid-engine version of a locost. Not just a DIY type mid-engine car like Meerkat by Alan Bertwistle or the La Bala by Steve Graber, but one based more on the locost chassis with some changes to the rear end of the car (a little longer). Sylva has already done this with their Mojo and R1ot and the end result seems to be very nice.

The donor car that I have chosen will be a first generation Dodge Neon. The reason I chose this car is because:
1) Lot’s of them around at a fairly decent cost (I have a daily driver that I paid $1300 for and may become my donor)
2) Engine has plenty of upgradeable speed parts to get it up to around 200 HP N/A and closer to 300 HP when turboed.
3) Very low engine height for a FWD car

I’m planning to use the front strut suspension and lower control arms in the rear (low cost) and creating a typical locost front end. I plan to put the fuel cell, radiator, battery in front to help balance out weight. The engine will be stripped of power steering and A/C.

I’m planning to build a ¼ scale wood model as a planning tool and will build a ¼ scale engine to help with designing fitment into the mid engine bay.

Any comments while I’m still in the planning phase?

are you sure you want the large Mcpherson struts sticking up over your chassis?

Howdy and welcome to the forum. It's strange that you have this idea, as the exact same thing flashed througn my mind when I saw the Ar-i-el At-om with the Civic engine. I have owned and raced several 1st gen Neons from road racing to autocross to drag racing and I am pretty familair with the little cars. I have extra DOHC motors and parts cluttering up my garage anyway. One good thing I noticed about the Neon is that the mass of the engine sits well in front of the front wheels rather than back between them. When mounting this engine/tranny combo in the rear it would certainly help get the COG up closer to the front. The other positive from this offset is that it may allow sufficient room to fabricate upper control arms. If so you could pitch the struts.

Neons bolt patterns are 5x100 and I don't know of a rwd vehicle with that pattern to harvest front spindles from. I wonder if you could use the Neon's front knuckle. You would have to make a balljoint to strut mount "box" adapter for the top, and it would be heavy as hell but it would work.

I think it's a great idea and I wish you the best of luck.

I agree with chetcpo. It would make a good donor for a rear engine drivetrain, and more power to you if you can use the same front suspension, mcphearson struts and all. I think that you'll have to look into making an upper balljoint adapter for an extra set of neon front knuckles.

I would also try and shorten the nose section to counter the elongated trunk area.

My idea of keeping it "locost" is to make the car similar to the one photoshopped by akumabito (9th post on the page) http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=30627&page=8

I may want to move the seats forward a little more, but it will actually depend on the location of the engine.

The front struts are not higher than the engine in the Neon, so I don't see this being a problem.

I also like the idea of using the Neon's front knuckles since these would be reasonably cheap and would mate up well with the steering rack.

Keep the ideas and comments coming.......

I often thought about it as I've got a 2000 Neon - my impressions are that its quite a nice little motor - just searching for a much lighter car. My biggest stumbling block on making a middie one off would be all the custom body work.

I think that greenmark is going for more of a sevenesque middie, seven style bodywork with an engine in the trunk area. the only real changes to the bodywork would be an engine cover for the trunk taht would be easily accessible, and of course shorten the front a bit, the hood and the aluminum side pannels would just be shorter.

derf is correct (AGAIN?) - I'm looking to keep the car looking very much sevenish so as to use as much body panels and other items that have already been utilized for "conventional" locosts.

Possibly like this ONE???

http://www.grmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=7003&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=mid+locost&start=32

The Skip Barber open wheel race cars use the SOHC Neon engine. I'll bet those little suckers will fly.

http://www.rs-racing.net/images/skip1.JPG

ah well standard bodywork should be ok then. For some reason I can't find myself liking mid engine locosts with Seven bodywork. Personal bias I think since mine will be an old school look to it.

That Skip Bardar car is awesome. I need one of those!

Very cool idea....

Did ya know...

A honda civic (2003ish/2004ish) is only 27 inches tall at the hoodline so it would let you keep a low profile. Not sure where the engine is center in relation to the axels through. Or if they are still using cabled gear shifts or wether you would have problems making linkage

Cool Idea though....PLEASE keep us posted

Does the fuel cell,move to the front? where do you envision the radiator going? Staying put or moving rear ward?

_________________
I'll keep an eye out for you!

To err is human...
I am more human than most.

Hey here's an idea, put a drivetrain both up front and out back too.

I ment mounted in the back end

...but now that I think about it ....

Mounted in your back end is better.

(Dont worry it is just a joke)

Moderators start your engines...

_________________
I'll keep an eye out for you!

To err is human...
I am more human than most.

The Pontiac Fiero has 5x100mm bolt pattern. They apparently have the same spindle as a chevette.

Robert

Damn it D you've been huffing too much Great Stuff fumes. I can't speak for Greenmark but if I were doing it I would put the radiator up front and use lots of plumbing.

Ostdi, thanks for pointing out that the spindles from the Fiero could be used. I thought the Chevette spindles were 4 x 100. (some 95 Neons had this pattern also FWIW) Maybe the spindle/knuckle/upright is the same and there are different hubs available.