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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 11, 2017, 9:44 pm 
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Joined: September 28, 2010, 10:41 am
Posts: 29
That car is looking good. You nailed the stance.

For the belt- up from the crank, smooth side of the belt over the PS pump, then loop around the alternator (ribbed side), across the water pump (ribbed side), complete the circuit and the crank. Extendbthe tensioner arm with a smaller pulley? Apply pressure between the water pump and crank on the smooth side of the belt. I don't how short of a belt that is but I bet there's one out there. Can you clock the spring in the tensioner


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PostPosted: February 12, 2017, 2:34 am 
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Funkatollah wrote:
That car is looking good. You nailed the stance.

For the belt- up from the crank, smooth side of the belt over the PS pump, then loop around the alternator (ribbed side), across the water pump (ribbed side), complete the circuit and the crank. Extendbthe tensioner arm with a smaller pulley? Apply pressure between the water pump and crank on the smooth side of the belt. I don't how short of a belt that is but I bet there's one out there. Can you clock the spring in the tensioner


Thanks for the support Funk. I'm not sure your routing would give adequate engagement on the ps pump. If I understand your routing right, then the ps pump would only have ~60 deg of belt wrapped on it.

I'm thinking I just need some sort of idler up toward where the ac compressor was and a tensioner above and between the water pump and ps pump, then the routing would work. But that is a lot of fabrication to get this to work: I'm basically building a new serpentine setup at that point.

I rebuilt some of the driveshaft tunnel!
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It's funny, the light makes the panel look un-even. In real life it looks a lot better, not that it will be seen when finished. The tunnel forward of this point will screw in place and be removable for access.


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PostPosted: February 12, 2017, 11:38 pm 
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Joined: April 19, 2012, 9:43 pm
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Location: Colorado
Woke up sore today from the contortionist TIG yesterday, so I worked in the engine bay some:
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I got the wiring harness started. It's tucked behind the distributor, and most of the engine connectors are hooked up. A lot of it still to deal with going into the cab. I'm debating trying to put the computer in the cab, or leave it under the hood like it was in the vette. I need to go pull the rest of the harness out of the vette to continue, but it's buried in the dash and resisted my first 4 hour push to remove it back in the beginning of winter.
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This shows a way I could run the belt if I had an idler pulley up by where the AC compressor was. Though it just occurred to me that I need to make sure I'm spinning the water pump the correct direction, which this routing does not. EDIT: Correction: yes it does.
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Power steering cooler mounted!
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Reservoir and all the lines connected.

That was it for the day. Feels like good progress; though looking through the pictures, it doesn't look like a whole day's work.


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PostPosted: February 13, 2017, 1:11 am 
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Location: Colorado
Maybe the easiest solution is to buy a new regular waterpump (and grooved pulley) that spins the same direction as the crank, then just route the belt straight around the water pump and over to the alternator. I could then ditch the entire AC and tensioner bracket on the passenger side of the engine. This route would cost in the ballpark of $100 retail. Hmmmm. Opinions?


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PostPosted: February 13, 2017, 1:40 am 
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I'm using a serpentine belt in my locost, but running it more like an old vbelt setup. I'm using my alternator the tensioner, just like a vbelt setup, and it works good for me. My water pump didn't need to be changed because it already spun the same way as the crank. I'd probably try to keep it as simple as possible.
Kristian

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PostPosted: February 14, 2017, 2:38 am 
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turbo_bird wrote:
I'm using a serpentine belt in my locost, but running it more like an old vbelt setup. I'm using my alternator the tensioner, just like a vbelt setup, and it works good for me. My water pump didn't need to be changed because it already spun the same way as the crank. I'd probably try to keep it as simple as possible.
Kristian


I think I'm going to order a water pump. It's the solution I will be happiest with in the long term. I just need to find a grooved pulley for it that isn't an expensive aftermarket version. Anyone know of any cars that used a 5-groove serpentine belt on a short water pump?

I got a solid 4 hours in tonight and got here:
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All welded up!
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Starting to rebuild the rear firewall and fender wells.


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PostPosted: February 21, 2017, 10:21 pm 
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Alright, looks like I need to reload some pics! I'll clean it up a bit this time and only include the important ones to document progress. Here we go:
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Half of the backseat is done!
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This should be good for the belt tensioner. Sturdy and everything lines up well. Note the correct size belt is installed! Weeee! The auxiliaries are all mounted!
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Oo boy do I love a crazy body wiring harness to pick apart and clean up!
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Uggghhh... So many wires. I'm concerned that I can't just remove the BCM and still have the computer work. Isn't the VATS in the BCM? Can you guys give any advice here?


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PostPosted: February 22, 2017, 1:42 am 
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Some Vroom Vrooms were had after this landmark accomplishment today:
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Heel/Toe downshift should work nicely
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The throttle cable is too long, but I don't have a great way to shorten it. It does operate smoothly, even with the hoop in it. It'll do for now. All the parts are off the corvette and I had to slice and bend the pedal to get it routed nicely.


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PostPosted: February 22, 2017, 11:30 am 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
...those wiring harness pics are the stuff my nightmares are made of :shock:

I have nothing to ad except encouragement- I struggle with all things wiring.. you're a braver man than I :cheers:

*your project is coming along nicely btw.. fun to see the newer bits puzzle into the old..

--ccrunner

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