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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 18, 2017, 9:26 pm 
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
I couldnt buy someone elses car as I would have to take it apart and make it "right".

But then again you could buy a finished car and run it and learn AutoX and just fix stuff the car is doing wrong.

Or you could do what loosecannon has done https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/scca-emod-mgb-gt-v12-build/26822/page1/ here.

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PostPosted: January 18, 2017, 11:52 pm 
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Joined: January 11, 2017, 11:06 pm
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Location: Alberta
Heh, well, I've just made arrangements to pick up a frame this weekend. :)

I spoke with Chris at Haler Concepts and it turns out he has an extra frame that I've agreed to buy. I've also made contact with a gentleman who races a locost locally, and learned his shop has experience with these and should also be able to help me along the way. Getting pretty excited to start now!


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PostPosted: January 19, 2017, 12:05 am 
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Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Congratulations! You're off to a running start- now, the madness starts!

It's amazing how engrossing these cars are - I spend hours, every day, even when I'm not around the car, thinking about this detail or that, how I can fabricate this or that, etc. It never, ever ends!

Not that I'd want it to....

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PostPosted: January 19, 2017, 12:24 am 
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Thanks! I'm the exact same way. Haven't been able to think of much else lately. And I have a couple other advantages that should serve me well. I'm a professional mechanical designer with access to the full Autodesk Product Design Suite at work, I have some access to a lathe and milling machine, as well as a 3d printer. I plan to take advantage of those things as much as possible to make this car as awesome and unique as possible. I'm also a big fan of open source designs so I don't mind sharing the things I come up with.

I've already ordered "How to Build Motorcycle-engined Racing Cars" and will be buying more books soon. In the last few days I have learned a ton about suspension geometry, roll center, track width etc. And learning is one of the main things I want to get out of this, aside from a car that goes nicely around the track. Perhaps that will end up being a side effect more than anything else!


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PostPosted: January 19, 2017, 1:40 am 
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Joined: February 11, 2010, 1:45 am
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good luck with the build Ryan. Looking forward to seeing it soon at the track.

Bill


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PostPosted: March 21, 2017, 10:06 pm 
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BHRmotorsport wrote:
Howdy Zig,

Welcome!

As Martin said, if you don't trust your own welding then tack your stuff together and get a pro to finish weld it.

If you want a head start then buy this frame that is in Innisfail...probably a left over Haler frame. It's been advertised for quite a while so beat him down on the price then buy suspension and body components from Kinetic and you're off to the races!

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-auto-body-parts/ ... nFlag=true

Keep us posted on your decisions/progress.

Bill


I bet that feeling to get it out on the road for the first time was awesome! Also the engine it sounds nice! a great tuned tremble.


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PostPosted: March 22, 2017, 12:01 pm 
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JakeH wrote:

I bet that feeling to get it out on the road for the first time was awesome! Also the engine it sounds nice! a great tuned tremble.



Think you replied to the wrong thread mate.

But, since we're bumping threads, a little update on my end. I bought a complete 2004 Yamaha R1 to use as an engine donor. Planning to use as much as possible from it, down to the side mirrors. As soon as the new owner of my Camaro picks it up, I will use the space in the garage to start tearing it down.

Been looking at what rear axle to use and I'm pretty well settled on grabbing a Ford Explorer 8.8 and narrowing it. Need to make sure the pinion is centered after narrowing it, and I figure a 3.73 would be about right.


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PostPosted: March 22, 2017, 12:47 pm 
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For a bike engine car, I'd probably look for something lighter than an 8.8, that's an awfully heavy rear axle for something like this. The 7.5" Ford was available with a limited slip and is plenty strong for a locost. I used a little Toyota axle in mine, which is even smaller, and even with abusing it as much as possible with a 3.0 V6 and 10" slicks I haven't managed to wreck anything. The downside to the Corolla axle I used is no lsd. Have you looked at gearing and rpm charts? I think you'll find that a 3.73 axle ratio will be too low, most BEC guys seem to end up around a 2.73:1 due to the built in primary reduction of a bike engine.
Kristian

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PostPosted: March 22, 2017, 1:04 pm 
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Yeah I looked through charts, I'd like to be sitting around 3.5 ideally. That'd put me at the top of 2nd gear on most autox tracks. Not really concerned with highway cruising RPMs.

As for the weight, yeah it's heavy. I'd honesty rather use something like a mustang 7.5, but I've had a hard time finding something that checks all the boxes. If I missed something, I'd love to hear about it.

Maybe some of these are less of an issue than I currently think they are, but:

-3.5~3.7 ratio
-limited slip available
-disc brakes (I prefer disc for autox)
-common 5-lug pattern
-centered pinion (book frame tunnel size)
-56~58" WMS-WMS (book frame, 8" wide +40mm offset wheels should fit well?)

The Explorer axle, from what I can gather, has the pinion centered in the pumpkin but the pumpkin is offset. Narrowing it will center the pumpkin and get the WMS-WMS in the right range for a book chassis.


Looking again, there might be a Ranger 7.5 with 3.55 gearing and the right width. I'd need to figure out the bolt pattern and whether the pumpkin is centered..


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PostPosted: March 22, 2017, 4:13 pm 
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A Ranger 7.5 should be 5 on 4.5". Also look at T-bird turbocoupes and Cougar XR7s from the 80's. They should have a 7.5 with an Auburn type LSD and 3.45 gears. They will be a 4 on 4.25 bolt pattern, but it isn't hard to fix that. Where are you? I've got an 85 Cougar that i bought years ago just for the turbo that would have that particular diff, and it might still have a working LSD. I think they switched to the 8.8 in 1987, but 1983 - 1986 should have the 7.5 Trac Loc as Ford called it. I also think the early MN12 non-supercoupe T-birds had a 7.5 center section with the IRS, and the limited slip carrier from a solid axle would probably work in them as well.
Kristian

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PostPosted: March 22, 2017, 4:54 pm 
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Hmm, I'm in Calgary. Not toooo far. I'll see what specs I can find on that axle for WMS. Good idea, thanks.


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