LocostUSA.com

Just as a "head's up" for you guys ordering seats. The nylon seat covers for the Kirkeys are crap. They never loose the look of shiney yet wrinkley parachute pants. Get the Tweed covers they don't come in as many cool colors but they look much much better IMHO and I've owned both.

What about these?

914 seats are just a bit over 18" at widest, where the bottom becomes the back.

I went to make my own from available plans.
After a few of hours, I´ve come to realize that they are too much work without the proper equipment, but now i´m way into them....
Next Locost will have purchased seats....
my $0.02,
PS: I´m on my way to buy some elbow grease

Hi, any chance you could share those plans? Cheers!!!

Sure,
They are hosted here:

http://www.rorty-design.com/files/Rorty ... attern.pdf

Regards
AA

Thanks for sharing...

To bring this topic back up, I recently decided on the seats for my build and wanted to share the first result. I can't truly say it's a good option yet, as I'm only about 25 days into the build, but I feel like it's really going to work out.

I was looking for a seat that was sub $400/pair, but had a more finished look than the Kirkey options (and plastic seats were out anyways due to future use of the car). I wanted a fixed back, with side bolsters, and a high back with shoulder harness holes. My frame is a modified Gibbs, which is +2 in the cockpit (basically, a 442 with a higher taper angle to the front), with 19" between the driveshaft tunnel and the cockpit side. What I found was a Pro Sport by Procar (SCat), sold by Summit/Jegs for $131 each. That included slider rails, which I like as my girlfriend will also drive this car, and I don't have to make an adjustable pedal assembly now (I stand 7 inches taller).

I modified the slider rail mount points to use the lowest mounting possible, but also angle the seat. I also put a spacer under the front mount point to increase the angle more. The seatback now sits ~75-73 degrees from horizontal, which matches up very well to my rear bulkhead angle of 71 deg. All told, it took ~30 minutes, 38" of 1x1x.065, and a drill and recip. saw to get the driver side done, and I'm very happy with the result.

The catch for many will be the shoulder bolster extension. I do not plan to build in the curved member many have going from the rear bulkhead upper to the side mid-plane. Those with those curved members will probably find that shoulder bolster hits that member on these seats.

I'll pop up some pictures when I get home tonight.

- Jeremy

The curved side member is there to support and close off the rear fender. Are you going to use cycle fenders in the rear to get around this?

Chanoquin, I had planned on trying to make the Rorty aluminium seat as well. What issues did you have, and what equipment were you missing? I was thinking it would be possible to cut pattern using a jigsaw, bend them using a sort of ghetto "brake" consisting of some wood pieces clamping the aluminium with a couple hinges at the bend point, and then oxy-fuel welding them using flux coated rod. I'm keen to hear your thoughts, or anyone else's.

I picked up a pair of like new Corbeau A4's with spiders and br@ckets from a guy on Craigslist for $80... He was restoring an older Miata and didn't want them sitting in his garage any more... They're really light and fit in the back of my mini with the seats folded down...

Moral of the story: search EVERYWHERE... Racingjunk.com, CL, the forum for sale threads...




*There were no spiders... That was supposed to say sliders... Auto-correct on my phone...

No, they will be the usual style. The rear bulkhead upper is taller than normal (24" off the lower plane, instead of 21ish), and when combined with the rear axle position means the fender will just kiss the angled member that joins the rear bulkhead upper with the midplane (and continues to the lower plane).

A couple days late, but here are some pictures of the Procar -