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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 8, 2017, 8:32 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 160
All Solstice stuff...engine, trans, uprights/brakes, steering rack, diff, axles, driveshaft (minus 20 inches). I like it, but i had to enlarge the taper on the tie rod and UBJ and change the bolt pattern from 5x100 to 5x4-3/4 to use the wheels i wanted. I bought another set of solstice uprights (good deal on eBay) for the next car :BH: .

Bought the whole Solstice package from Dean 3W - super nice guy- we have become internet friends ever since. We are collaborating on making some louver press dies....

this might be next on the list - Ferrari Celeritas....has a 7ish look to it. I like the shape, but maybe keep it more vintage looking


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 8, 2017, 9:27 am 
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Joined: January 31, 2008, 5:34 pm
Posts: 695
Location: SW Wes Consin
Very impressive chassis. I would stop by were it not 1000 miles. You are fortunate to live so close to Wray. Here in the sticks I'm trying to resolve the panel joining question: TIG or OA ? What do you think about this?


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 8, 2017, 2:02 pm 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 160
I have a Miller Tig (Syncrowave 200 with water-cooled torch) so that is all i have used. Wray Tigs too. Other experts seem to favor OA (Kent White - TinManTech). id like to work with an OA expert, then id be a better judge. If you do Tig, it is best to do both sides. You can fusion weld if you have no gaps (Wray posted a video on FB a while back). I bought some 0.035 1100 Mig wire to use when i need a dab of filler.
The import Tigs work well too, but a water-cooled torch is better for using AC.

It is good to planish ("hammer smooth") the weld and grind. I use a 3" 3M "Blaze" disc on an angle grinder. 50 grit is good for knocking down the welds. Put a little wax on the disc so it doesnt clog with aluminum - candle wax or beeswax are good.

once again, i am just an amateur, not an authority.....


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 10, 2017, 4:20 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
Posts: 1106
Location: Gainesville, Mo.
vroom wrote:
...I would stop by were it not 1000 miles. You are fortunate to live so close to Wray. Here in the sticks I'm trying to resolve the panel joining question...


If you are interested in training, you might look at this outfit. http://www.aametalshaping.com/contact/ They're in the Green Bay area.

_________________
Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 7:24 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 160
I brought my car home last week. Working on the bulkheads and trying to finalize the body mounting. I made the front bulkhead (back of the nose) - mounted it to the chassis with 1/4-20 riv-nuts. Its tricky...have to try to think 10 steps ahead,but keep things simple.
2 years ago i made a drawing on my dry-erase board of what i wanted to build (I'm am NOT artistic!) The car ended up being within 4" of my scaled drawing - you can see it in the pic


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 3:46 pm 
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Joined: June 5, 2016, 7:03 am
Posts: 119
Location: ontario
[quote="Sean in CT"]

Thanks Sean for these inspiring photos. :cheers:


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