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 Post subject: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 3, 2018, 1:01 pm 
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Joined: February 29, 2008, 7:15 pm
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Location: Denver, Colorado
There are about a dozen different types of "Cherry" rivets on Aircraft Spruce, and google didn't help much either.

Which rivets did you guys use for aluminum floors/panels and body panels? I'm planning on .050 3003 aluminum for body panels and .062 6061 for the floors based on advice from two different sources I trust. I figure the body panels don't need crazy strength, but the floors and firewall panels probably do.

Thank you!

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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 3, 2018, 1:57 pm 
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Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
I would think that the BSPQ line (Q=structural) should suffice. I believe that going into higher grade blind rivets, like the Cherry MAX line, typically requires higher-than-hobby-grade installation tools.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/cherrynrivet.php

Edit: I also recommend 'wet' installing them with sealant.

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Last edited by Driven5 on July 3, 2018, 2:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 3, 2018, 2:04 pm 
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Joined: February 29, 2008, 7:15 pm
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Location: Denver, Colorado
Thanks - those were the ones I was looking at, but SS (CC in Cherry code). Much higher strength for not much more $$.

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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 3, 2018, 2:28 pm 
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I don't think the rivet being stronger than the base material being fastened will gain you much. Stainless also has a greater galvanic (corrosion) potential.

If you really want to go for strength, a structurally bonding the panel to the frame before riveting rather than just sealing it might be a good alternative.

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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 3, 2018, 3:06 pm 
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Joined: February 29, 2008, 7:15 pm
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Location: Denver, Colorado
Excellent information, which is why I pose questions to those wiser than me! So stainless is more corrosive in contact with aluminum? I was planning on bonding with Sikaflex as well.

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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 4, 2018, 11:28 pm 
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Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
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Location: Novato, CA
.050 is a little thick for body panels, except maybe the bonnet. .040 is much easier to crease. I used .032 for the rear panel and bending it over the round tubing was easy, even in the corners.


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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 5, 2018, 12:57 am 
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Joined: March 19, 2011, 10:22 am
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
I used Protract SS rivets on my car builds and my trailer build.
I know I've been told about the corrosive considerations between SS and aluminum but I factor in the environment we operate the cars in. I am sure my builds will last many years, not driven in winter snow or slush, or salted roads, polished and waxed more often than I want to admit, keep dry most of the time, and most of all, there will be no recalls on 1000's of my cars because a few of them had corroded rivets of which I had no control of how it happened.

The most common sizes of SS rivets are the 304 1/8" SS XX42 and XX43 lengths, the XX43 length used where the aluminum panels overlap each other on the .065 tubing. I add that all I use is .040" aluminum on all of the car.

And, a very good investment that will make you smile just as much as driving your 7 is buying a pneumatic pop riveting tool, unless you like your arms looking like Popeye :lol:


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File comment: Protract 304 SS rivets
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Screen Shot 2018-07-04 at 10.41.24 PM.png [ 243.77 KiB | Viewed 688 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 5, 2018, 4:27 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2011, 12:38 pm
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Location: Akron, NY
I bought my rivets from Jay-Cee rivet sales. I used aluminum stem aluminum body non structural closed ended blind rivets with sealant for all the non structural applications to prevent moisture from getting into the tubes. Regular blind rivets have a habit of the stem falling out and leaving an opening for moisture to get in. For the Structural applications I used interlock structural rivets with a sealant. There is no chance that the stem will fall out as it is part of the structure of the rivet. I used aluminum body/stem for applications between aluminum and steel and stainless steel rivets for steel to steel applications.

Edit: They also sell the Q structural type rivets see link bellow.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-rivets/closed-end-blind-rivets#1

https://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-rivets/interlock-magna-lok-ultragrips-kliklock-structural-blind-rivets#1

https://www.rivetsonline.com/pr64aapi-all-aluminum-interlock-rivets/pr64aapi

https://www.rivetsonline.com/pr64ffpi-all-stainless-steel-interlock-rivets/pr64ffpi

https://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-rivets/q-rivets-structural-blind-rivets#1


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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 9, 2018, 1:52 pm 
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Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
RandyBMC wrote:
So stainless is more corrosive in contact with aluminum?
Technically speaking, yes. In all fairness though, the size of the anode vs the size of the cathode plays a factor as well...In other words, small SS rivets in a large aluminum panel will have far fewer corrosive tendencies than small aluminum rivets in a large stainless panel would.

So in all likelihood, the SS rivets should probably be totally fine in this application. I'm just more familiar with the general guideline that the rivet body is most commonly selected based on the material of the panel under the rivet head...And don't really see much benefit to SS rivets over correctly used aluminum rivets either.

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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: July 30, 2018, 8:27 pm 
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Joined: July 5, 2018, 10:20 am
Posts: 6
Anyone have a link for suitable black anodized aluminum rivets?


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 Post subject: Re: Which rivets?
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 12:42 am 
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Joined: June 13, 2014, 11:55 am
Posts: 50
JCS wrote:
Anyone have a link for suitable black anodized aluminum rivets?



Check suppliers for Aluminum window frames, the sell several colors to choose from.


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