Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 11, 2011, 11:25 pm 
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Joined: June 8, 2010, 8:02 pm
Posts: 617
Location: White Rock, BC, Canada
Hey guys.

I am tempted to do the tremclad mixed with mineral spirits thing on my car because:

-the new laws about paint (waterbased only or something?)

Question being, should I use tremclad (oil based), can I ever paint it with something else? Or will it be oil based paints only from there on? Ive not been able to find that info.

Also, what would I do for surface prep on a car with new aluminum and fiberglass (and lots of body filler)? I will be spraying it on, not rollering it like the mopar thread.

Thanks for any help.
PS: this not knowing bodywork is killing me. I'm sure an experience bodyman would be able to sort my car out in a few hours but it takes me so long because I have no idea what I am doing. Arg!

Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291

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PostPosted: August 11, 2011, 11:30 pm 

Joined: July 2, 2010, 1:13 am
Posts: 431
Location: Phoenix arizona
dont get all bamboozled about waterbase paint laws,the only thing different is the basecoat ,the clear is still the same .One trick with body work is always use a block and anything you feel with your hands will show in your paintwork.

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PostPosted: August 12, 2011, 7:10 am 
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Joined: January 2, 2009, 1:45 pm
Posts: 1209
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
One thing that won't work is rattle-can lacquer over top of Tremclad - the Tremclad will blister .... how do I know? A barrier primer might prevent this, but any breaks in the barrier coat will be problematic.

If you go to a two-part paint (which I suspect is unlikely), it may also have the same effect over one-part substrates. A good way to check is to paint the same bit of scrap as a test piece, before you paint on your car. This will gie you a 'test site.' You will always have something with the same paint history as your car that you can test new paint layers on, without any disasters on the real thing.

Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

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PostPosted: August 12, 2011, 1:34 pm 

Joined: January 21, 2008, 1:53 pm
Posts: 69
Location: Gabriola, B.C.
Cory; I did the Mopar $50 tremclad paint routine.
Yes its cost effective but a looong labour period. I thought it looked very good, a deep lustre satiny black on my car :lol:
BUT, the enamel chips right out to the primer leaving holes that the tiny touch-up brush couldn't hide. Sanding out just reveals
the 8 layers (coats) and attempts to blend in multiple layers of Tremclad again didn't work for me :cry:
So to my local pro painter. Sand down ALL surfaces. Couple of coats of high build primer with sanding in between.
Coat of epoxy primer. Final coat (Dupont urethane) black again. I'm still waiting for the final coat to gas off (2-3 months?)
before rub-out polishing and waxing. Painter said no clear coat is necessary, then if scratched, just de-wax, touch paint, and re-polish.
The finish is gloss black. 8)
Thats just my experience :)
Wilf, Alfa7

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PostPosted: August 12, 2011, 7:47 pm 

Joined: June 24, 2007, 6:04 pm
Posts: 1526
Although automotive spray paint is going towards a water base, if you go to Lordco they can still mix up automotive enamel paint for you and put it into rattle cans, rattle cans slide by the new laws.
Also boat repair shops do not have to conform to the water base paint either and can still get the non water base paint.

I used tremclad on my frame and it is not very durable, it is not anything like the Tremclad of old, I think the old stuff siezed to exist once the company was sold to Rustoleum as the product seemed to go down hill after that.
I still have some of the old stuff and it is hard as nails in comparison.


Super Seven 3.4

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