LocostUSA.com

http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/TK2012-09

Okay, he's working on a truck here, but he really did some pretty work turning one of those snuggie fleecy things into a custom bumper.

I'm pretty sure I wouldn't take that bumper into a snowy surface, but... Was thinking that this could be something that would make, say, a good dash board? Or a hood scoop? Or even rear fenders?

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

Some of you already know this is how I make my body panel shapes.

What's missing from that video is that the stretch cloth you use doesn't always dry evenly often pulling out of shape and/or lumpy so what I do is use a foam filler on the underside first to make a solid base before I apply the resin.

http://www.google.com.hk/search?um=1&hl ... m%20filler

Where there's intricate shapes I also spray on light surface coats of resin first allowing time to dry in between building the layers of resin up - rigging up a spray pot to do that isn't easy either.

BTW, you can wash out resin'ed paint brushes with a strong mix of boiling water and clothes washing powder rather than acetone.

The part I can't figure out is why the use, specifically, by name, of "NACA ducts" for those front brakes?

1. I thought that NACA ducts were to be surface mounted, with the pointy end facing upstream, and the air moving over the face of the thing? Not mounted as a "hole in the wall", with the air blowing into the face, as shown here? Unless the bumper gets a helluva side wind?

2. I thought that NACA ducts were good for a smaller quantity of high velocity air, running at the same speed as the intake air (think "car wash jet" as opposed to, say, a river)? And brakes, radiators, engine intakes, etc all needed slower, calmer air in larger quantities?

I realize that 2, $115 ea carbon fiber NACA ducts look really cool, but even the NASCAR Cup guys are running (basically) nice holes in the bumper...

http://pitstopusa.com/c-134339-brake-sy ... ducts.html

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

There were some really nice tips in that Trucks video.

Looks like fleece would make a good shaping material for something like a dash or maybe an aero splitter/bumper/etc.

But for flat or gently curved surfaces I've always used Formica type laminate. There's a plethora of different patterns out there, especially now when they are trying to compete with stone counters, so you can get some really unique finishes. It works very good as an inlay around gauges.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

point me to some examples! Please!

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

I'm presuming you mean examples of laminate finishes.

Here's some: http://www.google.com/search?num=10&hl= ... iodsM-y6Ms

I'll dig up the pics on my old computer and try to post a pic of a brushed & stamped metal look I used on one car. I glued it to a metal sheet and installed it from the rear in a wood dash. Wasn't too shiney as to reflect in my face and was very durable.

I've also used it to make wainscoting, wallpaper, painted walls, floors, etc. in my girls doll houses I built when they were young. It is amazing all the different looks you can get.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Try searching this site for "fleece".

They get paid to promote products. Not the best use of a naca duct.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
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fleece and even T shirt jersey material are both common build fabrics in the custom enclosure crowd. A little time with simple wood working tools, some fabric, staples, resin and bondo will let you build darn near anything.

I agree with cheapracer about the sometimes unexpected results with fabric stretch and sag. I ruined my first few attempts at some custom side scoops for my Frankensprite project. I ended up thinning the resin 1 part resin with 2 parts acetone and adding about 50% more catalyst than called for to make a light, thin mixture that would wet fabric without too much weight per coat.

parts would get 3 or 4 light coats before I would lay on an uncut coat of resin. Some parts still felt flimsy and I'd add resin soaked chopped glass mat to the backside to get the strength I wanted.

Parts that needed even more structure would be build from wood and bondo if needed, then covered in glass. You'd be amazed at what you can do with 1/4" thick cedar or spruce strips and a little advance planning for shape.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

I don't live all that close to a body of water, but I want one of those...just because.