Here is from my build log. I'm sure there are nearly as many ways to do it as there are builders. I can say that these have held up for 5 yrs now. Now that I have said that, I'm sure they will die on the first drive this year.
They were eventually welded full-length.Quote:
They are made of a continuous piece of 1/8 x 1” steel from the upright mount, up and under the fiberglass fender. Then I split a 1” tube and welded the ½ tube to the 1/8” forming a “D” shaped tube. The upper end of the “D” is chamfered and closed. The “D” shape allows for a flat surface to fit flush against the brackets and a close fit to the tires. Four ¼” bolts unscrew from the upright bracket to remove the fender with stays. None of this share any suspension or brake bolts or nuts. This was an important design goal for me. I don’t like the idea of using structural hardware doing double-duty as mounts other things. As of now I have only one side tacked together. I have about 1/4" clearance between the fender stays and the tire. I hope this will be enough.
None of this “fixes” the traditional weak point at the transition of the tube to the 1/8” steel. I guess I’ll just have to learn the hard way, like so many before me. SO go ahead..... I can take it...... Of course, any ideas on how to make this a bit more robust short of tearing it apart an doing it over are welcome.
None of this “fixes” the traditional weak point at the transition of the tube to the 1/8” steel. I guess I’ll just have to learn the hard way, like so many before me. SO go ahead..... I can take it...... Of course, any ideas on how to make this a bit more robust short of tearing it apart an doing it over are welcome.