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I kind of put these two situations together. The cardboard version being .188thk alum plate or g10. Not quite sure of that would be thick enough though. The toed out mounting flanges on the wing don't help. Steel tube version looks weird for some reason.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

It would be wise to first determine air flow to any proposed wing position.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Not with out cfd or a wind tunnel. The best I can do is mount it, tape some yarn to it and drove around.

A leaf blower and yarn might work.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

thoughts on material for the upright? I can get .187 G10 or aluminum for about the same price.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

From my experience, you'll get less adjustability out of the aluminum version. I like the turnbuckle style mounting personally, though I would triangulate the upper arms to add some rigidity to the whole assembly.

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Tucker

designing and building wings and wing mounts is a very large part of my business .

the starting point is you really need to see what the best placement for the wing should be .
you can do this with a good quality design program for aerodynamics .
then the next step would be move the design to a 1/4 scale wing tunnel for testing .
for most this is out .
but look at the design of the car the air flow around a car such as this is never good .
so you want to put a wing on the car but what are you doing for the front end ?
it's real easy to get rear DF but the front is the problem with most all cars .

when it comes to wing supports many want to go right to aluminum for them .
not a bad idea but not always the best idea either .
the reason it's not always a good idea is the person will take a thick heavy piece of aluminum and then cut out areas to make it lighter . they make a girder design but how does airflow go around a girder design . is the air flow clean and smooth or does the air flowing around it get very dirty ?
in most all cases it becomes very dirty . so any weight you saved by cutting out all the areas to lighten the big piece of aluminum you have just created dirty air flow . dirty chopped up airflow is not what you want on the underside of a wing if your looking to get the most out of it .

in most cases we build our wing mounts out of .120 wall 1/2 steel tubing in a girder design then skin them with very thin sheet metal . when all said and done most every time the wing supports will weight less and be stronger then aluminum ones . the other option we do is to build them out of a composite material but this comes at a high cost .

when it comes to the turnbuckle adjusters to get the wing angles . we use porsche 944 AC / alternator adjusters they come in two different lengths 3" and 6" we use the 3" long ones at a cost of 50 dollars each .

the front wing mount is the pivot the rear mount is the adjuster . the 3" adjuster should give you about 0 to 4.5 degrees of wing angle adjustment .

962P, great looking wing mounts. Regarding the short turnbuckles you use, they might just be the final piece I need for my reverse-mount alternator set-up. I need an adjuster with 8mm rod ends and a minimum of 3.75" (or less) between rod end pivot centers. Does the 3" 944 units fit the bill? Do you have a part number or source for them? What year 944's should I be looking for to salvage one.
Thanks.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

the body of the porsche adjusters are 3" not eye let to eyelet .
pelican parts has them after market for 30 dollars not as nice as the OE part but 20 dollars less cost .
PELICAN's PART NUMBER IS pel-rb-944-437-053-02 .
it's the power steering pump adjuster not the alt.AC adjuster .
the eyelets take a 13mm headed bolt so what the thread size bolt would be 8mm .
the threads to the turnbuckle is 8mm x 1.25

the photo is the V8 chevy motors alt adjuster in my 944 AKA 948

962P, that looks like the perfect adjuster for my application. Many thanks for the part number and pic. If I can't find an OE one at a salvage yard I'll order an aftermarket version from Pelican. Thanks again.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

if you want new the dealer should have them .

Thanks, 962p. The tubular OE units are definitely nicer, I've made some stainless steel ones similar to that. But in this case I ended up ordering the replacement part from Pelican. Thought it might be easier to shorten the hex-bodied one if need be and the price was right. Also, as the used OE ones on fleabay were pretty grungy looking I didn't purse the salvage yard route.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

i would have done the same .
i made a jig to make them some years ago it works mint keeping every think in a nice straight line. the time it takes to get the materials then cut and build the turnbuckles kind of makes the jig pointless .
for me even the time it takes for cleaning up a used one is not worth it .
takes 10 to 15 minutes to blast it in the cabinet then it needs priming and paint or plating .

The adjuster arrived today from Pelican. Very quick service and a nice part. The adjuster measures 3 5/8" between the eyelet centers when fully shortened. That is with 1.25" of LH and RH threads fully inserted, with inside ends touching and jam nuts in place. Plenty of material and threads to take another 1" out of the eyelet-center to eyelet-center length if need be.

Should work great. Thanks again for the tip.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Um yeah.... i did an aero simulation on my chassis but it was a pain so i am going to confirm with the fan and string.

there is also a front wing that that was designed with simulation software and made.

and to clarify the mounts with use the turn buckles that came with the APR wing. I will just incorporate them in the aluminum structure. you can see in the carboard pic where there is a gap between the rod end and cardboard mount.




but here is the new thing... i am working on an active aero design but i cannot seem to find just the right linear actuator that will respond quickly and is also compact. Anybody have any suggestions? And no, i am trying to stay away from a wiper motor.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

What will cause it to be activated? Speed, braking, what?

If braking then how about adding a 2nd master cylinder and circuit just for this. I've played with just such a system to cause front splitters to get bigger & the leading edge of the rear wing to drop. Almost the reverse of the F1 DRS.

Each circuit worked good separately, I just never tied them together to see if there was enough fluid to operate both at the same time.

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I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.