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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 8, 2017, 8:32 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 180
All Solstice stuff...engine, trans, uprights/brakes, steering rack, diff, axles, driveshaft (minus 20 inches). I like it, but i had to enlarge the taper on the tie rod and UBJ and change the bolt pattern from 5x100 to 5x4-3/4 to use the wheels i wanted. I bought another set of solstice uprights (good deal on eBay) for the next car :BH: .

Bought the whole Solstice package from Dean 3W - super nice guy- we have become internet friends ever since. We are collaborating on making some louver press dies....

this might be next on the list - Ferrari Celeritas....has a 7ish look to it. I like the shape, but maybe keep it more vintage looking


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 8, 2017, 9:27 am 
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Joined: January 31, 2008, 5:34 pm
Posts: 724
Location: SW Wes Consin
Very impressive chassis. I would stop by were it not 1000 miles. You are fortunate to live so close to Wray. Here in the sticks I'm trying to resolve the panel joining question: TIG or OA ? What do you think about this?


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 8, 2017, 2:02 pm 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 180
I have a Miller Tig (Syncrowave 200 with water-cooled torch) so that is all i have used. Wray Tigs too. Other experts seem to favor OA (Kent White - TinManTech). id like to work with an OA expert, then id be a better judge. If you do Tig, it is best to do both sides. You can fusion weld if you have no gaps (Wray posted a video on FB a while back). I bought some 0.035 1100 Mig wire to use when i need a dab of filler.
The import Tigs work well too, but a water-cooled torch is better for using AC.

It is good to planish ("hammer smooth") the weld and grind. I use a 3" 3M "Blaze" disc on an angle grinder. 50 grit is good for knocking down the welds. Put a little wax on the disc so it doesnt clog with aluminum - candle wax or beeswax are good.

once again, i am just an amateur, not an authority.....


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 10, 2017, 4:20 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
Posts: 1333
Location: Gainesville, Mo.
vroom wrote:
...I would stop by were it not 1000 miles. You are fortunate to live so close to Wray. Here in the sticks I'm trying to resolve the panel joining question...


If you are interested in training, you might look at this outfit. http://www.aametalshaping.com/contact/ They're in the Green Bay area.

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 7:24 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 180
I brought my car home last week. Working on the bulkheads and trying to finalize the body mounting. I made the front bulkhead (back of the nose) - mounted it to the chassis with 1/4-20 riv-nuts. Its tricky...have to try to think 10 steps ahead,but keep things simple.
2 years ago i made a drawing on my dry-erase board of what i wanted to build (I'm am NOT artistic!) The car ended up being within 4" of my scaled drawing - you can see it in the pic


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: October 31, 2017, 3:46 pm 
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Joined: June 5, 2016, 7:03 am
Posts: 215
Location: ontario
[quote="Sean in CT"]

Thanks Sean for these inspiring photos. :cheers:


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: December 24, 2017, 9:17 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 180
Working on the rear frame/trunk area. trying to make it rigid but not too strong. Using 1" x 0.063 square. The main chassis is 1.5" x 0.083. Getting the body panels to flow together is tricky. Trying to make it so the whole rear section can be removed (not necessarily quickly or easily) I think the trunk floor will connect to the "wheel wells" (cut outs in body for suspension). The truck opening will also connect to the rear of the chassis. Trying to minimize the number of external fasteners.
Merry Christmas!


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: December 24, 2017, 11:01 am 
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Joined: January 1, 2015, 1:55 pm
Posts: 203
I really like your build. It looks great!


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: December 25, 2017, 5:13 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 3643
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Yes, that rear section is coming together very well, it looks to me.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: December 27, 2017, 8:54 pm 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 180
Worked on the car for a couple of hours today. Nothing like taking smooth shiny aluminum panels and beating them with a hammer! The curves are tricky. The quarter panel (around the axle/suspension) starts as a fairly flat vertical with a 7" radius curve at the top and transitions to a sweeping curve. The top of the panel is pretty much horizontal until it gets toward the rear of the tire then is starts dipping into the tail. When viewed from the top, it curves like a canoe. First pic was prior to beating and bending. The second is after. The headrest fairing isn't finished yet - going to weld the whole rear together then put that on last - just set it on there for a visual. Curves are supposed to flow together like an italian woman :shock:


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: January 23, 2018, 2:46 pm 
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Joined: November 12, 2008, 6:29 am
Posts: 3537
I've been away for a bit, and this is the first time I've seen it, and just fantastic, well done Sean, hope you see it through.


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: January 23, 2018, 8:22 pm 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 180
Thanks Cheap - i started on it 2 years ago. Started on the body 50 weeks ago - never shaped aluminum prior to that. Very motivated to get it done - was hoping for summer 2018, but spring 2019 is more like it. The more i build the car, the more i appreciate the genius of Frank Kurtis - he was so far ahead of his european contemporaries, yet most car guys know little about him. One of my good friends is a formally trained in classical greco-roman sculptor (damn good at it too) - he helped my lay out the design. All the classical art concepts apply to the Kurtis design...very cool Your CGI looks right on!


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: April 1, 2018, 9:40 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 180
Been picking away the the Kurtis. Getting the rear bodywork good hasn't been too hard. Getting it really good, is 10x as much work! The panels tend to dip in at the seams, so i need to raise those without screwing up the shape. Ordered a sweep set to help. Sweeps are radius gauges that vary by 1/16" over 60" span - ordered a set of 100.

I think i may lower my standards slightly in the interest of progress, since It will be painted. If i was going to leave it bare aluminum, it would be a different story....maybe my Frankfurt Flyer will be left bare (next project)

Also working on a Chicago Pneumatic (CP) Planishing hammer. These were used extensively in WW2 for aircraft manufacturing. Bought a kit from Jay Hayes (on http://www.allmetalshaping.com) It is a lot more work than i was anticipating but will be worth it. Planishing means smoothing the metal, rather than adding shape/shrinking/stretching (power hammers stretch and shrink) The CP one works a lot differently then the harbor freight style ( an costs a lot more $$$) Probably will be my 2nd most useful metal shaping tool (English wheel #1)

Also did a little windscreen mockup - Looks good in the shop, but need to take it outside to stand back 30 feet


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: April 3, 2018, 11:37 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 3643
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
How big is the planishing hammer? Got a photo?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: Kurtis body
PostPosted: April 3, 2018, 5:32 pm 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
Posts: 180
Here is a link to a build using the Jay Hayes kit i bought. The throat is 36"

http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=2237


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