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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 4, 2006, 1:27 pm 
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Not meaning to split hairs...but what is the difference between venting it out the sides or venting to out the front suspension area?
Don't the same isues apply....(heat in the cabin area).

What if you used the nosecone with a vee or Y shaped plemium directing the hot air away from the center of the hood and hood intake scoop and more toward the sides. On most engines you should still have enough space between the radiator and the front of the motor (of course if you are running in board shocks this complicates matters).

I was thinking inline with KB58
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I know it's a fair change, but how about venting the radiator air out the sides instead of the top. Use ducting like you do now, but use a V-shaped piece to split the exiting air left and right.

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Last edited by mr.peabody.d on October 4, 2006, 8:36 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: October 4, 2006, 1:46 pm 
This is a bit off the wall and would only work with an IRS, BUT. What if you used the trans tunnel as a duct? Fashon sheetmetal to connect to the bulkhead and around the diff terminating in a small electric radiator cooling fan. There would need to be holes for the halfshafts and you would need a bit larger tunnel but I would think that a fair amount of air could be pulled out of the engine bay in that manner. You might want to think about insulating the tunnel a bit since it would be warmer. I wouldn't think it would cause issues with the diff. Unfortunatly this would have to be taken into account when building the car as a retrofit might be a PITA.


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PostPosted: October 4, 2006, 4:07 pm 
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I'm concerned about three heat related things: Radiator air, header heat and intake air. Since my car seems to run cool even in hot weather, I'm not too concerned about getting more air past the radiator. I am concerned about getting the header heat evacuated though, and it seems like the radiator fan helps that. The best place for the radiator air to exit seems to be side vents. Maybe larger on the exhaust side and smaller on the intake side to bias the flow past the headers. Well designed vents should provide a nice low pressure area to encourage the flow. I remember seeing one Locost with very nice looking polished stainless vents from a boat store like West Marine. These were mounted in the sides of the bonnet.

Similarly, the center of the scuttle/bonnet just ahead of the windshield seems to be a high pressure area and ideal for getting the intake air. I'm still working on my hood/nose (one piece fiberglass) but at this point it looks like side vents, air intake and a bump for the cam pulley will all be a part of the project.


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PostPosted: October 4, 2006, 8:20 pm 
John,

Regarding the header heat, have you looked into the use of some of the ceramic type of coatings.

I understand they help reduce the radiation of the header heat and keep it in the exhaust. I understand that the engine compartment heat is therefore reduced.

Just a thought.

DFE


Locost_Johnh wrote:
I'm concerned about three heat related things: Radiator air, header heat and intake air. Since my car seems to run cool even in hot weather, I'm not too concerned about getting more air past the radiator. I am concerned about getting the header heat evacuated though, and it seems like the radiator fan helps that. The best place for the radiator air to exit seems to be side vents. Maybe larger on the exhaust side and smaller on the intake side to bias the flow past the headers. Well designed vents should provide a nice low pressure area to encourage the flow. I remember seeing one Locost with very nice looking polished stainless vents from a boat store like West Marine. These were mounted in the sides of the bonnet.

Similarly, the center of the scuttle/bonnet just ahead of the windshield seems to be a high pressure area and ideal for getting the intake air. I'm still working on my hood/nose (one piece fiberglass) but at this point it looks like side vents, air intake and a bump for the cam pulley will all be a part of the project.


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PostPosted: October 4, 2006, 9:28 pm 
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There's also header wraps.

An intake setup using the cowl is a good idea, and there's always scoops and NACA ducts. Using some sheet metal under the radiator will help keep the air moving in the right direction, like this:

Image

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PostPosted: October 5, 2006, 3:49 pm 
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DavidFE wrote:
Regarding the header heat, have you looked into the use of some of the ceramic type of coatings.


I haven't looked into coatings yet, but it is on the list. Where I'm really concerned is the fiberglass bonnet just above the headers. Wraps seem to get bad press related to moisture and rust, so I'm not sure about them. I may try a combination of a thin reflective insulation lining the engine area of the bonnet along with the ceramic or similar coating. Then if the glass still seems to be getting too warm, I can add a shield closer to the headers.

First I need to finish trimming the bonnet/nose and mount it - a be a messy time consuming task.

John


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PostPosted: October 5, 2006, 6:08 pm 
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Reflectix (I think that's it) from Home Depot gets used alot for interiors, and some engine apps, perhaps that'd be the answer. It's bubblewrap with aluminum foil type design, comes in rolls for about $30.

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PostPosted: October 10, 2006, 2:40 pm 
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Scott wrote:
Reflectix (I think that's it) from Home Depot gets used alot for interiors, and some engine apps, perhaps that'd be the answer. It's bubblewrap with aluminum foil type design, comes in rolls for about $30.


Funny you should mention that. I have 4 rolls I picked up last week to put on :)


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PostPosted: October 10, 2006, 9:39 pm 
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A note about ducting the heat down the tranny tunnel. I have seen Eskoa's seven, from the locostnorthamerica @yahoo forum. He did the opposite, he noted that his footwell and tranny tunnel were getting too hot to be comfortable, so he just cut some foam pieces to fit around his tranny to cover up the gap so no air from the engine compartment makes it down the the tranny tunnel. Indeed it would be neat to be able to push the heat down there without it radiating into the cockpit, but I don't think thats feasible.

I like the idea of routing air down the side of the car with the header, and coating the header to reduce heat. Another option to deflect heat away from the driver is to put on little side windows that extend out from the windshield. I'm not sure how the DOT will be with those, of if the real Lotus seven came with them, but I think they should work.


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PostPosted: August 8, 2016, 6:40 am 
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locostv8 wrote:
****This was split from another thread, I thought it derserved its own thread.*****

slngsht wrote:
i think the general shape of the 7 has really no strategy for radiator air duct cleaning services portland Oregon exit, which i plan to accomplish by an openning to the top on the back side of the radiator (similar to the hood openning in the GT40


Here is a pic of a V8 Westy note the air outlet on the nose.
Image

I'm building a 392(351) powered Locost and would be greatly interested in details and if you have an album somewhere.


I look great you really done a nice job. I would like to do the same with my pontiac GTO.


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