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PostPosted: July 30, 2014, 7:51 pm 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Just noticed the rpm's are out of sequence. 2300 - 2900 - 2500

How does that affect the tune?

Bill


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PostPosted: July 31, 2014, 10:32 am 
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Well, when you drive it try to quickly get from 2300 to 2900 and then slow to 2500? :)

It looks like the should have the 2500 be 3500 and all the rest bumped up too, at least if the spacing is constant.
2500 > 3500
3100 > 4100
3700 > 4700
4300 > 5300 etc.

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PostPosted: September 26, 2014, 7:21 am 
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Location: Springfield, Illinois
This is a new topic for discussion. I've got a Triumph Spitfire 1.3L engine with Ford EDIS ignition and MS-II v3 running 2.90x firmware and standard B&G code.

I want to install an evaporative emission system to cut down the stink when the car is stored in a closed, attached garage. I need to control the canister purge valve with the MS unit. I plan to do this with one of the spare ports through a relay. The trigger criteria I think I need are coolant temp > 150 and TPS > 40. The evaporative canister and purge valve from a 1994 Ford Escort look like promising parts to incorporate.

My questions are:

Has anyone actually installed an EVAP emission system and controlled it with a megasquirt? How did it work out?

Are the trigger criteria close to what is needed or do they need to be adjusted?

Are there possibly better and/or additional components to install to make this thing work?

Thanks in advance for the help

Bill


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PostPosted: September 26, 2014, 8:52 pm 
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Joined: May 9, 2009, 1:44 pm
Posts: 285
Location: northampton ma
Might be simple, just put a shut off in the tank vent line. Ha ha do remember to open it before driving.
I am sure megasquirt could do it too, need 2 vacuum valves,charcoal canister,mile of hose,sealed filler neck, overpressure valve.
You could buy better gas that smells better!!


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PostPosted: September 27, 2014, 10:07 am 
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Location: England
I like the idea of these mega squiffy gadgets but they scare me to death with the amount of technical knowledge needed to get off base and running. I have used the emerald cams ecu and found it to be cheaper and far more user friendly.http://www.emeraldm3d.com/k6-ecu-info-and-specification
I have run one of these for over ten years now with no issues and any technical help I have ever wanted has been available over the phone.

Bob

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PostPosted: September 27, 2014, 10:21 am 
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Bill, From what I read online (so it must be true) the valve on some purge valves are PWM controlled. If you are already using the built-in PWM output, You could easily get by with an on-off control and an aquarium valve in the purge line to the manifold to control the flow. If you are running speed density, I would think (?) that the MS would just compensate for the controlled "vacuum leak". Make sure you have a one-way vent to allow the tank intake air as you consume fuel.

I have no hands-on knowledge.

A cheaper alternative would be to park the car next to your lawn mower gas containers. That way you wouldn't notice the "added" fuel smell........ Always here to help :cheers:

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PostPosted: September 27, 2014, 5:49 pm 
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Joined: November 21, 2009, 5:56 pm
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Location: Springfield, Illinois
bob wrote:
I have used the emerald cams ecu and found it to be cheaper and far more user friendly.http://www.emeraldm3d.com/k6-ecu-info-and-specification
I have run one of these for over ten years now with no issues and any technical help I have ever wanted has been available over the phone.
Bob


Now you tell me, Bob! Where was this idea all those years ago when I was messing with the megasquirt?? :D

Chuck, I'm hoping that the purge valve will work in an on/of mode. I'm already using PWM to control the IAC. From what I've seen on the internet (as you say, it must be true!) the charcoal canister has a vent to the tank which is open to the atmosphere. The purge valve only is supposed to be open some of the time, like when the engine is warmed up and at partial throttle. There is usually a check valve in the tank vent line, but (i think) its purpose is mainly to keep liquid fuel out of the canister and allow only fuel vapor. There is also a roll-over valve that goes in the tank that appears to have a float of some sort to prevent fuel from overflowing the tank. The one in the tank now, is just a ball in a cage that does nothing to stop fuel overflow.

I know this sort of thing has been done, but it seems only on carbureted engines.

Rad's idea of a shutoff in the fuel vent is not as dumb as it sounds. The Triumph Spitfires apparently used something like this with a solenoid valve connected to an oil pressure switch. Engine oil pressure opened the valve and it closed again when the oil pressure dropped on engine shutdown. If I could find one of those, it might be simple to try. I already have an oil pressure switch installed that is not doing anything...

Bill


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PostPosted: September 27, 2014, 7:14 pm 
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You could probably build one using any oil pressure switch and a solenoid valve from McMaster.

I have a similar set up on the Sprite - an oil pressure switch is tapped into the line that runs to the oil pressure gauge. When there is pressure at the gauge the fuel pump is allowed to turn on. As soon as you lose oil pressure it opens the circuit to the fuel pump relay and the pump turns off. Replace fuel pump relay with solenoid valve and you'd be set.

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PostPosted: October 22, 2014, 5:25 pm 
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Location: Springfield, Illinois
Well, It took a while, but, by George, I think I got it! I have installed the purge valve to be controlled by the Megasquirt. I used one of the spare ports to pull in a relay. (The documentation says the port can handle 0.5 amp and the relay needs 0.16 amp so I should be good there.) The criteria I used were Coolant Temp > 160 AND TPS >25(%). This way the valve opens when the engine is warmed up and accelerating.

So far, I haven't "crossed the street" yet. I've only run up and down in front of the shop until the engine got warm enough to trigger the valve. When it did, the car seemed to run exactly as it did before, with the added air from the purge valve appearing to have no ill effects, at least in this brief test.

I've started another thread in this section showing more of the mechanics of what I ended up doing.

So far, so good! :cheers:

Bill


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PostPosted: August 19, 2015, 8:17 am 
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD
So I'll be running an SR20DET engine and eventually adding in flex fuel support. I'm debating whether I should have a high boost and low boost fuel/ignition map switch or if I should run a secondary 1 bar map for barometric pressure adjustment.

Any thoughts?

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PostPosted: August 19, 2015, 10:17 am 
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Location: Duxbury, MA USA
CodySimonson wrote:
So I'll be running an SR20DET engine and eventually adding in flex fuel support. I'm debating whether I should have a high boost and low boost fuel/ignition map switch or if I should run a secondary 1 bar map for barometric pressure adjustment.

Any thoughts?

So lets see...
you need a second VE table for flex fuel. You will also need second ignition table.
Why not run closed loop on the boost control? I am guessing that you will have a flex fuel sensor? I think all of this can be handled automatically without a manual switch.
I think a little more description of what you are trying to accomplish is in order. I assume you are running MSextra firmware on a MS2 (lots of mods) or higher (MS3 with MS3X expansion...no mods) and Tuner Studio.
Once you have a good description of what you plan to do, post here and over at the MSextra forum. Do you have a username over there?
Also if you buy your system from DIY Autotune, Matt Cramer is a good resource and is responsive.
I have never done flex fuel or a boosted application with MS (I might have to start looking for a supercharger for the SeVen though...my sons says its too slow), but I do have 2 engines running happily on MS and plan to do a 3rd (unless of course I end up running one of Marcus's systems!)

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PostPosted: March 14, 2016, 7:51 pm 
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Joined: November 11, 2013, 4:47 am
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Location: No. Nevada
Seems this is probably the most relevant thread to ask this question?

I have a back-burner ITB/MS project for a Buick 3.8 V6 using one of the rare Inglese - Weber IDA-3 manifolds.
The 3V Webers are now just stupidly expensive.

On another forum it was suggested that I adapt Triumph MC ITB's.
Bought a couple of sets cheap and they can be made to work but are a bit small and have an oval shape at the mounting face end.
Have decided that it is impractical to bore them out as the wall is too thin and the sealing surface would also get very thin.

Now wondering about using BMW ITB's.
Not as cheap but fairly easy to find.
Hoping they might be just a bit larger since they are from a car, 46mm would be perfect.
Anyone know throttle bore size, shape, mounting hole pattern and spread, or anything else useful about them?

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PostPosted: March 14, 2016, 8:05 pm 
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Toyota AE101 ITBs are 42MM and the AE111 are 45MM if this helps any.

Ebay and CLub4AG are the only sources I know of.

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PostPosted: March 14, 2016, 8:56 pm 
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benny_toe wrote:
Toyota AE101 ITBs are 42MM and the AE111 are 45MM if this helps any.

Ebay and CLub4AG are the only sources I know of.


It might, I will look around.

UPDATE: Looked at some pics, seems they are a single cast unit so will not readily convert to other vehicles or bore spacing.
Also a bit more expensive than the BMW units.
I would have to buy two Toyota sets for my V6, with BMW I may get twelve ITB's for one buy. 8)

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PostPosted: March 15, 2016, 12:37 am 
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Whoops!

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