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If you were to build a second car, is there anything that you would do differently that you think that other builders would benefit to learn about. Conversely, is there anything that worked particularly well that you would recommend to others? Please limit this thread to Fuel, Cooling, Exhaust.

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Jerry Henneman

Jack of many trades
Master of unfinished projects
build blog/log at https://jerryslocost.wordpress.com

-consider an OEM fuel bucket install in your tank/cell viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11744 I can explain better if needed. It works very well so far. I would make a drop in flange that the bucket bolts to next time though.
-straight through exhaust is way too loud on a 90° V6. My ears hurt for two days after driving it the first time (and it's not legal at the local races). I'd still like rear-exit tips, but you need to plan the car from day one for that.
-have an easy drain for the cooling system. My radiator is hard/impossible to drain without making a giant mess.
-I bought a SBC header kit, and V6 flanges to do my headers. It was a cheap way to do it, but it wasn't easy to get them all the same length without flattening out some of the curves.
-spend extra time sealing headers when welding. I think I have air-leaks and they are throwing my O2 readings off.

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Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291

When fab'ing your fuel tank you need 3 internal baffles. Because these cars corner so well, and typically auto-x'd, you can easily run into fuel starvation with just one baffle. The other option is a gated fuel pump sump, which I had to retro fit on my single baffled fuel tank. Dave W

Don't try to get fancy with the cooling system. Radiator, two hoses, top hose maybe has a filler neck. Big puller fan and a catch tank for the overflow. Also, the radiator from your donor is going to be suspect.

where would i start:-

well the fuel, if its fuel injected, the original donor pump will not work for very long, the tank should be designed for fuel injection or come from a car with fuel injection prferably with the pump and the regulator in the tank along with the sender, i say this because that means that you only need one line to the engine, remember, the fuel rail really starts at the pump so you can put the regulator anywhere in the line even just after the pump still in the tank, i personally prefer a ford explorer tank from about 93 but with a late model single outlet sender, one end can be cut off these tanks and shortened to fit most locost chassis as the filler, vent and all the connections are within 18" of the other end.

exhaust, side exhaust on street driven locosts get loud very quickly and rear exit is the only way to make it livable, if you can get it past the bell housing, down the tunnel and over the diff then you truly have a good start.

interior should be carefully designed to give enough room for the seats and a little space around them to allow the seat to slide without damaging the upholstery, tunnels get wide easily so keep a check on the space especially in the pedal area.

hood hight and modern overhead cam engines, need i say more, well just a bit, the hood, scuttle and nose hight can get out of proportion if you are not careful.

engines, most inline fours are so big that you could put a V8 in the same space, i know if i did it again i could fit a small ford in the same engine bay as a duratec four.

cooling, well i don't have an electric fan, i am using the viscos fan fitted originally to the duratec but with an aftermarket aluminum radiator and remote header tank with suitable breathers to vent off trapped air.

i know others here will disagree but scrub radius or lack of it is a good thing.

bump steer is anoying and despite comments to the oposite from people who live in places where the roads are so flat and smooth they could be mistaken for canals, driving with bump steer can be like riding a dirt bike.

oversizing the master cylinder or cylinders in my case, i originally installed 1" but soon went down to 3/4", i would even consider trying 5/8" as i have discs all round and pedal travel is not a problem, the pad material as well should be considered as mine cool down on a long drive and must be brought up to temp when needed after about 50 miles on the freeway, mintex 1144 are on my shopping list.

power steering, wow, the difference is amaising, never again will i build a car without adjustable electric power assist, it cost me 300 bucks and worth every penny.

lastly, the headlamp problem, getting them bright enough to see a black bull standing in the road on a section of open range with only the stars to help, fortunately technology has advanced now and the LED's are the answer and you can have the marker and turn lights in the headlamp making packaging simpler.

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