LocostUSA.com

Older GM 1-ton trucks used what looked like muffler pipe, sometimes with bends, and short rubber couplers on each end. Where the engine and radiator don't move a lot in relationship to each other, I like that setup a lot, and have used it on a number of engine swaps.

Sometime in the 1980s a lot of cars started using steel tubes for the heater lines, with short couplers to the heater core. I've done that, too.

It is my firm belief that rubber hoses don't last as long as they used to, and I am committed to using as little rubber as possible.

Another vote for steel piping. It is used extensively in the off road world and can be painted, powder coated, polished or chromed to look really nice. I saw soft copper used on a "mining themed" buggy once. It was fabulous.

Tom

_________________
Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I

Greenline in Calgary sells 90/45 degree blue silicone hose from I believe 3/4"up to larger sizes. A quick phone call to them to ask if they have or can get other degree bends maybe?

Bill.

Well, the whole won't rust thing makes sense.. because rust requires oxygen to form, and since there should be no oxygen in your coolant.. shouldn't be an issue!

_________________
Tucker

I've found that powder coat, unless it's done flawlessly, will have tiny pits in it that can let moisture in. On external parts (stuff that gets wax on it, etc.) that's not a problem. Parts that are relatively inaccessible, though, can have issues. The tiniest pore that lets moisture in will start rust, which spreads like wildfire between the base metal & the powdercoat. I've seen it do this, often, and usually results in the coating separating from the base metal in large sheets, ruining it, while protecting & propagating the rust process beneath it. If anything, I'd maybe try Rhino-Liner or something...

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

"DOM or steel pipe, bent/welded to whatever shape you need, transitioning to at least 3 inches of hose on the ends, more for the end that goes to the core. You can weld tabs to bolt it directly to the engine or use clamps."

I agree with this option except that I use copper plumbing pipe and fittings as it makes it really easy to fabricate a complicated shape with tight radius bends. I braze rather than solder the joints for extra strength. The standard u-shaped copper pipe hangers can be brazed on to make mounting tabs. I've had one of these copper pipes on an old Fiat since the 70's without any issues.

_________________
Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

Silicone hoses are *very* sensitive to clamp type and clamping pressure, and they're notch-sensitive; that is, if you nick one, there's a good chance it will split from there.

If you can keep it from being damaged a silicone hose will last almost forever, but "there ain't no such thing as a free lunch."

+1 on the copper pipe. Its available in chrome plated and stainless as well , you can use the same plumbers type bending equipment to bend it, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15MM-OD-X-12M ... B95uUW456g and https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/15mm ... wgodkW4IJQ , I just use rubber lined P clips on the Copper pipe and solder an olive on the end to form a swage. Just short rubber straights to the waterpump or heater matrix. The same applies for the bigger diameters.

_________________
Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

Yep.. and at a 400F degree cure, it can cause some metallurgical issues or deformities. Lots of things just cannot be powder coated because of that!

Granted I'm doing it for other things as a biz now, but that's why I originally looked into Cerakote.

- It won't hide cracks like powdercoat.

- It's bonded to the material, so it'll never flake off (if done properly).

- You have high and low temp applications along with air dry, so you can coat anything with it and have them all look alike. Think like having your metal frame and plastic mirrors all the same color. Powdercoat can't do that.

- Unlimited color palette . Can't effectively mix powdercoat colors.

- It's much easier to apply. I apply to firearms with a regular airbrush or HVLP gun and both work great. Can tailor detail and not miss spots like Zetec7 mentioned.

- Nothing effects it. Chemically stable. You can abuse the snot out of it and nothing short of physical abuse will hurt it.

CONS:

- It WILL NOT hide surface imperfections. You need a perfect surface to apply to. You can put it over rough things, but you'll get the same look coming out. Serial numbers on firearms remain perfectly legible.

- Air dry takes 5 days to cure. Lots of down time for certain parts.

I am biased, but I like my Cerakote. I know I'll go overboard by the time I'm done, but it'll be a perfectly color matched 7!!

K "koted" S

_________________
Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein

I know that firearms people absolutely swear by Cerakote. People on CGN (Candaian Gun Nutz forum) are constantly having stuff (barrels, frames, knives, etc.) Cerakoted! If it will stand up to the abuse of a .45 1911, it will stand up to anything!

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

Exactly!!!! And now they have Microslick, so you can putnit on wear surfaces!!

Took my Beretta 92S from a sloppy old pistol and made it slide perfectly!! Sold me on it!

KS

_________________
Check out Firearm Finishes & Coating for options to ceramic coat your Locost parts. Hundreds of stock or custom colors including Chrome and Clear Coating options now available! High Temp options for hot bits!! Plastics too!!

Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Robert A. Heinlein

When forming a swage on the copper pipe, I use LockTite to hold the ferrule in place. No solder required.

Bill