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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: "Cooling Bible"
PostPosted: September 11, 2017, 6:14 pm 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
Posts: 1275
Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
I jack up the left side of the car to raise the rad cap on the radiator and fill as far as I can, then put the cap on. When the rad is full I can finish filling the system at the thermostat housing. Once the cap is on, the coolant has to overcome the cap pressure to get out. I have a 16 psi cap on the rad and a 12 psi on the thermostat housing. The overflow line from each goes to the bottom of the overflow bottle, then when the engine cools down it sucks some coolant back into the system.
Kristian

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 Post subject: Re: "Cooling Bible"
PostPosted: September 11, 2017, 6:31 pm 
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Joined: August 8, 2014, 6:08 pm
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Location: Green Bay, WI
Got it. I think I may need one of those remote fill

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 Post subject: Re: "Cooling Bible"
PostPosted: September 12, 2017, 8:28 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1347
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
You do not have to tell me about air locks :BH:
Drill a 1/8" hole in the top edge of the thermostat, to help bleed the air. May have to elevate front.
Add a small fitting at the highest point that allows you to add water & to bleed the system.
I used one the cooling system flush fittings that is splice into the hose.
Run the engine up to temp. Allow it to cool down and draw water back into the system from the recovery tank/bottle. Add coolant to the bottle and repeat.
I have to repeat the process 4 times, and it takes most of a day.
DaveW


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 Post subject: Re: "Cooling Bible"
PostPosted: September 12, 2017, 11:59 am 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
My thermostat housing is an aftermarket one for a small block Chevy. I had to adjust the holes a bit so I could put it on my intake, but it works good.
Attachment:
IMG_20150417_165901.jpg
IMG_20150417_165901.jpg [ 318.95 KiB | Viewed 105 times ]

You can see the T, the 1/4" line, and the expansion bottle behind/below the headers. Once I figured out that I had a bit of air trapped in the radiator and how to get rid of it, I haven't had any cooling issues. My thermostat opens at about 185-190, fan comes on at 195-200, and the car runs between 185-195 on the highway, idles at 205-210 depending on how hot it is outside. I have a crappy parts store universal electric fan set up as a pusher and no ducting of any kind. I'm sure it helps that I'm using a huge radiator though, it's a massively thick Griffin that barely fits in the nose cone, that's why it's tilted as much as it is.
Kristian

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 Post subject: Re: "Cooling Bible"
PostPosted: September 12, 2017, 2:41 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
@turbo_bird
I've got a dumb question, Kristian. I see there is a radiator cap on the thermostat housing on the block itself (never seen that before). That's your low pressure one, right? But, why couldn't you run a "remote fill" from your radiator to somewhere just behind your fiberglass nose cone, so you don't have to jack the car up each time? Wouldn't a high pressure cap on the remote fill do the same thing, except it would be higher than everything else in the cooling system? That way, when you're filling from zero (not when hot, I realize) it would be easier.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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 Post subject: Re: "Cooling Bible"
PostPosted: September 12, 2017, 5:37 pm 
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Joined: August 8, 2014, 6:08 pm
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Location: Green Bay, WI
I took measure off the floor to top of pippin both locations (Why I didn't do this earlier is beyond me. Dumb) My Fill on Rad is 1-1/4" higher than return line. Sure doesn't look it. I think my eyes are going. Along with dealing with piping systems. Which I do every day at work.

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 Post subject: Re: "Cooling Bible"
PostPosted: September 12, 2017, 10:42 pm 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Lonnie-S wrote:
@turbo_bird
I've got a dumb question, Kristian. I see there is a radiator cap on the thermostat housing on the block itself (never seen that before). That's your low pressure one, right? But, why couldn't you run a "remote fill" from your radiator to somewhere just behind your fiberglass nose cone, so you don't have to jack the car up each time? Wouldn't a high pressure cap on the remote fill do the same thing, except it would be higher than everything else in the cooling system? That way, when you're filling from zero (not when hot, I realize) it would be easier.

Cheers,


The reason I have to jack up the side of the car is to get the rad cap on the radiator high enough to get the air out of the radiator. I didn't think through my mounting very well. The radiator being leans back like it is traps air in the top tank. And to get the rad in the nose cone I had to turn it sideways, so the rad cap is on the side of the rad rather than on top. If I ever build another locost, that's one of the things I want to change.
Kristian

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