LocostUSA.com

Why are you worried about the inside of the tank rusting? Weld, paint the outside, and fill. Gas vapor is heavier than air and will displace the oxygen, thus preventing rust. I've had many motorcycles that I can see the inside of the raw carbon steel tanks, and rarely (Only if having sat for years) do I see rust in them.

If you are still worried about rust (Or even pinholes in your welds.) there are various gas tank liners which are basically a chemical resistant epoxy that you pour in and then slosh around your tank until you have full coverage, and pour out the excess.

On my build I'm going to weld up the clean sheet metal, primer the outside, fill and go. Fuel filter will be there if needed.

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Cheers,
Logan

I ran my vent tube up the inside of my roll bar. That solved by leaking vent problem.

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book 4AGE build, Supra W58 transmission, Corolla GTS live axle

Which tank is that?[/quote]

JAZ 8-gal.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jzp-250-008-nf5?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+|+J&utm_term=4581252645114315&utm_content=GSAPI+5cc9f06108d3d[/quote]

Whoa! $219.99! That's cheaper than my cost on that tank. I presume Summit Racing sells a lot more tanks than I do. I'll add a "...but Summit sells these cheaper..." as soon as I connect with somebody with web maintenance skills (hint, hint).

PS: Note that's the version without the anti-slosh foam.

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

Oem steel tanks use plated steel which is why they don't rust as quickly. Because these are not sealed evap systems, humidity in the air condenses on the top of the inside of the tank, which is why it is better to keep tanks full. Also, many of us are forced to use ethanol blends which absorb water from the air in the tank, collecting on the bottom under the fuel. I've had tank sealer kits fail. With the right mix of variables, it can probably be reliable. Aluminum or poly is my preference. A cheap aluminum tank too large could be cut down to fit with less welding and cost than starting from flat sheet.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

FWIW, I have used RedKote in the past. I went there for a few reasons. One is the prep work didn't use a lot of acid-based chemicals. the second is that it is not an epoxy. it can flex as the tank does. and third, it fills fairly large holes (important if your welding isn't perfect). Forth, it is relatively inexpensive compared to other tank sealers. Fifth, it had the lowest number of complaints about film failure. The biggest reason, is that a lot of farmers use it in tractors successfully. I can't say personally how long it will last. I used it on my first rusty Locost tank, a B&S engine on my snowblower and on my newly built Locost tank. I sold that car years ago.

YMMV, but I would use it again if I had a rusty tank.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

My Rhode 15 gallon just arrived, they discounted it to $179 and grabbed it.

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress