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I bought a set of double bearing rear hubs for the Sprite. I'm not comfortable running stock 3/8" studs on the track so I upgraded the car to 7/16".

When I did the stock hubs, I used a 12.2mm (0.480") bit and these lug studs: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-1 ... /overview/

Everything worked fine and I recall it taking a little force on the press to get the studs in. Flash forward to the new double bearing hubs and I can press one of the studs in with my hand and the other seven didn't take much force on the press but they seem to have bit at least somewhat. I haven't tried torquing them yet.

There are one or two studs that are slightly larger and I think I have enough remaining edge distance.
I don't know if I'd trust these for track use and I don't think they're long enough: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-166/overview/
And I'd be getting tight on edge distance with these but they may work: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7702

Any ideas?

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

I've always used a knurl diameter that's 0.010-0.012 larger than the hole. I've also not limited my search to english spec studs. Given you'd like to keep the hole ID less than about 0.58" and that a 1.4" length wasn't enough, here's some for consideration:

Dorman p.n.'s

610-514, 1/2-20, kd-0.555", length-2.31"
610-402, 12x1.25, kd-0.49", length-1.69"
610-312, 12x1.5, kd-0.558", length-1.75"
610-365, 12x1.5, kd-0.528", length-2.03"

I've ordered Dorman from both Summit and O'reilly.
My opinion is that as long as you use wheels that are hub-centric, the Dorman studs are fine for track use.

I would not torque them as you may have trouble removing them without spinning. I also would not install one bigger or different stud due to the effect on balance.

I’d remove all the studs and check all the holes with a dial indicator, then use matching studs that fit the largest hole properly and ream the other holes if necessary. Based on what you’ve stated, I think 610-408 (M12-1.5, 0.4858” & 1.889”) or 610-360 (M12-1.5, 0.4870” & 1.653”) will fit with minimal to no resizing while maximizing length. These are primarily late 80s and 90s Honda applications.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

The front axle has 7/16" studs so I'd rather not mix and match. To further complicate things the Sprite is lug-centric and all of my wheels require mag wheel nuts with a shank (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-7540062/overview/) so my nut selection is limited based on thread size and OD.

Before you posted MV8, I did torque them with the wheel and hub off of the car. All four lugs torqued but the loose one did move some.

I've bit the bullet and ordered another hub. Decided it isn't worth losing a weekend over a stud that breaks loose. I'm thinking about getting a 12mm bit and using it as a starting point. If its too tight I have a new 12.2mm bit sitting in the toolbox (don't ask me why I didn't use it before).

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

I know you’ve ordered another hub, but it is worth mentioning that these m12-1.5 nuts have the same shank od, length, and seat as your 7/16-20 nuts:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-7540041/overview/

These hubs were used but new to you or actually new? I guess you do not have a way to accurately measure the holes. A dial caliper is a great tool to have:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dia1-5-Dial-Cal ... SwJQdW9Ro3

With the new hub and a 12mm bit making a hole slightly larger than 0.472”, I’d consider 610-157 at 0.475”, 2-1/8 long, and 7/16-20.

I assumed my spitfire is hub centric also, but the wheel center hole is thick with a very tight fit to the hub. I have not loosened the lugs to see how tight, but it probably is for safety if a lug lets go rather than centering.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Need open ended nuts to further complicate things.

No they were brand new which makes it even more awesome.

I measured the hole with a set of calipers. I got somewhere between 0.487 and 0.488. Something very odd happened for it to get that far out.

I have some scrap 3/8 plate. I'm going to do a few test holes.

610-157 appears to be slightly larger OD than the ARP ones. Next Summit order I'll get a set and see if I can save the other hub for a spare - thanks.

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

I have cured the problem of loose studs by welding them to the hub. Not a full perimeter weld, but perhaps 25% of the perimeter.
If I ever need to change the studs I can grind the welds off and replace. Done this many times, never had a problem.
As for different size studs affecting balance, It is really a non issue as they are so close to axle centerline.
My $.02 worth.
John

Agreed, though I'd probably just tack them in. Some are clipped on one side to prevent rotation.
Yeah, minimal balance issue.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I agree with tacking them into place. If you use roughly equal-sized tacks on all studs, being that close to the rotational center will mean that balance won't be affected measurably.

To do this, I'd bolt everything up, properly torqued, and then do the tacks. That will ensure that even loose studs are in their proper position when they're tacked into place. As others have said, it would be a simple matter to grind off small tacks for stud removal/replacement.

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

Be careful. There was a famous Country Western singer with the same problem, and he ignored it for years 'cause most of his driving was a straight road through open desert with plenty of run-off area, but when it did eventually fail, it was just before he came to a bridge, and he spun off the road and plummeted into a ravine.

And as he descended, he was heard to sing, "You picked a fine time to leave me, loose wheel."

Thank you, thank you, you've been a great audience.

_________________
Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

<groan!>

What's worse is that he was a harp player, too, and had just come from a gig at a dance place (owned by a friend of his named Stanley Frand), and was lamenting the loss of his favorite instrument, singing "I left my harp...in Stan Frand's disco...."

<double groan?>

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

These hubs just won't play nice. I ended up ordering a replacement for the misdrilled one and got it drilled to the correct size. Figured at this point I was on a down hill slope to the finish - wrong.

After I got the axle apart, I noticed that the area where the seal would now sit had pretty poor surface finish from machining. Nothing a pair of $35 speedi-sleeves won't fix...well until the shoulder snaps off of one before its seated. Now its three $35 speedi-sleeves.

So the sleeves are on - time to install the hubs. Tap the first one in to place and it ends up about 1/8" or so too far out. Hmmm - after some measuring come to find out the 99174 sleeve everyone says to use is for the standard hub. Its too wide to allow double bearing hubs to seat.

I'm hoping I'll get lucky and be able to trim the sleeves with a large pipe cutter. If not it'll be time to order the narrower 99172 sleeves....

On the plus side, I'm finding O'Reilly auto parts to be a surprisingly competent auto parts store. They actually have stuff you need to repair a car (hear that Autozone? Pepboys?)

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

If the pipe cutter doesn't work for you, considering the sleeve is probably stainless, I'd use a drill with an arbor to accept a friction cutter disc. The drill turns much slower than the die grinder for better control but it still cuts. It should work well to trim the excess.

Also, if you find the sleeve needs a deep installation tool, use the same size or next size larger pvc pipe, slot it radially about 3 inches and a 1/2 inch apart, then use a radiator hose clamp to draw the cut end down to the sleeve od.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Finally some good luck - the pipe cutter worked.

Ended up using a piece of 2" diameter exhaust tubing to install it since the installation tool was too short.

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Same here. Works just fine.

Leave room to get a Dremel cut-off disc to the weld if you ever have to change a stripped or broken stud.