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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 14, 2018, 4:28 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
^^^And that, right there, is why I'm using old-fashioned Weber 45DCOE's on my second-millennium engine! :cheers:

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PostPosted: June 14, 2018, 7:10 pm 
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Got the C10 wire tested for continuity.
Test as good so it looks like no 5V from the ECM. :ack:
Ah well, there's $100 that will not get to go into my build. :x

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PostPosted: June 14, 2018, 8:58 pm 
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Well, we will see if the Chevy dealer gave me the correct GM number based on the VIN.
Original label was destroyed by some sort of alarm unit having been glued to it. :roll:
And of course being :chev: the ONLY number was on that paper label.
All the discount parts stores are helpless/useless with the GM number, had to go to NAPA who were actually about $10 less and will have it in the morning.

Makes me more anxious than ever to get the El Camino done and be rid of this truck.

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 12:00 am 
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$90.00 to replace a bit of failed sand (IC's are made of silicon = sand) or foil (Capacitor) in the old ECM but now it runs as well as ever.

Going to put the Miata back together in the morning so that maybe this truck will not have to be driven so much.
Of course the Miata does not fit me so I have to get a real car going ASAP, most likely one of the Alfa Spiders.

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 2:03 am 
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Happy to see the problem is resolved - that's a good thing. I've heard of guys throwing $100's dollars at something instead of spending the time to troubleshoot, no matter what a pain in the a$$ it is to troubleshoot. :cheers:
Myself, I have to prove something has failed before spending $$ replacing needless parts. It's tough but that's the way I was taught, and it's worked for me so far.
That goes against todays thinking of replacing the whole car every 3 years...........

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 2:15 am 
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To celebrate being done with the TBI/ECM PITA I moved my '78 Alfa Spider back into a work on it position.
Going to refit the rebuilt Dellorto's and get it running.
Ran before but the carbs were gummed up from the car sitting a long time.
Should run much better this time around. :)
Oh, and despite not being able to find any numbers on the cams I know they are pretty high-lift as the cam follower bores have been notched for clearance. :D
So if the engine is good I hope to do the body rust repairs and make it a driver.
Not one computer on the entire car!

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 8:26 am 
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Wouldn't any 5v source wired to the sensor do the trick? That would be a lot less than $100. Maybe free.

Bill


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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 9:53 am 
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Success always feels great, especially after a drawn-out, tortuous effort. :cheers:

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 12:46 pm 
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And that was simpler than farting around with carbs plus it's not likely to happen again whereas the carbs require fiddling with over & over again plus don't produce the power band the FI does.

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 3:47 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
And that was simpler than farting around with carbs plus it's not likely to happen again whereas the carbs require fiddling with over & over again plus don't produce the power band the FI does.


I would disagree, just tracking down the correct ECM took longer than fixing a simple 4V carb would have.
As to power, this is a 4.3 V6 with truck cam, if the TBI is making more then the truck would unable to climb a hill at all on a carb.
I don't think of TBI as real fuel injection at all, more like a pressurized controlled leak.
Carb system is simpler and I think better.
If I planned to keep this truck long term it would be converted to carb.
The ECM left my Mom stranded, a carb would have still run even if out of tune.

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 3:50 pm 
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BBlue wrote:
Wouldn't any 5v source wired to the sensor do the trick? That would be a lot less than $100. Maybe free.

Bill


I don't think so, the TPS also uses 5V and shares the source but uses it differently.
ECM seems to be the only 5V source as battery is 12V + -.

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 5:44 pm 
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BBlue wrote:
Wouldn't any 5v source wired to the sensor do the trick? That would be a lot less than $100. Maybe free.

Bill


Typically, a coolant sensor is a thermistor (temperature dependent resistor) , 1 terminal is from the ECU and the other is grounded to the engine block. The ECU has a resistor in series with the output wire internally. It senses the voltage of the resistor/sensor voltage divider at the ECU output terminal and calculates the temperature from that voltage. As the temp goes up, the sensor resistance goes down, lowering the "sensed" voltage. Without the wire connected, the output should (with a working ECU) see ~5V give or take maybe 1 %. Once the wire is connected, the voltage at the ECU terminal drops to some level dependent on the sensor and the temperature.

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