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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: August 10, 2018, 9:50 am 
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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 3:10 pm 
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I am finally getting to making a bonnet. I’ve been too busy on recovery and recently back on the road. So I made a buck and now started to bend it on my tube. How in the heck do you get the spring out of this stuff. 3004 grade Ali. It’s getting their a little bit. I started out concentrating on just one side. I got tired and had to stop.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 5:02 pm 
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My book recommends 3003-H14. You can always anneal the material you have now, though it's a lot of heat to pump into a large sheet.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 5:34 pm 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
I am finally getting to making a bonnet. I’ve been too busy on recovery and recently back on the road. So I made a buck and now started to bend it on my tube. How in the heck do you get the spring out of this stuff.


It's called "spring back". You bend past the desired degree and the metal springs back. Make a wood circle the right od for the radius for the front and back then screw a 2x4 between the circles. The length of the 2x4 should put the circles the same distance apart as they are to each end or you can use more circles for support if you are concerned about buckling.

Bend it around a few degrees past 90 then place it back on the buck to check. You can also use this method to pull down the center more if needed. You might consider adding a few ribs too, once it sits right without applying pressure.

You run into the same issue when bending windscreen frames.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 5:54 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Tundra 7 wrote:
I am finally getting to making a bonnet. I’ve been too busy on recovery and recently back on the road. So I made a buck and now started to bend it on my tube. How in the heck do you get the spring out of this stuff.


It's called "spring back". You bend past the desired degree and the metal springs back. Make a wood circle the right od for the radius for the front and back then screw a 2x4 between the circles. The length of the 2x4 should put the circles the same distance apart as they are to each end or you can use more circles for support if you are concerned about buckling.

Bend it around a few degrees past 90 then place it back on the buck to check. You can also use this method to pull down the center more if needed. You might consider adding a few ribs too, once it sits right without applying pressure.

You run into the same issue when bending windscreen frames.

Thanks a lot. I’ll cut some tomorrow. That’s a great idea. I’ve been bending the crap out of it on the tube and it just springs right back. I didn’t snap an updated pic but both sides are like the right hand side right now.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 7:03 pm 
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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16609&start=375

I use a piece of locost sewer pipe to massage the aluminum, it's about 3/4 way down the build page.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 7:30 pm 
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I used Perry's method also using a 6" PVC pipe that was laying around.

Ed Young -(Lotusracer) had a really neat write up but alas as is Ed, it's long gone.

You didn't mention thickness but I feel that .050 is plenty for a hood. I used .040 that originally was going to be a pattern but that was such a PIA i went with it. A tad flimsy when removing it. Other than that it works good.

Hang in there. You've whipped it at every turn, and very nicely. This too will succumb to your craftsmanship.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 7:56 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16609&start=375

I use a piece of locost sewer pipe to massage the aluminum, it's about 3/4 way down the build page.

I’ve seen you work about the metal. I have 6” stainless pipe that I had going today and I had better luck with the 3” tube. But now the damn spring just isn’t going away. I don’t know how you do it. Wood circles tomorrow.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 11:23 pm 
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Either start with the correct alloy, or anneal it. If you keep working the material, it may have to be annealed regardless.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 2:33 am 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
I am finally getting to making a bonnet. I’ve been too busy on recovery and recently back on the road. So I made a buck and now started to bend it on my tube. How in the heck do you get the spring out of this stuff. 3004 grade Ali. It’s getting their a little bit. I started out concentrating on just one side. I got tired and had to stop.


I also plan on making a hood. Very interesting that you will succeed.

P.S. Good luck))

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Last edited by marafonets on September 8, 2018, 4:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 3:41 am 
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This helps a lot - aluminum lubrication :cheers:


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Perry

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"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 4:16 am 
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Come to think about it, I had help too. Didn't come from a sedative but another pair of hands. The sedation came after. And was needed. Not sure I could have done it without the extra hands.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 5:35 am 
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Easier way, though holding the outer boards during setup is awkward. Screw straps (cut from old blue jeans?) with 1/2" deck screws to the lower boards then screw those straps to the upper boards already clamped in place. Good ratchet strap sets can be found at home depot or lowes along with the threaded rod described below.

If the overhang of the skin over the buck is a lot, add a 2x4 to the end of the buck then add the angle iron to the 2x4. You can also drill the angle iron and use a long threaded 1/2" rod instead of clamps, plus the rod can't slip like a c clamp can.

If you bend it a little too far, it is easier to spread it than it was to bend it.

I thought it was a typo about 3004, thinking it was 3003 but either is fine. 3004 may have a harder heat treatment. You can anneal the bend area but it would take a long time with a bottle torch but safe. A rose bud on oxy actylene is highly effective but can quickly ruin a panel without experience.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 8:13 am 
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I made my hood buck using 6" Dia. pvc tube, and did not put end plates on the buck. This allowed bending the aluminum over center around the bottom of the tube. I drill access holes on the outside of the pvc tube OD, then screwed thru the ID tube wall into the wood buck structure to hold everything in place. As usual it took 3 times longer to make the buck, Vs making the hood!
I would also suggest that you make the hood slightly longer on both the sides and length, then trim to fit the car. I had enough material on the sides that it allowed me to put a small sub flange on the sides to strengthen the hood.
DaveW


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 9:16 am 
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horchoha wrote:
This helps a lot - aluminum lubrication :cheers:

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