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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 7, 2018, 4:04 pm 
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That looks like one of the old "tune-up" dynos, like my old Clayton. The horsepower figure isn't really anything in particular. They were to let the operator load the engine for checking part-throttle spark advance, EGR operation, accelerator pump function, shift points, etc. Better-instrumented systems came out in the late '70s, used by states with "motored" smog checks, before everything went EFI. Lots of those got dumped on the market cheap in the early '90s.

The rollers on that kind of dyno are either smooth or lightly knurled, and small in diameter, and generally won't handle more than 200hp before the tires will spin. The water brake is sized to match.

Still pretty good for finding driveability problems and setting up low speed operation on carbs and ECMs, transmission problems, and breaking in new engines, but they're not Dynojets.


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PostPosted: March 7, 2018, 4:37 pm 
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TRX wrote:
That looks like one of the old "tune-up" dynos, like my old Clayton. The horsepower figure isn't really anything in particular. They were to let the operator load the engine for checking part-throttle spark advance, EGR operation, accelerator pump function, shift points, etc. Better-instrumented systems came out in the late '70s, used by states with "motored" smog checks, before everything went EFI. Lots of those got dumped on the market cheap in the early '90s.

The rollers on that kind of dyno are either smooth or lightly knurled, and small in diameter, and generally won't handle more than 200hp before the tires will spin. The water brake is sized to match.

Still pretty good for finding driveability problems and setting up low speed operation on carbs and ECMs, transmission problems, and breaking in new engines, but they're not Dynojets.



Not sure if it is one, but the printout says Dynojet, and there is a Dynojet banner on the wall. I would guess dynojet made that Dyno.


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PostPosted: March 7, 2018, 4:39 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
Looking at the

RunFile_012.drf
RunFile_001.drf


notation on the print out, if 001 was your first run and 012 was your last, I'd say you got your moneys worth with a 96 HP gain for run 012 versus 001. Is that what it means?

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Carburetors were before his time, he says. Whipper-snapper.


You got it! Apparently you can’t just pull a carb out of a box and expect it to work... strange haha


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PostPosted: March 7, 2018, 4:42 pm 
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Yeah, it was a wad Dynojet they bought in like 2005


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PostPosted: March 11, 2018, 5:04 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
Really? That much more torque than hp? That's odd for a gas engine.


Torque measured in lbft is always 2x (ie twice) the hp at 2626 rpm and mathematically/linearly reaches equal at 5252.


One application:
If you add a 125 shot of nitrous and don't limit the cut in RPM, you have 250lb ft extra at 2626rpm. For a very brief time. ;)


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PostPosted: March 12, 2018, 5:39 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
Really? That much more torque than hp? That's odd for a gas engine.


That's incredibly typical for a stock, old V8. It's not that old V8s couldn't or can't be designed for more power, it's that the designers were going for a specific character and performance, and that's what they got.

However, the 351C 4V has some big ol' heads that, up until the proliferation of aftermarket aluminum heads in the late '90s for the Windsor engines, made the 4V Cleveland a very desirable engine.

Although I'd expect a stock 351C 4V to be more in the 260ish whp range.

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PostPosted: March 12, 2018, 10:21 pm 
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Laminar wrote:
carguy123 wrote:
Although I'd expect a stock 351C 4V to be more in the 260ish whp range.


Yeah me too. I got the engine from my father in law. He had the thing rebuilt way back when with 8:1 comp pistons probably for some kind of forced induction or nitrous. I think the drop in compression hurts me power wise. Also who knows the real condition of the valve seals and rings.


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PostPosted: March 13, 2018, 9:30 am 
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Either way I bet it's a blast, and if you ever get bored of almost dying every day, it's sure easy to pump that thing up. :twisted:

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PostPosted: September 14, 2018, 12:18 am 
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Ended up ditching the S10 rotors and calipers and threw on some C5 corvette rotors and calipers. Fills up the wheels a lot better.


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PostPosted: September 14, 2018, 11:59 am 
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It's great that they fit your S10 spindles. How's that for a happy coincidence?

Watch out for going "over the handle bars" if the rear brakes don't engage first. :mrgreen:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: September 14, 2018, 1:34 pm 
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Stock comp for 73-74 is 8:1 due to open chamber heads, though I don't know if they are as open as the 2v heads.

Unless you can find the closed chamber 4v heads, consider swapping the pistons for aftermarket popups; hypereutectic with molly skirts and just scuff the bores for 9:1 or slightly higher to run premium.

Hopefully you have a divided plenum intake and vac secondary 650 with a cam with a range from 1800-5500 or so for best drive ability with those massive ports that kill bottom end perf. The 2v head motors were known to run better overall for street use.

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PostPosted: September 14, 2018, 9:38 pm 
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Fills up the wheels a lot better.
I'll say they do!!! Looks like a pizza pan inside the wheel! :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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