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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 19, 2019, 7:56 am 
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Location: Delaware
rx7locost wrote:
Looking again at your exhaust hangers, the forward one is mounted 90 degrees from its ideal orientation It should be in compression. Those rubber mounts don't do well mounted in shear. You can already see it sagging. I'd suggest you bring along some muffler wire for the eventual on the side of the road fix.

I used a different system with only 1 hanger. It worked well once I had the final design worked out. I was surprised to find out just how much force is put on the muffler hangers. Maybe 6-800 miles was the limit on my 1st design before I needed the wire, Then redesigned and ran another 5,000+ without problems.


The hanger material itself is actually concave a bit which is why it looks stressed but really the T clamp is completely supporting the front section of the exhaust. But I completely agree on the shear issue. My thinking on turning it sideways was to provide a bit of support but not so much that the hanger tries to crack the headers then wait and see how much deflection I am actually getting from a running engine and go from there.


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PostPosted: March 22, 2019, 1:09 pm 
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Test fitting the roll bar. It's about 3" above the helmet which should work. Legs are 8 deg off vertical towards the center and the hoop itself is 10 deg forward to line up vertically with the top of the rear bulkhead. Will add a harness bar and two back stays. Maybe I'll get to take the sticker off the helmet visor one day. If anyone needs it, I have my first roll bar attempt which is far too wide at the feet (about 48") and 20" tall you can have. Bends are nice and there's no twist, was good practice to get it wrong though.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2019, 12:33 pm 
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You did all the right things on the roll bar from what I can find.

I'm going to have someone bend the roll bar on mine. I don't have the gear for doing it. However, I'm at the point where I'm need to provide the infrastructure for it in the chassis. I found a pretty clear set of rules in the online SCCA SOLO manuals. I was mostly concerned with how thick the mounting plates should be, what diameter & tubing wall thickness to use, etc., etc. It was all there.

Anyway, your build is looking good.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: March 23, 2019, 3:55 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
You did all the right things on the roll bar from what I can find.

I'm going to have someone bend the roll bar on mine. I don't have the gear for doing it. However, I'm at the point where I'm need to provide the infrastructure for it in the chassis. I found a pretty clear set of rules in the online SCCA SOLO manuals. I was mostly concerned with how thick the mounting plates should be, what diameter & tubing wall thickness to use, etc., etc. It was all there.

Anyway, your build is looking good.

Cheers,


Thanks. Just based on the mention of the Solo rules I decided to go re-read them. Having a stage rally background I usually just think FIA Appendix J Art 253 specs and move on but there is a minor difference in the mounting feet requirements. FIA says 3mm thick 120cm^2 but SCCA is 3/16in thick for bolt ins but no area listed. Since I have some 3/16" plate on hand I'm going to adjust my plan a bit. Thanks.


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PostPosted: March 24, 2019, 9:38 pm 
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If you're sure all you ever want to do is SOLO, then you're looking at the right rule set. If you might want to do track events or wheel-to-wheel stuff, it would be wise to check the General Competition Rules, also online at SCCA's website. There's more info there, and some differences in requirements. Worth a look, if you might move up from SOLO with this car.

:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: March 25, 2019, 9:04 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
If you're sure all you ever want to do is SOLO, then you're looking at the right rule set. If you might want to do track events or wheel-to-wheel stuff, it would be wise to check the General Competition Rules, also online at SCCA's website. There's more info there, and some differences in requirements. Worth a look, if you might move up from SOLO with this car.

:cheers:
JDK


Looks like I should also add a diagonal in the main hoop for NASA and SCCA HPDE type of events. The harness bar is only tacked in atm so out with the cutting wheel. If I ever go wheel to wheel I'll fab up a full cage.


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PostPosted: March 26, 2019, 9:29 pm 
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Going with this for a bit, can always ad a diagonal as I'm not sure what track stuff I have in the future atm. I'm sure I'll change my mind by the weekend and add a diagonal.

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PostPosted: April 14, 2019, 10:22 am 
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Spring has brought some decent weather so far, it's been warm enough and not too humid to get a bunch of stuff painted. Suspension parts are mostly Krylon rust tough enamel and the frame is vht chassis paint. Got the frame off the table and started skinning. The front suspension area needs a better template. I've got a 4x10' .040 3003 sheet and a 33"x10' .040 3003 sheet that I am pretty sure I can all the outer parts from. Wasn't planning on using 10' sheets but they were out of 8' when I finally showed up and moving it was easy as we had a uhaul around for the weekend for other reasons and I took advantage of that.

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PostPosted: April 15, 2019, 8:09 am 
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First panel in. I used the walking cleco technique where you only drill out 1 or 2 steps ahead vs drilling everything and holding it down. Horizontal rivets are all countersunk, verticals are not just because I couldn't get the counter sink in and the bottom is epoxied with Loctite Hysol 907. Rivets are closed end in 5/32 from Bay Supply.

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PostPosted: April 15, 2019, 11:24 am 
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Looks nice. What tooling did you use to make the countersunk rivet holes in the sheet and tubing?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: April 15, 2019, 11:44 am 
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I am using surplus zephyr zt680 microstops with the correct angle cutters from wherever I can get them at a reasonable price. More tools at the ready for this process than I usually need: drill, cleco, counter sink, rivet and a large assortment of measuring and marking implements. Once you get into a groove it goes pretty quick. Fingers crossed on the 907 epoxy, I just couldn't get a rivet in there square. Trans tunnel sides go on next. Tunnel top will go on with m5 rivnuts. Using cherrymax rivets (also surplus) for the floor.


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PostPosted: April 20, 2019, 11:18 am 
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Excited that my shocks showed up in the mail today: Gaz Gold Pro 14 in open 9.5in closed GAZ140/095R12-GGA. They weight 2.3lbs each.

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PostPosted: May 1, 2019, 7:33 am 
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Been plugging away at body panels. Transmission sides and passenger floor are done. Started fitting the drivers outer panel. Need to flip the frame back over and install the battery tray and some nutserts before the passenger outer goes on but I also still need to cut it out for fitting. Need to seam seal the floor panels before putting the sides on. I attached the outer floors with a countersunk rivet every 10 in or so, the side panel will be attached through the floor and frame every 2" with the countersunk rivet being hidden underneath.

Had been using a handheld jig saw for the thicker .090" panels but switched to a cutting wheel on the angle grinder for the .040" stuff. Both seem to work fine but between cutting panels out and drilling holes and spent mandrels it's a constant clean up process.

Since all the major components have been dry fit before I figured putting the sides on now would force me to install from the top or bottom and not put a fastener where I can't get to it with the sides on. Downside is I might have reduced drill clearance sometimes.

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PostPosted: May 1, 2019, 3:12 pm 
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I've seen that inward bend up front on a UK Haynes Roadster. I think it looks good. I'll be anxious to see yours when finished. I'm thinking of doing the same.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 14, 2019, 7:43 am 
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Drivers side panel is on and done. Could have done a bit better with cutting reliefs in the round arch part but it's passable and I'll do a better job on the passenger side. Here's a pict of wrapping N1. Also made a home for a PC-680 size battery before the passenger side panel goes on. I had one of these batteries in the rally car they have a great shelf life as long as they are completely disconnected. If you have a trickle of any sort they won't last long. And yes, the headers prevent the battery from being installed and removed from the top, only way out is the bottom.

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