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PostPosted: April 5, 2020, 5:09 pm 
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Looks like you're doing a reasonable job of it. Good luck pressing it in straight.

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PostPosted: April 5, 2020, 10:14 pm 
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Thanks, I'm going to need it. :cheers:

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1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: April 6, 2020, 7:36 am 
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Just need a HBF floor press, remove the joints so you have the center of the yokes to press against. Due to the length of engagement, it will keep itself straight if you press in the center. Compared to weld yokes for steel tube, the press yoke has much deeper engagement to keep it straight and greater bite area through the serrations.

If you can't find joints designed to fit the stock yokes, you will need new yokes as well for the cf tube so don't cut anything. If you find it, you will need to cut out a long enough middle section. If you need the press yokes, you will probably need flange and slip as well. For all that trouble, you might as well use a steel tube assembly.

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PostPosted: April 6, 2020, 3:53 pm 
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Okay, so it took a considerable amount of pressure, well more then expected. But it is pressed in straight. I sealed the edge to prevent water from entering, everything is lined up and it seems very good. Won't really know till the car is driving but I think this is worth the effort and try.


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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: April 6, 2020, 4:01 pm 
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NCLBNY wrote:
Okay, so it took a considerable amount of pressure, well more then expected. But it is pressed in straight. I sealed the edge to prevent water from entering, everything is lined up and it seems very good. Won't really know till the car is driving but I think this is worth the effort and try.


Oh, looks like you made it too short! :mrgreen: :lol: :mrgreen:

How much pressure, did you use a press with a gauge or just a floor jack?

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PostPosted: April 6, 2020, 4:15 pm 
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This is very interesting, I have a Zetec with an RX8 gearbox hanging off it, and an RX8 CF driveshaft. I'm eager to see if it works out for you (once the car is on the road), as it would save a bunch of time and money for my future build.


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PostPosted: April 6, 2020, 4:25 pm 
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Fingers crossed! No slicks please.

I hope you pressed the bearing caps and not through the needles.

Those joints should press out easily if you heat the wax a little. It is just a question of fitting retaining clips; at least it is on older miatas.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 6, 2020, 5:00 pm 
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It is the perfect length, the lines from the seal on the slip yoke line up perfectly as they were in the RX8 it came from. I did press on the caps on the yoke side, on the diff side I did not have a choice, the Ujoints in an RX8 are non serviceable. They all still rotate very smooth, I really can not feel a difference.

My biggest concern is that it is completely possible that Mazda has a change in the CF weave where these press in at the factory, and by cutting it that re enforcement is lost. If this is the case I'm hoping the 2000lb lighter car makes up for it. I cut a cross section of the extra tube and I can see a change in pattern but not thickness. So fingers crossed.

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: April 7, 2020, 12:23 pm 
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This is very exciting news!

:cheers:

Now we need to find an easy way to balance with fiberglass tape, aluminum/steel washers, and epoxy resin...


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PostPosted: April 7, 2020, 8:36 pm 
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My guess, and it is only a guess. is that the layers alternate throughout the entire tube. This is where the torsional strength would come from. And I would also guess that it would cost too much to mass produce a shaft that is that tailored.

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PostPosted: April 8, 2020, 9:32 am 
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Mnot wrote:
My guess, and it is only a guess. is that the layers alternate throughout the entire tube. This is where the torsional strength would come from. And I would also guess that it would cost too much to mass produce a shaft that is that tailored.



I like this answer! I hope your guess is true.

I am going to trust it. Moving on to cooling and exhaust.

Cooling, I am going to run the RX8 dual oil coolers, and as mentioned probably a dual core civic half rad, though I have also found a DNA 3 core rad for a 1966 mustang may fit I'll have to re measure. Should I put the oil coolers out front, or run them between the front subframe and the engine. The Rotary makes a lot of heat and cooling is a concern to me. From past Rotary cars I have had it is the exhaust gas temps that get stupid hot but if I can keep the whole engine cooler this will help for sure.

For my exhaust, my plan was a temporary fix to keep budget in mind so compromises are being done. The RX8 has a heavy stock header/manifold (something I haven't shared is this build has been planned for eventually swapping the renesis out for a K24/K20 as adaptors are made to bolt that to the RX8 drivetrain). It is not cast so it is weldable, I was going to cut it and turn the pipe 90 degrees and have it exit straight out. This won't have the cleanest flow, for the front rotor, but the rear rotor then gets a straight shot out. I have cut the factory manifold already and to my surprise Mazda has a dual layer manifold (no wonder it is so heavy!) This makes me welding it as planned much more difficult. The inner layer is not air tight to the outer layer and fits in there kinda loosely (my guess is this is done for emmisions as the secondary air pump would pump air to this outer layer that does not fully join the manifold till after the first o2 sensor). So I am hoping I can get the inner layer tacked all in place then fully weld the outer layer still. If this does not work, I will cut the manifold just outside the flange and make a full custom header. Plan A is free, plan B is just some header tube(I hope).


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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: April 8, 2020, 11:23 am 
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Quote:
K24/K20 as adaptors are made to bolt that to the RX8 drivetrain


I'm sure you already know this, but there's a guy in Wales that makes various adapter plates for the RX8 gearbox. John Hughes is his name and he trades on Fleabay as freddy686868. I bought a Zetec plate from him.


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PostPosted: April 8, 2020, 11:52 am 
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cs3tcr wrote:
Quote:
K24/K20 as adaptors are made to bolt that to the RX8 drivetrain


I'm sure you already know this, but there's a guy in Wales that makes various adapter plates for the RX8 gearbox. John Hughes is his name and he trades on Fleabay as freddy686868. I bought a Zetec plate from him.



This I do know. With flywheel and such things it gets pricey so that is down the road. The renesis will blow.... They ALL do but until then I will enjoy the Rotary, I just have a plan for when it does.

Also I have been thinking this morning and I am leaning towards the Rad up front so it leaves more room in the engine bay when I do get to this point as the K24 won't need the same oil coolers the Renesis does. The easier the swap is the more likely I'll do it and not put another time bomb in the car as I currently am. Lol

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: April 8, 2020, 11:55 am 
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Three and four row civic radiators are available too. The greatest temp differential is between the oil temp and ambient and the oil flows into the hottest areas so the oil cooler should be upfront. It will preheat the coolant rad air but it should net more effective cooling overall.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 8, 2020, 12:06 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Three and four row civic radiators are available too. The greatest temp differential is between the oil temp and ambient and the oil flows into the hottest areas so the oil cooler should be upfront. It will preheat the coolant rad air but it should net more effective cooling overall.



Thanks MV8, you always have great knowledge to share. I will look at things today hopefully, with two young kids I never really know my day has in-store though.

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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