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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 22, 2020, 6:47 am 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Use the saw's angle adjustment for the big angle and then lift the metal up or down using a digital angle finder for the smaller one. That is how I did my compound cuts.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


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PostPosted: May 22, 2020, 3:16 pm 
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Mnot wrote:
Use the saw's angle adjustment for the big angle and then lift the metal up or down using a digital angle finder for the smaller one. That is how I did my compound cuts.


Thanks Gavin I was thinking that but in the picture I posted, there are 3 angles on the right side. 17, 27, and 52.

There's only 1 angle on the left side which is 52.

Am I understanding this diagram correctly?

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PostPosted: May 22, 2020, 10:08 pm 
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Joined: August 2, 2009, 3:34 pm
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Location: Alberta
That is a terrible diagram.

I'm not sure it's correct either....

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PostPosted: May 23, 2020, 7:48 am 
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I can't figure that one out. Perhaps there is a set of instructions explaining it? SB5 & 6 are the seat back\bulkhead rails correct?

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PostPosted: May 23, 2020, 3:53 pm 
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Mnot wrote:
I can't figure that one out. Perhaps there is a set of instructions explaining it? SB5 & 6 are the seat back\bulkhead rails correct?

Yeah its the seat back diagonals. Unfortunately they dont have any instructions other than the diagram. It's in the Chris Gibbs book as well as the Saturn mods plans.

I guess I'll have to do this one by hand

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PostPosted: May 23, 2020, 8:19 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
Over complicating it due to poor diagrams. These are single angles that fit between SB2 and SB3. When you get to this stage it will become apparent. I think Champion and McSorley show this.


I'm just a long time programmer that had KISS methodology drilled into me. (Keep It Simple, Stupid.)

YMMV

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PostPosted: May 26, 2020, 1:18 am 
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I've been practicing welding on some scrap metal. It's been over 2 years since I touched my welder so decided to take a few hours to get back into it.

Anyone else using a stick welder, 1/16" 6013 rod with electrode negative is the way to go.

Able to run a bead and a full line without stopping and without burning through with excellent penetration on 16ga.

Also I've been practicing cutting things with my band saw, drill press, etc. and got the settings down. Lastly, canopy was erected so everything is fully sheltered and covered and I'm good to go.

This week I'm going to fabricate the rear UCAs with a hinge.

Also decided to mount the coilover from the rear UCA to the shock tower like how it's supposed to be done.

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PostPosted: May 27, 2020, 3:07 am 
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Working on the rear UCAs and rear coilover mounts.

Out of curiousity, do you guys know what the pros/cons are between the #1 and #2 type of mounts below? For coilover shock mounting

Image
Image

The first one has a welded step bushing while the second are just ears that I will have to adjust the width.

All the control arms on the frame are run with #2 with two spacers one each side of the heim joint. However, the front shock mounts are run with #1 style.

Curious to see if using the #2 ear style on top of 1/8" plate on the control arms to hold the shocks are any different functionally than using the coilover mounts with the weld-in bushing.

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PostPosted: May 27, 2020, 6:43 am 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
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Location: Delaware
I used weld in U-brackets from https://www.aa-mfg.com/ that do not have the bushing. Using a u-bracket the bolt holes will be lined up but you'll loose some mounting flexibility if the frame behind the mount is at an angle. Since the tabs hang off smaller tubes I think the u-brackets are a better choice since the outward facing tabs are supported by the bracket itself and you have a lot more surface area to weld to. If you were using larger tubes for the frame where the brackets can mount completely to the frame the individual tabs might work just as well.


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PostPosted: May 27, 2020, 2:55 pm 
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hfmaxi wrote:
I used weld in U-brackets from https://www.aa-mfg.com/ that do not have the bushing. Using a u-bracket the bolt holes will be lined up but you'll loose some mounting flexibility if the frame behind the mount is at an angle. Since the tabs hang off smaller tubes I think the u-brackets are a better choice since the outward facing tabs are supported by the bracket itself and you have a lot more surface area to weld to. If you were using larger tubes for the frame where the brackets can mount completely to the frame the individual tabs might work just as well.


Thanks, I found these: https://www.aa-mfg.com/product/coil-ove ... -1-2-hole/

To clarify, The only remaining mounts I have are the rear shock mounts. They would go 1 up top under the shock tower, and 1 on top of the rear UCA on flat 1/8" plate so in terms of surface area, it's pretty big and straight. I was just curious if shocks were subject to some major lateral twisting or movement that a 1 piece u-bracket would have better strength for as opposed to two vertical ears.

I would order those from them but I already have the ears and a drill press so might just use the ears

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